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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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Hey there amigos! More than ever now, everyone is asking me for more info on the Torres del Paine, and what it takes to organize a trip down there. And with the North Tower being one of the coolest and most obtainable prizes, seems only fair that I let all of my friends in on the logistics and info to get there and send!
Of the three Towers, the North Tower is the most obtainable, and goes free at mostly 5.5 to 5.8, with two pitches of 5.9-5.10a right out of the col. Every season it seems that more people are able to make the summit of the North Tower than all of the other summits in the Paine combined. This is partially due to the easier approach, awesome rock, moderate grades, and great base and high camp locations.
Here is a nice pic of the first view of the Towers that you get as you drive into the park from Puerto Natales-
Once arriving in the park, and securing your permit (more permit beta towards the end of the TR), you can either carry your own loads up to base camp, or have the Guachos take it up there on their horses. Here I am organizing the loads with our Guacho for the day-
photo- M. Matthews
Or you can carry your own loads up the beautiful Ascencio Valley-
photo- Nicola Martinez
Basecamp is located at the head of the Ascencio Valley at a location called Campamento Japonese. It usually takes about four hours or so to hike here, which is the jumping off point for the standard routes for the Three Towers. Here is a shot of Japonese, with the little ghetto cabin where we all escape from the rain, drink mate`, and share stories-
photo- Nicola Martinez
Here is a view inside the ghetto cabin, hanging out with the Guardaparques, who are some really nice helpful friends-
Eventually once your loads are up to basecamp and you are ready to move higher, you head up into the very impressive Silencio Valley, and continue your approach to high camp (if you decide to establish one)-
photo- M. Matthews
About two hours of hiking will get you to the base of the talus slope, which leads up the routes. From here, you will get your first head on view of the route-
The North Tower in the above pic is the summit in the middle, and the climbing route follows more or less the right skyline.
Another hour or two gets you up the talus slope, where many decide to establish their high camp. From here it is easier to monitor the changes in weather, and it gives you a great headstart over begining from Japonese, which is substantially farther away. But it is more hostile up at high camp, so many climbers choose to stay in Japonese to wait for potential weather windows, then move up to high camp the day before the potential summit day.
Looking up at the route, waiting for conditions to clear, with Fortaleza and Escudo behind-
photo- M. Matthews
The weather on average is rather poor, but occasionally the weather gods lower their guard, and allow us passage. There is about 300 meters of mixed climbing up to 5.6 and easy snow/ice, which leads to the col Bich. From here, the Monzino route up the North Tower and the Bonnington route up the Central Tower begin.
The first two pitches of the climb are the most difficult, something around 5.9 to 10a. Here is a shot looking down at a team we passed, making their way up the first pitch. I took the shot from the second pitch-
After these first two pitches, the route eases considerably, and stays in the 5.5 to 5.6 range up until the final summit tower. There are many pitches, but they go quite easily and quick. Eventually you will arrive at the exposure crux of the route- a hard to protect 5.8 pitch up the summit tower. Here is my client Mark Matthews making his way up this spectacular final pitch-
And a shot from the knife edge summit!-
All the hard work pays off once you arrive here, and the views of the area are amazing. You can see into the pampas of Argentina, the jagged peaks of Chile, and you get amazing vistas of the ice cap-
And here is what you will look like as you stand on the summit!!!-
And then yes, you must get down. About 10 to 15 raps with a single 60m rope will get you back down safe and sound. Here is Mark making his way down to the belay, happy and psyched!-
So I hope you guys have enjoyed the TR. Ii hope I have thrown a little bit of inspiration out there for you guys to motivate on. The place is very special, and you need to get out there and get a piece of it for yourself, while it is still a wild and remote place.
Now for my personal plug- For the last few years I have been not only climbing down there for myself, but I have been taking clients up many different towers and spires in the Paine. I am working through a company called Erratic Rock, based out of Puerto Natales, and I will be down there again this season, taking people up the North Tower and other objectives as well. I have also guided two first ascents of virgin spires there as well, so the options are diverse as far as objectives go. I am currently looking to fill my schedule with some more clients during January and Febuary, so if anyone out there is interested, please contact me at elcapbum@yahoo.com
Here is a link to my company’s website- erraticrock.com
And the guides page- http://www.erraticrock.com/index.php?action=34&menu=17
Here is an excellent link to Mark’s trip report from our ascent of the North Tower. It is a great source of info, and it gives his perspective of the ascent- http://www.compassjuice.com/loc_tdp_08_torre.html
Here is one more link to the Black Diamond site, where I have put up a video trip report of the five first ascents I made down there last season. It was shot in the French Valley, where there is still a large amount of unclimbed rock!- http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/mountain/trips/playing-in-the-painedave-turners-wild-rides-in-patagonia
A more direct link to the video- http://vimeo.com/6632127
One last important item to tell you about is the permit system. It is not so difficult, but you must have a permit to climb there. Here is the beta-
1- get rescue insurance by being a member of the AAC. Bring your insurance card with you to the Paine.
2- two weeks before arriving in Puerto Natales (three or four weeks woulnt hurt, they are a bit slow down there) go online and fill out your pre permit, which is called the DIFROL form.
3- Go to the goverment building in Natales, and pick up your copy of the 'pre-permit'.
4- Take this 'pre-permit' to the administration facility in the Paine, and you will be issued you permit there.
The process is free, but has a few steps that need to be followed.
OK, I hope you guys have enjoyed the write up, and I hope to see you guys out there on the summits!!!
Cheers,
-Dave Turner
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Coolio, thanks for the beta and photos!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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There's one for the bucket list!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Dave,
Oh great bringer of actual climbing content!!
Thanks for the great pictures.
My wife and I had a fantastic Christmas eve and Christmas day on that hike and at the lake back in 96.
The wind was gnarly, but it was awesome and powerful.
One part of my mind wished I had one of my big wall partners there.
The other part was glad that I didn't!!!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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One badass little TR here, Dave! Superb, and about the Paine which everybody wants to hear more about!! Thanks and what a cool cool trip you took!
Here is your self-photo, corrected for lens distortion, perspective, color balance, tone, and sharpness. Your head looked too long (front to back) to be real:
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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Awesome Dave! thanks! Finnaly figured out photobucket huh?
Was great to see you in the ditch!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Thanks for the report. I've climbed the north tower and agree that it's very doable by the ordinary punter (me being the case in point). We did a line left of Monzino that was mid .10ish. It's an amazing place with wild weather. Bring a good book!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
sonora
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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bump
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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Glad you guys like the TR. I enjoy showing my friends cool pics to try and get more monkeys out there to get it while its hot! (or really freekin cold)
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Mar 24, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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I'm shocked that a member of the bridge would post a TR here on the Taco....
But I'm just as glad that he did.>!!!!
Great TR Dave!!!
And it looked very cold!!
Cheers
say hi to Tom (if)when you see him again at the bridge!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 24, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
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Muy bien! Hope to be there next Feb!
Why is everyone so overdressed?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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Sweet TR Dave. You going to be out this way this Spring?
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 24, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
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Nice work Dave! I saw you running--literally--up to Japonese the day that Walker got off his project (I think it was that day.) Anyhow, glad Mark got up something. He was getting kind of antsy sitting around Chacana's place.
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scrappy
Social climber
California
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Mar 24, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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Awesome Dave and thanks for sharing.
WW
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