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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 25, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Jeff - Good for you about your new route on Minerva! Hope you post about it. Thank you about the photo! Gray Ham & Chickenheads is 3 of 3 stars if you ask me, and went fine. Only did the first really long pitch, and should have used longer runners bc of the rope fight that ensued over the last roof. Have you done it yet? Looked freshly chalked.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Bump.
Because Susu only posts awesome climbing shit! Just so ya know the route she did was pretty badass!!!! 5.11a? But watching her climbing it from afar (where me and kev were with Ishun), I was like, "f*#k dude, that route looks rough, who is that?"
"It's prolly Sue", kev replies.
Meanwhile, the temporarily handicapped (ankle) John, was at work cleaning one of kev's fixed lines.
I took some pics with kev's camera, maybe he'll post up. The route Sue did looked like a rope-stretcher too!!!!
Post up, kev!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Aug 25, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Haven't done Gray Ham yet, susu, it looks good. I would like to do it and 40 miles soon. Never get enough time out there. How did the pro feel on it and what would you rate it?
Our new route is about 75' right of Young Man's Fancy on Minerva. We only did two pitches but it will finish with a third easy pitch. The 1st is 10c/d 200', 12 bolts, a couple of slung knobs, a pink tricam and a #1camalot (use a few long slings for rope drag)ending at a 2 bolt anchor. The 2nd pitch is only 5.7 but it will keep the leaders attention. It has one bolt plus I used a red C3, a blue tricam, and a #6 HB offset nut and slung a few knobs. It is also 200'ending at another 2 bolt anchor.. The last pitch will be 5 easy.
I am just above the 1st crux in the picture. There is a second crux above the roof. The 1st pitch ends about 75' above the roof.
We put the route up on lead. Only had to drill off a hook once, on the 1st bolt, then stanced drilled the rest except one I added after leading the 1st pitch a second time. We will name it after we do the third pitch.
Jeff
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yosguns
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 25, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Oh my goodness, I am so sorry we missed it!!! Thanks so much for the photos. I'm enjoying the affair from afar.
Vic should be arriving from Cali tonight, late. He's somewhere near Asheville, NC. He sends his best as well.
Cheers all...and Kev, Happy 40th!
-Ally
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 25, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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Hi All!
Thanks for the b-day wishes. Sadly the weather turned on us Sunday and since we were coming home tues or wed afternoon already, we decided to pack up and headed home since we had no idea what the weather was going to do....Regardless it was a good 11 days...Keep your eyes peeled for the TR on the usual area thread....
Also stay tuned for the Show Us Your Bluey picture thread - we've got some UBER classics - including the masterpiece work of art 'Bluey and the Alumi-cock!'
We had a BLAST for the B-day and even got started on a new line (The Golden Shower)
Many beers were consumed along with a scorpion and cousin Jack. For the record I cut that suckers tail off....
Jeff,
Congrats on the new line. I may take next weekend off - 13 consecutive weeks has kinda worn on my weary aging body and I need a rest before the 4 day trip the following weekend....It was great to climb and eat some grub with you the other night. See you in 2 weeks hopefully!
:)
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 25, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Nice stuff Tork! That looks really steep! Man, adventure for sure!
All in a day huh? That's the way you like it though!
Good to see you a couple of weeks ago, next time we got that thing by the throat!
PING!
Mucci
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 25, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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Not 'Ping'
Try 'Slack....Slack...SLACK-PING'
:)
kev
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Aug 25, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Nice Kev! Missed you on monday. Glad you had a nice B-Day!
Now post more photos in that other thread,
Mucci I look forward to finishing our route, Slack-Ping, next time we can hook up.
Jeff
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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So is the route we were working, Golden Shower, kev?
If so, between that and the alumni-cock, I'm not sure if I like my reputation up there. Damn! But, whatever, maybe I can help ya finish the 'Golden Shower' sometime.....Seemed like a sweet face.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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hey there say, kevin... just saw you got your birthday wishes... so you must have had it by now... :)
happy birthday...
i was just a tad early, i must say...
so here goes, for the real thing...
hope it was great, and that many good things, it did bring...
once again, happy birthday... :)
*say---neat rock pic just a ways up... nice blue sky, too...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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bump, 'cause neebee loves everybody!!!!!
God bless ya, neebee!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:23am PT
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Jeff, Wow, your new line looks proud! The pitch in the photo appears so clean, and the crux blank. Wonder what you mean exactly by 2nd pitch will keep the leader's attention? Quite the mysterious lure. Would love to see more photos of your routes on the SoYo thread! Also, I trip on ratings a bit... and would rather enjoy talking around a campfire sometime about that. IMHumbleO, Gray Ham and Chickenheads protects mostly well, yet is spicy. It has many great stances, but the climb could still pump you out if you hit it wrong. The main thing - it's an absolute blast! I can't believe how fast that climb seemed to get put up and yet is so good.
Bluey, too kind, man! Thank you! That was a long pitch, and I spent some time milking stances to depump plus struggling w/rope drag. Definitely fully challenged me.
Yosguns - we missed you and Vic and hope all's well w/you!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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The B-day TR is up folks,
Nebee- kev says thanks for the BDay wishes.
Oh yeah, kev now has a taco stalker!
Can I have one too?
Mucci
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:08am PT
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Josh,
Be patient oh great chef! I'm sure you too can have a TacoStalker! Actually I'm quite flattered to be e-stalked! Uber cool!
kev
BTW the TR is up on the appropriate thread....
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