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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Looks like Ed is giving a show at Neptune's next month.
http://www.neptunemountaineering.com/neptune/dept.asp?s_id=0&dept_id=200
"Thursday, April 3
First Ascents in Colorado’s Black Canyon and the Canyonlands of
Utah – including a film of the First Ascent of Super Crack.
The perilous walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River, and the fabled crack climbs and sandstone spires near Moab, Utah, are two of America’s most challenging and dangerous climbing areas.
Rock climbing pioneer Ed Webster discovered and climbed many routes in “The Black” and “The Desert” over two decades ago--and today, they are some of the American West’s most legendary ascents.
Ed will be showing slides of his most well-known rock climbs in these areas--including the first ascent of the infamous Super Crack in Indian Creek Canyon in 1976."
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Thanks for the heads-up, Eric. Wouldn't miss it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dammit. I'm working that day. In the San Rafael Swell. no chance.
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Broken
climber
Texas
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Mar 24, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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Bump:
Perhaps I didn't see it, but I'm still hoping for a lcoyne (or someone else?) story about Stratosfear.
Like others have said, it is a route that captures the imagination (or mine, at least).
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Mar 24, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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"Never being one to turn down a free drink of water in the Black he promptly and with out warning buried his face in my crotch and proceeded to slop up the rain water like a dog. Waking up to this unusual experience I thought in horror that my long term Climbing buddy had gone rogue on me and I was trapped with no place to hide." -Philo
That may be the funniest and best thing ever written on Supertopo.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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Especially funny if you know Jim Nigro! It is so easy to picture him doing that and smiling that oh-so-sincere look that Jim gets whenever he is involved in anything to do with climbing. Jim is one of the single most focused individuals I know. I can see him looking at Phil like, "I had to Phil, it was imperative!"
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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In light of Ed's presentation at Neptunes tonight I thought I'd post up another story from The Black.
Once upon a time (back in the day) a passal of us Gunnistoners were lounging on the North Rim watching the progress of the Brittish invasion. Leigh, Strappo and Crusher were on the last day of an early ascent of the Hallucinogen. We were vastly amused that Crusher used a tattered old foldable garden chaise lounger as a belay seat and portaledge. He would finish belaying fold up his seat clip it to his harness haul loop and jug the fixed rope. When they were about a pitch away from the rim it was obvious the blistering heat had taken a substantial toll on these dudes. So we got the idea to lower a stuff sack full of icy cold beer to them. I don't know what maleveolent spirit prompted me to play a cruel practical joke on them but every time they would try to grab for the sack I would snatch it away just out of reach. We called it "fishin' for Brits" and laughed uproariously. That is until they stole the bait.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Showed up late Friday night with the intention of doing a relatively new Grade V route, Atlantis, with Pike Howard. Turns out we BOTH forgot to bring the topo. We talked ourselves into the idea that we don't need no stinkin' topo and got some sleep. At 4:30 in the morning, we get up and suddenly the idea of going up a 16 pitch 5.11 route in the Black without a topo seems, well, ill-advised. So we decide to have a leisurely breakfast and do Stand-up Comic (near Comic Relief) instead, a spicey climb, but only 6 pitches. Turned out to be a beautiful day in the Black. Gotta get Atlantis in the Fall.
Me and my daughter and my chest wig at North Chasm View.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Bump for more stories. Anyone?
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csdude
Trad climber
colo springs CO
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1986 - Goss Logan in the Black Canyon-
This was my first grade V and I was completly intimidated
from the get-go at our arival..The night before I
couldn't sleep a wink while hearing the river quietly
churning 1800 ft. down in the bottom of the canyon.
I lay there wide awake in my sleeping bag all night.
I got up and had breakfast then started "water loading"..
(someone had told me this was what you should do)
chugging about a gallon, and then I just threw up all of
it about 5 min. later, wasting all that time and effort
before we even started.
We 5th classed down the gully and arived at the base of
the cruise..The plan was rick and I would follow Tom
and Brad up the cruise in two parties. Somehow this plan
got aborted for worries about how much extra time this would take. So they decided that we should do Goss Logan. Ok, great...except it's 5.11 and it has notorious run-outs on shitty 1/4 in. bolts (at the time).
Yay ! gulp !!
Everything went fine until the about the 5-6th
pitch when it got roasting hot..The crux pitch
was way run out like 30 ft. to (at the time) lousy
1/4 in. bolts. another problem was I had just got my
shoes re-soled by Steve Chenney and he had experimented
with some new glue that was now utterly failing and
my soles were falling off.
I ended up taking a huge screamer on the .11 crux then had to climb back up to the crux again, and finnaly I sent it on the next try.
I was now spent, and used up all my water, and started getting
heat sickness. From then on out it seemed like a life or death
struggle to get to the top with about 10 more hard pitches
to do. It was like I was in hell, and had to climb out of
hell, or I would be in hell all night if we didn't make it.
I continued dry heaving my way up the rest of the way
while the roaring river mocked me from below.
The 6 hour drive back to the springs directly afterwards was
interesting too, as I hallucinated imaginary climbing gear
flying at me from the darkness of the highway all the way home. So perhaps this stands out in my mind as one of my more
serious adventures, El-Cap was cake compared to that thing.
What a wild freaky route it was !!
It has since been re-bolted, and is now hopefully a lot safer.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Nice post! A typical day of life and death adventure in the Black Thanks for sharing.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
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Mar 11, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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Another good bump, Pate.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 11, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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Chest wig! hahahaha.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
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Mar 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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I don't have enough chest hair to fill a gnats' ear.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 11, 2010 - 09:49am PT
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Nice post, CSDude. I love these adventure stories.
It's March. The Black is calling....
edit: Crimpie, it's not funny. It weighs a ton.
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Robb
Social climber
The Greeley Triangle
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Mar 11, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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Nonclimbing post redemption bump.....
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 18, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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Big bad big wall bump.
This was my hand drawn topo from back in the dark ages.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 18, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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The text goes as follows;
Phamous moments in
Philbert phoolery #511C
Phearless Philbert instructs the aging
Nimrod Numnut on alpine waste disposal.
Ya see Numnut, it's as easy
as falling off a cliff.
Just get yourself two real
flat, frisbee like, rocks.
One for the top and the other
for your bottom... Kinda
like making a sandwich...
Butt... Don't forget that
the job ain't finished till
the paperwork is thru...
Something along these lines actually took place at the now missing Kor's Cave bivy.
Unfortunately it really involved volatile explosive diarrhea, a dwindling supply of suitable rocks and an eventual forced retreat in "shitty" conditions.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 18, 2010 - 08:29pm PT
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This was my first Black Canyon cartoon. I drew it on the back of a letter to Jim Nigro while I was teaching in the back woods wastelands of Texas. In some ways, like facial expressions and depth of field, I think it's one of my best even though it is rather primitive.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 18, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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Nice! How's Nigro?
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