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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Thanks Blue Dragon and Pip, of Course....serious and a newbie like me needs to consider it. Again dankeschoern....lynne
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Do IT! Leading every pitch would be awsome. Consider yourself lucky your partner has the Pre-Pre Snaileye, His loss.
Send!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Agree that Crescent ARch and Lucky streaks would be good tests for Third Pillar.
If you're not sure of going fast, know this...No matter how sunny and nice it seems when you are climbing in the sun, when the sun goes past the rock in the early afternoon, it's almost always dang cold on third pillar so climb with a layer and hat in your pack.
PEace
Karl
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Fletcher
Trad climber
a buttery white sand beach... I wish!
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By the way, Zander, as a slightly younger guy than you, you are an inspiration to me. Your TR of Steck-Salathe is awesome! Likewise with the TPoD.
Eric
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kovarpa
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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party above us slipped and broke an ankle. you may die or hurt yourself if you fall in a bad spot. just like anywhere else in alpine.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Hear that Zander? He called you OLd!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, wow.. lots of you all are here...
hey there to you all!
say, zander, oh my YES, THOSE ARE lovely photos... oh my...
crisp and clear, and "speaking" out to us...
thanks for all these shares, all...
:)
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redrocker
climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
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rockermike,
Thanks for starting a great thread. Have really enjoyed ALL the replies and pics. Really got to single out pip the dog's post on page one though. Wisdom and humility in them words. I wanna climb Third Pillar with pip.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Daphne,
I still gotta finish this thing! It would be fun with you guys.
"Hear that Zander? He called you OLd!"
Dammit Karl, how did he find out!
Fletcher,
Glad you liked the Steck Salathe TR. Climb on!
Zander
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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""
JAkey on the last pitch
If this guy can do it anyone can. It is kind of a steep jugwalk.
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10b4me
Gym climber
Happy Boulders
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Dana Plateau, and Glacier Canyon are really neat places
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Still as beautiful as the last time. Sigh, So much to do .... so poquito tiempo.
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TKW
Trad climber
Currently Nomadic
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Aug 10, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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My Picasa site has some good pics, including a couple from the "10b" section.
I'd say it depends what kind of "5.9" leader you are... IMHO the third pillar is really just a stiff 5.9, on the order of higher cathedral spire, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, crescent arch, etc., maybe a bit harder than Central Pillar of Frenzy.
On the other hand, if you can do any of those 5.9s, there are probably quite a few 10bs you feel ok on too. See how you feel. I say go for it - it's all well protected. Others have said this, but start EARLY, or be prepared to retreat. Also, do a few climbs in Tuolumne first to get acclimated. The 5.7 offwidth at 11000 feet was pretty winding.
Do it at some point though - amazing climb. And get someone to come along and take sweet pictures of you like Ed Hartouni posted.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Speaking of the Gomppers,
I would like to get a copy of the Rexrode guide (Mt Woodson) if anyone has a clue.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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No, it's unlikely that you'll die, BUT...........
I was there with a client a few weeks ago, and came upon a guy prussiking up the 4th
pitch. Seems he whipped off, badly breaking his right ankle. He was attempting the 10a variation on the right side of the big flake, (4th pitch). There was another party
already helping out and we jumped in as well. We hauled the fella up the last pitch, then, given that he could not walk, a number of us carried him all the way back to the cars at Tioga Lake. What a workout !
the moral, use a rope and pro early and often.
Doug
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
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Did this for the first time a couple of years ago. Holy cats one of the best climbs ever. I forgot the topo, so we wondered around to the left a bit after the first pitch but finally hit the line above the chimney flake--all good climbing, btw.
I didn't lead the last pitch but did lead the "10b" face--tricky, but good pro and only a few thin moves. Not a big worry in my book. I was concerned about the so-called "mantel" at the top, thinking of some foot dangling horror above the abyss. It's NOT that at all. In fact, I didn't even mantel. I found a couple of excellent rails leading a bit right of the summit horn and just pulled up--easy, juggy fun! I couldn't find no stinkin' mantel--at least not one that was mandatory in any way.
I'll second the comments on the last pitch--great pro, good rests, top 1% of pitches I've done anywhere, maybe the best period.
I'm hoping to do this route again next year with my wife.
If you are truly a confident 5.9 leader--cracks, face, corners, the works, then you're probably capable of a bunch of easy 10's, too. Go try a few shorter 10a/b cracks. If they feel okay, then load up your pack and git 'er done.
bAd
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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hey there ed hardini... say, fantastic pics!
good view, and crisp and all... thanks for the share...
not only are you all at supertopo great climbers, you are great photographers, as well... :)
*say, flanders, now i have an idea of the 'mountain guide' note, that i did not understand, thanks for the share---very glad the guy was only broken, as to ankle... as we all know, such things could have been worse...
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Walleye?
is that really you in those pics ????
Doug
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