A Piece of Charlie Fowler: TR of Paradox Valley

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic

Cuckawalla

Trad climber

Grand Junction, CO

Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2009 - 12:58pm PT

Uranium Mines, Old Flumes, Roads that seem to wander and never go anywhere, Mountain ranges all around, and nobody anywhere. Paradox is quiet and slow. There is no pressure to do anything but enjoy yourself and at whatever pace.
I had first heard about this place before Charlie's death and had grabbed a partner and tried to find some climbing. Hours later we returned to Grand Junction having not found the climbing, much less anything worth climbing. We wrote it off as mysterious choss. Later, after Charlie went missing there was a slide show at the local gym by one of Charlie's Partners and co-author of the guide book for the area Damon Johnston. After seeing glorious slide after glorious slide we took note to return some time and find the illusive climbing that seemed to be only a myth. Promise of both splitter cracks and pocket poking ledge crimping on solid rock, a rarity around here; sounded too good to be true. A few weekends ago a group of us Grand Junction folk had plans of going to City of Rocks, but with a forecast of snow and cold temps we decided to give Paradox a try. We didn't regret it.

On Friday we took a late start assembling the GJ caravan. We drove through familiar territory through Unaweep.
We stopped briefly at Gateway Canyon Resort for ice. We all commented on what a Monstrosity it is in the middle of nowhere, owned by the creator of the Discovery Channel. Having started late we decided to get a bit of climbing in before we hit our camping destination for the night, 16Z. We got our pitches in at a worthy roadside crag called Sewemup Mesa. I am in continuous awe at the variety of rock that is in the general area of the Western Slope. The climbs at Sewemup were on excellent rock and of great quality. At the base of the climb we found the Dirty Angel, our trip mascot. Though her massive head makes her seemingly top heavy, her wings and fingies provide mint jams at all opportunities.
Ms Abbie thought this wide treat looked tasty and with some thrutching she clipped the chains.
Dan, having lead only a few climbing in his climbing career, sinks the mitts
The temp was perfect, slightly overcast yet warm. We moved around to the prow where I had my eye on this uber good roof crack.
Chris Jumped on the thing and ended up taking a monster whipper. It is a good thing he had Dirty Angel clipped to his Harness.

With Fading light we intrepid voyagers decided to try and find our way to 16Z which has a history of hiding itself from searchers. As the sun sank we found our Precipice atop the valley.
.
We awoke the next day to rain. A slight mist that turned torrential. We were left to abbie's truck with scrabble and card games for the next 6 hours.
The storm broke and the sunshine exploded onto the red rocks baking it dry. Still to wet to climb we went exploring.
We set out rather early on Sunday eager to climb. The rock is amazing. It boggled my mind to how long it took to put all these climbs in by such a few number of people in such a relatively low traffic area.
Some clouds started to whisp our way but in a too casual of a way we figured it would pass. In five minutes we were running to a near over hang which also provided a sandy overhung crack for me to try my sand vag against. #.5 Camalots through a bulge straight to #4's. Ouch.
The rain let up enough to scurry back to camp and watch the sun set. We hoped for a drier tomorrow.

Monday was overcast so we packed up camp and started to head home when once again the sun burned the clouds and we were left squinting, thinking about climbing. Hours later we roll up to Atomic Energy Crag to do some pocket and crimp attack.

We Left Dirty Angel to watch over Atomic Energy Crag. Look for her.
.
It was a bit eerie to go to nearly every climb we did have Charlie's name on it. Clipping his bolts and testing ourselves on his lines. In the end we all came to an agreement and understanding the place. We found it special and in a world outside of the traditional crag attack crowds. I imagined Charlie using this place similarly to how we have, as a refuge from the world. We all left inspired and hungry for more. We left more in touch with all of our own personal interpretation of what climbing is about. I am damn sure glad Charlie and the others choose to share it with us. If you need a break from it all, I recommend getting lost in Paradox.

TKingsbury

Trad climber

May 18, 2009 - 01:06pm PT

Wow, looks really cool out there, great stuff!

Thanks for posting it up!

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

above the play park

May 18, 2009 - 01:33pm PT

Great. Reveling in undeserved obscurity. Viva el desierto!

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 18, 2009 - 01:43pm PT

Nice TR!!! When it comes to new routing in SW Colorado, Charlie was the MAN!

klk

Trad climber

cali

May 18, 2009 - 02:13pm PT

great tr--

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

May 18, 2009 - 02:15pm PT

Great report!
Great pix!

taorock

Trad climber

Okanogan, WA

Mar 25, 2010 - 04:30pm PT

Love the TR, love the area. I got there a few times in the eighties when I lived in Silverton - bouldering and exploring.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Mar 25, 2010 - 04:34pm PT

Nice! Brings back memories, I climbed in the Paradox Valley several times with Charlie and Chris- sweet place!

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Mar 25, 2010 - 04:36pm PT

What a great TR.

And great photos.

And a team Mascot! (The Cozmic Banditos do that.)

And within reach!

(If we could ever find the stuff...)

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Mar 25, 2010 - 04:59pm PT

Damn good effort on your part and terrific pictures too.

Charlie also liked Naturita for this type of stuff.
Would be a good companion piece ... or are they one and the same?
(Thumbing my map now ... 'looks to be so )

Lost-Arrow

Social climber

Hawaii

Mar 25, 2010 - 08:32pm PT

Thanks for the TR. I've never climbed there, but I love driving through it. I haven't passed through since 2003. Are they pumping oil in that valley still or have they given up?

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Mar 25, 2010 - 10:04pm PT

So,.. I see.

My comment earlier today was in the TR section at the bottom of the page but not on the thread.
Ah well.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland: what's not to love?

Mar 26, 2010 - 02:35pm PT

The roof crack looks phenomenal - what size cam does it take through there?

ydpl8s

Trad climber

Santa Monica, California

Mar 26, 2010 - 05:43pm PT

Cool report! When people used to come visit me in Colorado (Denver) from out of state, or out of country, I would always take them, or send them, on a big loop through the SW part of the state. It was only there that they saw the "real" Colorado that they had envisioned in their minds.