Washington Column Direct Route: per green Roper guide

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Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2009 - 04:21pm PT

HI everybody.

Here is an OCR'd scan of Roper's written description of the above route. And also the plate with which he accompanied that area's descriptions in his historic guide from 1971. I put it up as it is good to have when you are doing this useful obscure uncrowded climb that ends on the rim of the Valley. Do the Charley Brown Chimney pitch instead of the Fat Man Chimney pitch, way better! Descend typically via North Dome Gully,alternatives being: the Arches rappel route, or hike up to the rim trail to Yosemite Falls. Or continue on to North Dome routes above through the slabs and forest.

Washington Column-Lunch Ledge pI. 10
II, 5.6. This nondescript climb, the first technical
route done in the Valley, was done in September
1933 by Hervey Voge, Richard Leonard, Jules
Eichorn and Bestor Robinson. Although it was once
the most frequented route in the Valley, its popularity
has waned in recent years owing to the discovery
of more enjoyable routes. Most climbers now regard
the Ledge as simply a belay spot on the Direct Route.
From the vicinity of Camp 9 walk up to the base
of slabs several hundred feet left of the demarcation
line between the Arches and the Column. Ascend
diagonally (class 3) to sloping ledges in the demarcation
line, perhaps 200 feet above the ground. Rope
up and descend class 4 rock about 20 feet, then traverse
upward and right to a broad ledge. Climb straight
up for 60 feet, then work up and right to a forked
tree. About 25 feet higher, step right around a bulge
and wander up step-like ledges to a large pine and a
cairn overlooking an 800-foot dropoff.
Work up class 4 cracks and chimneys for 175 feet
to a belay ledge, then traverse left on a three-footwide
ledge for 25 feet to a vertical crack-the
Reigelhuth Chimney. In reality the "chimney" is a
jamcrack, awkward (5.6) at the bottom and easier
higher. The 90-foot pitch ends on the disappointing
Lunch Ledge. Rappel from here or continue via one
of the following two routes. Hardware: 6 pitons, up

Washington Column-
Direct Route pI. 10, pg. 144
III, 5.7. First ascent in August 1940 by John Dyer,
Robin Hansen and DeWitt Allen. Although not
terribly enjoyable or aesthetic, this route is probably
done by most climbers who stay in the Valley for any
length of time. The route begins from Lunch Ledge;
many parties have gotten lost on the first pitch.
Above Lunch Ledge don't climb the large left-facing
open book (easy at the start), but climb an inconspicuous
crack system 25 feet to the left. This system
soon turns into a decomposed, tricky 5.7 slot-the
notorious Fat Man Chimney. About 140 feet above
Lunch Ledge, traverse down and right to a good belay
ledge by a tree. Next, move up and right over a
difficult friction step to a sandy slope below the
forbidding Great Chimney. A strenuous pitch in this
chimney (5.6) leads to a belay on chockstones.
Another pitch leads to the top of the chimney, where
it is possible to traverse up and left into a narrow,
rotten chimney. A short distance higher pass through
a tunnel which leads into a class 2 forest. Routefinding
becomes complicated beyond here-there are
several routes of similar difficulty. A 5.7 route can be
worked out near the left side of the last 300-foot
wall. Above this, exit onto brush slopes and the
summit. Hardware: 10 pitons, up to 1-1/2"

In 1961 Charles Artman and Gerald Kraus inadvertently climbed the large, left-facing open book above Lunch Ledge. This turns into a difficult squeeze chimney and is 5.8. This variation rejoins the Direct Route at the tree before the difficult friction step [and at the top of the Fat Man Chimney pitch---this optional pitch is known as Charley Brown Chimney].