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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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planning a multi family trip to the Road's End area of King's Canyon and wondering if anyone knows of a crag in that general area that might allow for some multi-generation toproping/easy climbing? Any advice would be MUCH appreciated. my email is utahreid at gmail dot kom
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 19, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
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This one is perfect for a TR. It's just off the left side of the road when you drive in. There's a nice pullout to park. I didn't do it but it looked leadable on gear to 5.8 or 5.9. There's shade, good times!.
There's a lot of sh#t like this out there, but if you got 2 families and kids, this would be my choice.
Most important thing is, of course, have lots of fun!!!
EDIT: See Microcam's beta down below...
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 19, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
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I second that with blue, although it tends to be wet early in the season. When will you be there? I plan on heading out there right before July 2nd and staying for some time. My partners and I are looking at putting up some new stuff in the area.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 19, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
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one area i meant to check out more is the base of North Dome on the slabs. you might try that area. approach is the crux i think.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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I'll be there from July 24-27...should be dried out by then...any other must see attractions in Road's End area to mention?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 19, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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Roped climbs are under development, but there is bouldering up the wazoo. You can pretty much walk any direction from roads end and find some stuff I've cleaned. Some of the best is under North Dome and like Munge said the slab below North Dome should have some stuff all over it. The approach is the crux, but there's a a trail with markers leading the way. There's some bolted stuff near Borden Cave, right next to the toilet. I'll be gone by the time you get there, I think the latest I'll be there is July 18th.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Jun 19, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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The kids might get a kick out of checking out some Class 6 whitewater action from the road about a mile downstream from the Boyden Caves parking lot.
Take some binoculars.
Fear and Loathing is the 6.
Can not scout from your boat, total terror boulder garden pin city type, with massive cliff face to climb up if you have a rope.
Unscoutable, once your in, your in.
Horsehoe Bend Run, South Fork Merced.
Boyden to Yucca Flat, 4 miles.
The first half mile downstream from Boyden is Class 3, so don't bother with the tourist trap parking lot, use the pullout a mile downstream if you go.
There will most likely be no boaters on this stretch, unfortunately.
Careful, the S Kings is running at 1500 which is above the Danger Level , so do not fall in.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 19, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
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"My partners and I are looking at putting up some new stuff in the area. "
That's what I'm talkin' about. Have fun!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 20, 2008 - 04:15am PT
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Yeah blue, I'm leaving Sunday for Yosemite to show some friends around for about a week. After that its Kings for three weeks! I'm ready!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jun 20, 2008 - 11:59am PT
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HighG,
Do you know anything about Herb Laeger's old route, Scarlet Slipstream? It is a multipitch slab route, north facing on the south wall of the canyon about a mile east from road's end.
I did several pitches of it with Guyzo years ago, and a number of the bolt hangers were flattenned from winter icefall and I had to thread them with webbing.
It is a good and challenging route. I wonder if modern hangers would hold up?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 20, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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I'll have to see if I can find it, do you have some better beta on finding the start? I plan on taking a bolt kit and if I were to need to replace some hangers and or bolts I'd be good doing it.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jun 21, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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The old seki guide says to cross the river to the south side at Zumwalt and hike 1.5 miles east up the south side. Look for a red streak on a slab on the south side of the cyn.
30 bolts originally. plus small cracks and features for gear. I specifically recall placing 1 - 1.5" pieces.
6 pitches. Grade III. 5.11.
Keesee and I did four pitches. The angle kicked back and the bolts were flattenned. The climbing was excellent as far as we went.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:25am PT
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Excellent, I'll check it out.
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microcam
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano. California
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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This past Wednesday I climbed on the formation of the picture that bluering posted. There are a number of bolted routes complete with anchors with rings/chains. You can scramble up left to set up TR's on two of the anchors. Both can be led. The one on the left goes about 5.9+ (3 bolts?) and the other one follows a black streak and is probably about 5.6 (4 bolts low, one below the anchors). There are at least 2 other bolted routes to the right (very slick, 5.10,5.11.) All of these routes are easily seen once you get to the base of the rock. We also located two bolted routes on a small face farther right. A great place to spend a day climbing. Hope this is helpful!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Micro, that's a real nice location, when I was there I didn't get real close to the rock so I assumed it was unbolted.
Thanks for the beta!
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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"I'll be there from July 24-27...should be dried out by then...any other must see attractions in Road's End area to mention? " -
Everything is plenty dry already. We were there a week ago and it was already extremely hot! A much better spring / fall area.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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The slabs under North Dome is nowhere to have your family...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=614850&msg=615652#msg615652
There are good boulders nearer the road below North Dome.
KS, isn't Scarlet Slip Stream a stretch for the family? I did the 2nd w/Herb & Leversee before the rock fall...'Great Route! BTW the last pitches kick back, but get more runnout and smoother!
On the way to Kings from Sequoia there is Baby Baldy on the west side of the road below Little Baldy. You can set a TR from the top and/or rap in. There's at least two quality/difficult face routes down there.
If you really want some easier fun stuff, go to Crystal Wall at Chimney Rocks. The area is due to open after this weekend from the peregrine closure.
 ec
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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EC is soooo right! That place rocks....Very fun climbing & fairly family friendly.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
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Eddie - I was NOT suggesting the Scarlet Slipstream for the family outing. Yikes!
Just going off topic to see if this guy who is climbing in there a lot right now knows about the current status of the route.
Sorry I missed the Dome Rock gig last week. I was planning to come up but things got complicated...
Another time.
ks
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