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macgyver
Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2005 - 10:47am PT
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For us arm chair climbers...can anyone add some history and takes on the following climbs? Second ascents? Crazy Stories.
Cut and paste the message to fill the gaps and slowly expand the info. Rock on!
EL CAP OBSCURITIES
Reach for the Sky (VI 5.11 A4+)
FA: Jim Beyer
Winds of Change (VI 5.10 A5)
FA: Richard Jensen
Possible repeat by by Valerio.
Pacemaker (VI 5.9 A4)
Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett, Murray Barnett, Jeff Siler
"K. Daniels did Pacemaker a few years ago. Sounds like it was a spartan affair, but they got it. There's not a lot of stuff that's hard for KD." - Mike
Cosmos Direct
John Middendorf
Verano Magico
Luis Gallego and Javeier Gallego
Turning Point
Steve Grossman
"I know that Turning Point is probably one of those Grossman testpieces which is probably pretty bad ass. He did it on the solo. The name may come from the fact that it was one of his last major big wall gnarly stand-back-this-is-it kind of artistic masterpieces. Cole was putting up False Shield (which he told me wasn't that good) around the same time. Two bad-ass soloists doing FA's at the same time up there, it was pretty impressive." - Deuce
"I actually started turning point with Steve Grosssman. I was his belaly slave on the first three pitches. That was October 1983. The weather turned wet and stopped us from proceding that fall. Steve returned alone the following year to complete the route.
Steve was indeed "bad ass". The second pitch has thin 5.11 face 20 feet above a bolt, and a 50 foot runout on 5.10 face.
Steve belived in good bolts. He hand drilled 3/8" X 3" at the anchors and on the lead. They took so long to drill that the first thing he would do, once he got a hook established to drill from, is take his shoes off!!
Interesting guy!" - Mark
Mediteraneo
Miguel Angel Gallego Jose Luis Gallego
SECOND ASCENT: "Extreme skier, extreme dirt bike ripper… extreme whatever. Kevin Andrews – it doesn’t matter what he does… he always rips it up. Let’s not forget his partner Kenny B. Nice send guys!" - Minerals
The Real Nose
Central Scrutinizer (VI 5.11c A4+)
Steve Grossman and Jay Ladin
POSSIBLE: Polish team attempt in 2004?
Genesis (VI 5.11b A4+)
Doug Englekirk and Eric Brand
POSSIBLE: Genesis was repeated by the guys who put up Highway to Hell
Every Man for Himself (VI a4)
Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, and Mark Bowling
Ring of Fire (VI A5)
Richard Jensen and Mark Smith
Nightmare on California St. (VI 5.8 A5)
Warren Hollinger and Grant Gardner
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.9 A5)
Jim Bridwell, Tyson Hausdoerffer, Boulos Ayad.
Highway to Hell
????
Ned’s Excellent Adventure (VI A4)
Warren Hollinger and Bryan Law
Kaos (VI 5.7 a4)
Steve Gerberding and Dave Bengston
Abstract (EX?)Impressionist (VI A5)
Eric Kohl
Bad Seed (VI 5.9 a4+)
Bill Russel and Troy Johnson
"Bad Seed has seen at least 2 one day ascents and a few other teams have gone up it." - bringmedeath
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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May 18, 2005 - 11:38am PT
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I know that Turning Point is probably one of those Grossman testpieces which is probably pretty bad ass. He did it on the solo. The name may come from the fact that it was one of his last major big wall gnarly stand-back-this-is-it kind of artistic masterpieces. Cole was putting up False Shield (which he told me wasn't that good) around the same time. Two bad-ass soloists doing FA's at the same time up there, it was pretty impressive.
Anyone heard of a second ascent of Turning Point?
I guess if Mac has a topo there must have been a second, 'cuz I don't think Grossman ever shared his topos.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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May 18, 2005 - 12:35pm PT
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Winds of Change was repeated by Valerio I think. Hmm, Central had someone do it this year... or at least a bunch of it. Genisis was repeated by the guys who put up Highway to Hell I think. Ring of Fire had a bunch of pitches "re-established" on the Nightmare F.A. Kaos has been done a bunch and last I heard the last pitch of it is missing flakes or something. Abstract... hmm I thought it was Expresionist maybe klaus will clarify. Bad Seed has seen at least 2 one day ascents and a few other teams have gone up it.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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May 18, 2005 - 05:09pm PT
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What about Mirage? Has it ever had a 2nd?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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May 18, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
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yes, it has been done in a day too.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 19, 2005 - 12:06am PT
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Rick Lovelace on the second ascent of Kaos.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 19, 2005 - 12:16am PT
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Maybe not an obscurity route, but a route where no one is waiting in line none the less. Do you recognize this pitch Deuce?
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WBraun
climber
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May 19, 2005 - 01:04am PT
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Just as a leaf disconnected from a plant or tree dries up, withers and disintegrates, so does the climber when disconnected from his beloved climbing.
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The Dude
climber
Truckee, CA
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May 19, 2005 - 01:34am PT
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I heard Mediteraneo (sorry for the spelling) got repeated a few years back by a old school extreme skier from Tahoe.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 19, 2005 - 02:11am PT
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Ring of Fire (VI A5)
Richard Jensen and Mark Smith
Aren't these names reversed on your FA list? I mean, shouldn't it be Mark Jensen and Richard Smith? Mark Jensen is the author of the old Bay Area rock climbing guide from eons ago, I believe.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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May 19, 2005 - 02:20am PT
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No those names are correct.
The only Mark to write a guidebook out the Wawona bunch is Mark Spencer.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 19, 2005 - 02:40am PT
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I heard Mediteraneo (sorry for the spelling) got repeated a few years back by a old school extreme skier from Tahoe.
Extreme skier, extreme dirt bike ripper… extreme whatever. Kevin Andrews – it doesn’t matter what he does… he always rips it up. Let’s not forget his partner Kenny B. Nice send guys!
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macgyver
Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2005 - 07:04am PT
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I am starting to cut and paste quotes into the message. Pretty nice getting some info out of the woodwork.
keep up the info!
Duece and Kohl must have something to say too!
Rock on
Andrzej
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 19, 2005 - 02:06pm PT
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There was a guy (solo?) on the Central Scrutinizer last year. It's fun to look up at El Cap and wonder, "What the heck route is he on?" when you see someone someplace that you don't usually see someone.
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The Dude
climber
Truckee, CA
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May 20, 2005 - 02:52am PT
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Minerals, I wasn't bashing on Kevin. I didn't know who sent the route, that was all the info I had on the subject. I think that's a badass job by those dudes. Anybody know if The Real Nose has seen a second?
Cheers
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seamus mcshane
climber
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May 20, 2005 - 06:46am PT
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Kevin Andrews and Ken Bokelund repeated Mediterraneo in 2002. It was fun watching them from the meadow; seeing climbers (especially those I know) in places you normally wouldn't. 11 days is too long for me, but these guys once spent 4 or 5 days at one belay on Magic Mushroom, even refusing a rescue. They thrive on this stuff. I wouldn't be suprised if they had another outrageous SECOND up their collective sleeve (maybe even a "freshie" all their own).
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 20, 2005 - 01:24pm PT
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The Dude, I didn’t take it as bashing him… I just threw in a few bonus points because those guys are rad. They also made an attempt at the Scrutinizer but ran out of water…???… can’t remember the details on that one.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 20, 2005 - 08:19pm PT
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I've seen parties on Central Scrutinizer at least twice.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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May 21, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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T2:
the pitch looks vaguely familiar (the hook flakes on the right looking good in the pre-big pro days), but I can't place it completely. Do tell...
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