Classic El Cap & Half Dome Wall Survey C Cole Climbing 1986

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2009 - 12:56pm PT

From the October 1986 issue of Climbing, this is the third and last classic Valley wall survey. Written in the midst of the Platinum Age by my partner, the ever snappy and old school, Charles Cole.

deuce4

climber

Hobart, Australia

Aug 8, 2009 - 01:15pm PT

That was an awesome piece for sure. Came and went without a lot of fanfare though, even though it was the first documentation of many ascents.

thanks for posting it, Steve.

PS. SInce you might have high quality scans, any chance you'd put them in a PDF? You can't really read the print on the scans as posted.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Aug 8, 2009 - 01:39pm PT

Thanks for another great post, Mr. Historian Grossman!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2009 - 03:49pm PT

For all you Magoos out there, the fine print without the hand lens and screen tan!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 02:23pm PT

Its more than just a bump!

GDavis

Trad climber

Aug 15, 2009 - 02:51pm PT

Wow, interesting read on the wings of steel ascent... every other placement a hole? Who knew?

bringmedeath

climber

la la land

Aug 15, 2009 - 03:13pm PT

Neat! I think a bunch of the stuff like this you have posted is some of the best stuff on this site! Thanks!

Some of those descriptions are pretty funny. I just spit all over the screen on the Artic Sea one! HAHAHA, sure bashed some of those routes and styles. Never realized those brothers fixed half the wall on those routes! That would suck to jug that much, mother of god. Camping was one of the main reasons to climb a wall for me. Thanks again for all the cool stuff Steve, make me want to be a non wanker and climb again... sorta...

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Walla Walla, WA

Aug 17, 2009 - 05:55am PT

Yup, the "ever snappy" and ever-perpetrating-the-lie, Charles Cole.

Just one more evidence of the in-print defamation written by a guy either unable or unwilling to simply walk up to the base of it... or he actually did, and then just decided to lie anyway.

I'm glad that the "old school" is over--never learned anything anyway. lol

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Walla Walla, WA

Aug 17, 2009 - 06:02am PT

Oh, and just one more correction for the "ever snappy" Mr. Cole and his subman. The Sea had nowhere near 300 hook moves when we did the fifth ascent. There were more holes than hook moves in the route, and the amount of chipping and bat-hooking was impressive. Quite a manufactured rather than "natural" line.

GREAT route anyway! One of the best in history!

Just noting the fundamental disconnect between "natural" and "great." They don't always (or even often) go together. Sometimes a forced, manufactured line is still simply awesome; and the Sea is forced, manufactured, AND awesome.

TwistedCrank

climber

Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day

Aug 17, 2009 - 09:58am PT

Shameless edit: Aww geez, not this tripe again.

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Walla Walla, WA

Aug 17, 2009 - 04:24pm PT

Shameless edit in response: Aww Cole! This tripe again? It was bad enough the first time it was published. But again?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2009 - 11:29am PT

Bwana- You guys were okay with every other placement being drilled or otherwise enhanced on WOS right?

Out of 145 pointed Logan hook placements how many did NOT involve a drill, chisel or hammer to improve the eventual placement?

Since you and Mark have been sqaubbling of late, perhaps it is time to let the healing begin with an honest answer...

Just one teensy little answer. Tiny but exciting Bwanadimples do count!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2009 - 05:51pm PT

Still waiting for that magic number?!?

C'mon tadpoles hazard a guess...80% enhanced...seventy five percent??? This is the Big Lie we're considering here. LOL

Fogarty

climber

Back in time..

Sep 19, 2009 - 11:55pm PT

Steve thanks for the blast from the past, this was a great storry, I almost forgot all about Chuck doing this...

Thanks Mike

Jack Burns

climber

Sep 20, 2009 - 12:10am PT

I always wondered why Lost in America is called Cowboys in Space in this article. Maybe that was the tentative name Greg and Randy had in mind before hand (or possibly because of the "Lovetron" hook moves). I remember from Greg's article about the route (in his book Mixed Emotions) that they saw some sort of rocket test while on the first ascent and that got them to wondering what it would be like if an attack happened while on the Captain and topping out to a barren wasteland, becoming "lost in america".

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 12:25pm PT

Names can evolve and change. The Endall Wall became Mescalito. The Hydra became Sunkist. The Real Nose became The Competitive Edge...etc. The Cowboy thing was real popular around that time.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 09:10pm PT

Big Ole Bump, close to the road!

Hummerchine

Trad climber

East Wenatchee, WA

Oct 30, 2009 - 12:02am PT

Steve:

I'm continually impressed with the cool historical stuff you post. Your ability to find-scan-post classic climbing articles is unsurpassed! I go on and off reading Supertopo, so unfortunately I miss a lot. I'm just curious if you climb anymore? If so I've missed it, I'd love to know what you have been up to. Thanks for any info!