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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 24, 2009 - 05:41am PT
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One obvious one (from looking at a few videos of it) seems like you could omit the famed mantel , and just dyno (from same holds) to the last hold perse . Posative hands and feet to go from no ? In the light of modern bouldering - the mantel there seems a bit out-of-place . (A vid for reference) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6fo0f9MgoY
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 06:03am PT
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I think the mantel would be easier because a dyno from that stance would be weird as you need to kick with your feet to get power and it just looks like from that stance that would be very hard to do. Also it would have to go over the mantel and forward some so it would just be a really awkward move in general.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 06:07am PT
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Agreed : It's more "3D" with angles etc . Just seems like some freak could throw to that solution .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 24, 2009 - 09:07am PT
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The eliminate that works best for me, is to avoid it altogether...
A while back, I was at the base with a trusted friend. a woman whose quirky evaluations of things I tend to listen to.
We had found ourselves at the base spotting a spaniard. he was on a second lap, climbing for his droog's camera. He looked solid, but the first lap had taken something out of him.
He did it and it was cool!
I bouldered a bit on it a bit, as I had over the years, and as always the holds felt pretty good, it was 'just' the comittment....I lept backing off when I got scared...
"You know, you could do this" my friend stated, flatly.
I knew she was right, I knew that if I could will myself to do it and overcome my generation's preconcieved awe of this problem (as well as hone the demanding moves) it kind of suits me (or did, then)
I never, so far, got back to it.
Still active, 14yrs later, maybe lose a few more pounds and see if I can get it by my 55th or 60th birthday....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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Bouldering, where every fall is a deck fall.
Would you be ashamed to TR it Jaybro, just cause bone of our age are brittle?! Just to feel the moves after all this time?
Peace
Karl
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:06am PT
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lynn hill did it on a tr first. no shame in it...'specially for some worn out old dad in his fitties.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:11am PT
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If it was anything else I wouldn't think twice Karl (I TRed the Thimble) as it is, I guess I'll get high enough to get into trouble, and go from there...
I get yer guys point, still... i'll wait till it's an issue.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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Is Midnight Lightning considered more difficult and committing than the Gill problem on the Thimble ?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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I have a Cordless Big Bro crash pad that I haul around in the back of my van and sleep on it. It is basically intended for indoor use as it is 5' x 8' and a foot thick, doesn't fold. But man it would be the ticket for working Midnight Lightning as you can deck from 15-20' and be ok, although you might get the wind knocked out of you. It has handles on it to carry like a mattress.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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ML is definately harder from a technical difficulty standpoint. i've heard ML called V8 and the thimble called V4. not sure how accurate those grades are.
and lots of folks have fallen repeatedly from high on ML with no ill effects, although there have been some real slappers and a broken bone or two. a fall from the top of of the thimble would be sort of a whistler...potential bone breaker. although with enough pads you can really take the sting out of both of 'em.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
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Thanks, BVB.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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I don't think I'll ever get on it, to quote a good friend "I'M NOT A BOUDERER!"
But one thing I always liked when I did work a boulder problem was the up and down of it, working it out and letting the realization of the possible emerge out of the swamps of chaotic anxiety; the crystalline beauty of the moves, and the suppression of doubt as you execute those moves.
I don't get that on top rope; nevertheless, Karl's got a good point about old bones....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
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What BVB said, ,Jennie. the Thimble is a Lot easier, really cool, though. Also not conspicuous the way ML is.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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I've been on the ground below both and the Thimble seemed more intimidating to me. ML looked "grippy-er" but things are subjective standing on the floor.
But the ML mantel looks like a rad triceps strength move. (??)
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apogee
climber
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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"a fall from the top of of the thimble would be sort of a whistler...potential bone breaker."
esp. with the metal hand rail that used to be at the base- that was the real crux.
Gill is truly a visionary.
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 24, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
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It's all fun till some old guy pokes his eye out and then cries.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Dec 24, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
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I'd have absolutely no problem with putting a TR on ML. Chances are that anyone giving you sh#t for doing so, probably can't do the thing anyway.
Curt
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