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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
JimmyRay
climber
Texas
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 27, 2005 - 01:10pm PT
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Okay... fully aware that this is a "small", or trivial request for beta, in a very "Big" ditch... but I'm curious... it seems that recently, I didn't take quite enough of a "step right" in the mid section of Black is Brown, and basically went directly up the crack system... which, expecting something 5.8-ish... sandbagged the hell out of me... and actually made me work to save face... if that's even possible. I'm really not a ratings guy, just self-depreciatingly curious... what do locals rate that variation?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 27, 2005 - 01:26pm PT
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Hmmm,
*I* thought it was 5.9, but dingus's dentist (tough guy that he is, until I wipe that smile off his face!!!!!) gave it a 5.6+ sandbag.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 27, 2005 - 01:38pm PT
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Don't listen to these guys.
The actual route is a significant step left and over, then up some mantle moves and eventually back to the crack. Who knows how hard going up directy is? You do, tell us what you would rate it.
Peace
Karl
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Sep 27, 2005 - 02:23pm PT
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Funny -- my buddy did the same thing a couple of years ago. He was up there shaking and shouting "5.8 my ass!". He sent it, though. I think he felt like it was at least a 5.10.
Ed
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Sep 27, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
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I did the same thing with my bro adam. I ended up down-sketching it, then rapping off that fixed bong...
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B
Trad climber
SF CA
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Sep 27, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
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All I know I had the worst partner experience of my life years ago on this short route. It is about 1997 the guy racks up like he is about to climb the nose (yes including jumars and aiders)and proceeds to aid the crack you mention.
I was still fairly new to climbing in general (one guided experience up a multipitch back east and seconding a bunch in the valley up easy stuff only a few times a year). Not yet leading and I had no aiding experience and no ascenders. So after free climbing up to the first aid placement I couldn't get the gear out because he had sewn up all the places to put my hands in the crack with gear.
I eventually stuggled up the crack after dropping a camalot into a tree, dropping his cam kind of pleased me though.
At the top he dropped his helmet off the cliff, so I yelled down to another group to ask if there was a walk off....and walked off instead of rapping off his anchor. The trust was gone.
I didn't know a lot then but I learned a lot that day. Scared the sh#t out of me too that day. Decided to learn all I could so I would not fall victim to my own ignorance and other's stupidity again.
Now I even size up a new partner (or the group ahead of me) even scrutinize their gear for any signs of stupidity.
Like two guys with all the "new" cams (max cams etc), a huge rack and gri-gris for belaying, starting up corrugation corner....
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Dingo
Boulder climber
Fresno California
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Sep 27, 2005 - 03:34pm PT
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I'm right up front with my ignorance, want to climb with me?
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e$
Mountain climber
jackson, wy
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Sep 28, 2005 - 12:42am PT
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I climbed this route a few weeks back with my girlfriend belaying me. I took the step right but immediately returned to the crack (that is, without going up). It was stout -- probably a few moves of 10ish climbing, but well-protected. I kept thinking, "Why am I getting so worked on a short 5.8??? I am *weak*!"
Well, I am weak and I got worked on a short 10 section that day.
A bear harassed my girlfriend and came within 10 feet of her while I was climbing the crux.
Good route; more than a little dirty.
-e
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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