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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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May 26, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Boreal Vectors. Hands down.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 26, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Spectre rhymes with Vector.... hmmmmm
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 26, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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"Spectre rhymes with Vector.... hmmmmm"
Hehehe.
Sort of. But not entirely.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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May 26, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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Kinneys waffle stompers...Great in jam cracks and edging
Shoeinards(sp?) resoled from Eastside with green dot rubber actually did a few .11 leads on smeary routes with those
Fire's... everyone started climbing a grade and a half harder with a tight pair of those.
Purple scarpas with C2 resoles...Stiff for all day and sticky as anything
5.10's The light blue ones
Kaulkulators... Awesome valley shoe but broke down in about 6 weeks of hard climbing
more five tens, whatever....great rubber but the shoes ??????
Resoled Boreal aces and the Blue ones with C4
Chili's resoled with C4
A new untried pair of high top Acopa's, Work isn't allowing for climbing right now. The harder I work the further behind I find myself.......
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Choss Gee
Trad climber
Wyoming/Utah
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May 27, 2009 - 02:47am PT
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Anasazi Verdes
Anasazi VCS when the mean greens don't cut it.
I'm nursing a Ankle injury and want to get back on the rock ASAP and can't really fit an ankle brace in a rock shoe unless its far too big. Do you guys think a High Top would have any benefits for my ankle? having more support and all?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 27, 2009 - 03:02am PT
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My climbing shoe history...
Bare feet
J.C. Penney's Work Boots ($14.95)
E.B.s
Fires
Blue Kaukulators
Blue Kaukulators
Brown Kaukulators (not)
Blue Kaukulators
Megas (had to cut off the heel rand - they still sucked)
5.10 Anasazi & Ascents
Current: Blue Kaukulators / Ventors / Muiras
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 27, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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" Do you guys think a High Top would have any benefits for my ankle? having more support and all?"
Yup, fer sure.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 27, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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I broke my calcaneus (heel bone, just below the talus in the ankle) in early spring 2007. About 3 months afterwards it was still pretty sore. I picked up some acopa JB's which had a lot of support. They took quite a while to break in, but I like them. Stiff, but they smeared well on Tuolumne granite -- I was able to lead 5.7 slab in them. Hope to use them again this year.
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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May 27, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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healyje:
Are you saying the blue Kauks are different than the brown?
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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May 27, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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La Sportiva Synchros were my favorties, by far really. I liked Boreal Ballets and Aces but they didn't seem to have quite the same precision, at least for me. (Maybe some softer shoes for sport climbing, but I'm talking trad here)
Mr. Bacher--if you read this--what Acopa shoe would be most similar? Legends I presume? I've never tried Acopas but would like to. As others have noted, they're not as easy to find as the mass producer brands. I can go to Neptune's.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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May 27, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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The Kaukulator question...
Joseph says they fit differently (the Blue and the Brown) if I
recall correctly.
I have heard this from other people but I can't tell the
difference in fit.
The brown ones are stiffer than the blue, no doubt.
I have both kinds. I can't tell the difference.
I held them up before a friend. He said the difference in shape
was obvious.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 27, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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wow, some of you can recall yr entire shoe history? I can't even get close, probably because I went through so many used cheap pair.
Kronhofer
EB
PA
Ascender (Green)
Ascender (Yellow)
Paragot
Calma
Fire
Ninja
Original Mega
Le Menestrel
asolo slippers
1st gen. Anasazi
--Three or four pair of bonus freebies that I can't quite recall-- at least one pair of Red Chili Sausalitos
moccasym
miura
testarossa
custom kletters by dan asay
jb
sidewinder
merlin
I don't believe that's anything like a complete list, and I can't even do the supplementary boot/crampon/approach shoe chronicle. of the old ones, the ascenders and paragots were the best. no idea what happened to them.
some of you guys must have had really rigorous toilet training, the way you've kept every piece of gear you ever owned.
i'm lucky if i can find a frickin pair of socks that match.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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retired today... my 1995 Kaukualtors. They served me well, and Barry's Resole kept them in play
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Damn Ed....
We got to go crack climbing some time.
Just saying, jb
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richross
Trad climber
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EB's because the remind me of when I was young.
The laces sucked.
They lasted about a week.
Me with a new pair in 1980,Gunks.
Edit...I now wear Sportiva Tradmasters which I love.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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oh boy... i have a lot of shoes from working in the industry.. lets see if i can remember...
1st - Sportiva Cliff's. They were stiff which sucked for gym and sport. Put them away after my second pair. Broke them out 5 years later for snake dike, cathedral peak and RR of fairview. I learned to really climb in them, not pretend.
2nd - Katana. Good for gym, decent for think crack. 2 resoles, wore em for years
3rd - Evolv EVO. Pretty badass, did a lot of climbing. 1 resole, wore my brothers pair after he gave them to me and I resoled THEM.
4th - bought some POS red sportiva shoe off of the interweb. Stitching behind the heel made them impossible to wear.
5th - TradMasters. One of the 'only 3 i will ever need'
6th - Anasazi Velcro. Another of the 'only 3 i will ever need.' 1 resole
7th - red chili velcro. sucked bawls.
8th - Evolv Pontas. Pretty awesome for gym
9th - Evolv Maximus. Rad shoe for walls and moderates when i'm taking newer climbers up long routes.
10th - mythos. 1 resole, second pair. another of the 'only 3'
11th - anasazi lace v2. too small for my feet, got from a friend
12th - galileo. Decent, got from a sales rep. will use more when anasazi's blow up.
13th - gambit. got as a sample from a sales rep, wore the crap outta them. great shoe, not quite as good as a mytho.
14th - evolv royale. brand new, pretty cool for a comfy shoe.
15th - acopa spectres. RAD. will wear more often, have barely had a chance to break em in. love them.
not to mention some shoes i've gotten from friends or my brother who doesn't climb so much. a lot of these shoes were given to me and i wouldn't have purchased if i had the money for, but are good to have. about 6 pair are at random friends houses because i lend them out quite a bit. i love shoes... don't get me started on approach shoes. all i can say is evolv will corner THAT market soon.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I forgot my current favorite (and only) Mythos w/ Barry's special monster-bunion shaped 5.10 resole with a thin crack outer edge whittle at a campground 90 miles away last week and made the big journey hoping that they would be there.
They were!
Someone had found them on the rock where I placed them to dry. (We'd gotten rained on.) They placed them carefully next to the trash can so that I'd have a chance to claim them before they got hauled away as trash. Thanks, stranger!
The $175 that it would cost to put a pair into service in the same way out of the box could be replaced, but the 2-3 perfect June weeks that I'd probably be without good footwear could not!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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i'm a sportiva boy too-kaukulators, mythos, some old pink syncros. Some nice souls just sold me a pair of brown kauks, for$40, i should be set for awhile. Ah, high tops!
Oh tradmasters too-i'd love them more if they weren't made in china, but in italy like all their cousins.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Lots of pairs of kaukulators in the Rubber Room. That should tell you something.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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I really like my Red Chili Spirits. They fit me very well- precise and snug but not uncomfortably tight. Sticky and durable too.
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