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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Sounds like he could use some supertopian good vibes sent his way. Hoping for the best...
"Newsflash: Tomaz Humar reportedly injured on Langtang Lirung's north face"
"Tomaz is stuck on Langtang Lirung's north face, somewhere near 6,300m,"
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18864
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 11, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
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hey there say, yep, we will all step in to pray and such... thanks for letting us know...
oh my...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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Well, I am now praying. I ask God to help him mentally, physically, psychologically and spiritually .... he is in one tough spot. Peace, lynne
Edit: prayers for loved ones also, both family and friends.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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It sounds hopeful actually. Langtang Valley where he's stuck, is just north of Kathmandu. It should be easy for rescue teams, including helicopters to reach. The other thing to his advantage is that he's only at 6,300 meters or a little over 20,000 feet, so there are no major oxygen problems. The permanent glacier line only starts about 18,000 feet in the Himalayas. Depending on how severely injured his leg is (blood clots etc) he has a very good chance.
In this year of tragedy, let us hope for the best with many good wishes sent his way.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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That's good to hear. He's a great guy. He has the most memorable handshake of anyone I've encountered.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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Jan, thanks for all the information. Peace, lynne
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Hoping for the best, he sure pushes the envelope pretty hard. I hope he's getting ready to tune it down a bit, he's just too dang bitchin'
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Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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F me.
The drongo heads-on with no support crew.
Gets smacked. Radios off to Europe and now others will be compelled to drag his sorry arse off.
Heck. Bring his butt down alive.
But here's the deal. You want to solo then you accept full responsibility. Hire your own damn full-time rescue team for the job on stand-by - quit compelling the risk to others.
Cop the critique sweet Tomaz. We know it's irrespective of altitude - you'd still radio to plea from 24 thousand. Your history-onics show little regard for those who've endangered themselves greatly to keep you alive today.
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billygoat
climber
cruzville
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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I've heard other alpinists throw down some pretty harsh words about the last time this happened--most notably Steve House. Something along the lines of he gets into these situations as a publicity stunt. Discuss...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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He must have been on something very dangerous to get injured at such a low altitude.
The low altitude should make his rescue fairly straight forward however. At that altitude they can lower people from helicopters or pass him a rope fairly easily I would think. Helicopters in Nepal run about 5,000 dollars an hour however. Let's hope he had insurance.
Meanwhile the Nepalese military pilots get more free training.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Training can kill pilots too. Last time, before Nanga Parbat, he marketed the fact that rescue was impossible, commitment total... blah...blah...blah... Then when things went awry he was crying for a rescue. They saved his ass and now he's back up in the same situation.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Nov 12, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Jan!
Interesting data/logistics and insight.
Keep on with the info/posting.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 12, 2009 - 03:26am PT
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I've been there, thats a big gnarly peak!
can you guys wait until he gets down before you start tearing into him...sheesh whether you like his style or not...he is a human being, a climber just like the rest of us.
"rescue will be fairly straightforward"
^^^lol, thats f*#kin easy for you to say from your office chair.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 12, 2009 - 04:01am PT
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its easy to condemn others for what they see as reckless climbing. and as a sar member in yos for ten years, i know the dangers that recuers are put in. i'm sure he did not plan to get hurt, after all, he carries picturs of his family with him on his climbs. the thing is, the call to the mountains is so irrestible to some that to thwart it is to lose one's whole identity and reason for living. some of us our happiest in the mountains and can't say no to the personal challenges of the peaks. i sure hope he makes it back. shipoopoi
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:30am PT
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Here's the latest:
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18867
Rescue underway on Langtang Lirung: Sherpa team and a chopper trying to reach Tomaz Humar
04:45 am CST Nov 12, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) A rescue party is trying to reach Slovenian Tomaz Humar – injured and stranded at about 6,300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north face since earlier this week.
“A rescue team managed to fix ropes up to 6,200m yesterday,” Branco Ivanek told Barrabes.com. “They are 100 below Tomaz, but there's been no way to contact the climber yet. Rescue labours will continue tomorrow - as well as aerial search from a chopper appointed to scout the face.”
No further contact over sat-phone
While details are still sketchy, local media report that Tomaz Humar broke a leg (and possibly some ribs) while on descent on Monday, and called for help over sat-phone.
“A Sherpa rescue team was sent to the spot immediately,” Union of Asian Alpine Associations' president Ang Tshering Sherpa told 24Ur network. “First they fixed up 400m of rope to C1, then went up on a second push with 900 extra meters – enough to fix up to 6,300m. However, they have not been able to find Humar yet. There’s been no further contact over sat-phone either.”
Tomaz Humar was born on February 18, 1969 in Ljubljana, Slovenia. He has been a member of the Kamnik branch of the Alpine Club since 1987, and completed nearly 70 first ascents at home and abroad.
Tomaz's most remarkable climbs have been tough climbs on 6000ers and 7000ers: New routes on Ama Dablam, Lobuche, Nuptse West, Dhaulagiri (no summit), Aconcagua South face, etc.
In October, 2007, he forged a new route in pure alpine style along the right side of the South Face of Annapurna. He climbed on virgin terrain until 7500 meters where he met up with the East Ridge route which he took to the East Summit at 8047 meters. Humar climbed the route in only 2 days (roundtrip) in very tough conditions.
Langtang Lirung (7,200/7,300m depending source), SW of Shisha Pangma, is the highest point in Langtang Himal. Rarely visited, teams usually attempt the summit from the peak's East ridge. Terrain is mostly steep, difficult ice.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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The irony I see in the situation is that climbers like Tomaz choose not to use Sherpas for their ascents, but when they get in trouble, the call goes out for Sherpas to save them. A tad hypocritical it seems to me.
Assuming all get back safely, the Sherpas will have seen it as a lucrative few days and will no doubt joke with Tomaz that next time he should climb with Sherpas from the start, he's going to pay them either way.
As for helicopters, the Nepalese fly goats and kerosene in them and the army does border patrols in them every day. I don't see a rescue as more dangerous than that. And a rescue brings good karma which is important in that part of the world.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:50am PT
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Awwwww. This doesn't sound good. Tomaz, my thoughts are with you and your bone-crushing handshake. Be well, my friend.
Mal
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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I am with Mal. It's hard to fathom folks slagging on Tomaz while he is hurt. Firemen don't opt out of fighting a fire and rescuing someone because they fell asleep smoking. At least wait till he is back and safe before dishing out the bad vibes.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Good luck Thomaz.
Not sure how I feel about multiple rescues. It seems to me Tomaz' climbs are on a par with some of Steve House's. And I'm always applauding Steve's. Should climbers generally stop doing extreme stuff because a rescue might be necessary? Hell, I might have to be rescued off of Royal Arches one day :). Maybe I should just stay home.
by the way, how many here have ever been rescued? 30 yrs and counting in the mountains and I haven't yet (knock on wood). But the coastguard has picked me up more than once windsurfing (on a strong outgoing tide and dying wind). I guess we're even.
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