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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Colorado Crack
Walk On The Wild Side
Mental Physics
Dappled Mare
Lost In The Wonderland
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Acid Crack
Equinox
Leave It To Beaver
Book Of Brilliant Things
Dihedron
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onyourleft
Social climber
SmogAngeles
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I'm surprised this one hasn't made an appearance in the thread:
Moosedog Tower - Direct South Face
3 Pitches - 5.9 roof crux - freehanging rap finish.
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Big T
Trad climber
Running Springs, CA
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Illusion Dweller
Figures
Hot Rocks
Clean and Jerk
O'Kelley's
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jingy writes...."Then there was that one that Chris and Will put me on. Some crack that went around a corner, exposed as hell, to a head-wall traverse. SUPER EXPOSED!!! I'm not even sure I was able to finish this one... fear of death!"
That was "Around the World" at the Zebra Cliffs. How could you forget?
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Oakley
Trad climber
CA
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Wait, no one's mentioned 'Bat Crack'?
The first pitch is a shredding chimney (which is any chimney in Jtree). The second pitch is a never-ending, ankle bloody-ing, awkwardly low-low-angle crack which introduces you intimately to Quartz Monzonite.
The top of the first pitch ends in a literal bat cave, where hundreds of large mice carcasses line the floor next to the Guano.
I can't understand why no one ever does it.
It's so rotten, it's great!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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say-no-to-rap-bolting,
Will you be checking to make sure that your tick list has no rap bolted climbs on it?
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SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
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Crimpie
Love that name "Poodles are people too".
Reminds me of blueswoman Marcia Ball's "Let me play with your
poodle" album!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Apr 11, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Sooze - Let's just say I put it in the same place as all the rest of my childhood traumas!
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 11, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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I'm surprised Brutus didn't mention Nereltne (next to Hot Rocks)
The problem with JTree is that few of the climbs are pure from the ground up. Most have a few really great moves and the rest is just getting there.
My vote for best routes are
Perpetual Motion
Heart & Sole
Dangling Wu Li Masters
Loose Lucy
Hot Rocks
Illusion Dweller
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say-no-to-rap-bolting!
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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survival.
no. this is about what climbs you liked best not if they had a first ascent or a first rappel.
I've not the least problem with the fact that some people like rap-bolted climbs, especially if the climbing is enjoyable. Some people just don't care. Although, for me those routes mostly don't have the same spirit...
cheers
bl
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Nov 17, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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Tis the season bump.
Wangerbanger - Perfect rock, overhanging crack of all sizes
Imaginary Voyage - Beyond memorable. Outstanding position.
Heart of Darkness - Fingers to thinhands, overhanging clean rock
Throbbing Gristle - Clean double overhanging 7", best OW in JT?
Equinox - amazing splitter in tranquil place, super painful.
The beaver probably deserves a spot in there, but I've never been on it. You can tell I'm not a big fan of the face/slab routes from this list.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
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I'll try for five good one's which have not been mentioned here yet (unless I missed it.)
Space Mountain
Count Dracula
Yellow Brick Road
Snake Book
Raging Bull Dike
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
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Coarse and Buggy
Illusion Dweller
Imaginary Voyage
Run for your Life
Rubicon
and, well, really the sw corner of the Headstone is just that much fun!
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
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Geronimo has to be about the most unique 5.7 pretty much anywhere. Think about it:
Upside down 5.7 crack.
Amazing exposure.
Short but so fun.
Stones throw from the campground.
Great protection.
Fun place to hangout.
I first met Peter Croft after he had been doing laps on that climb. As he described it to me, his passion for this short, sweet route really gave me a look into this good mans soul.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
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Touch and Go
Rubicon
Roadside Attraction
Wangerbanger
Heart of Darkness
Top 5 that I've not done, but would probably make the list if I had (ahem...could have) done them 'cause they look amazing...
Imaginary Voyage
Course and Buggy
Tumbling Rainbow
Equinox
Mental Physics
Bottom 5
Traversing slab climbs.
Any slab climb.
Cracks that are actually grooves that climb and protect like slabs.
5 star climbs with hour-long approaches that end up only being 20 feet tall.
The climb next to the person trying to kill themself and/or their partner.
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
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1. leave it to beaver
2. big moe
3. swept away
4. illusion dweller
5. more monkey than funky
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Good list, Melissa, though I've never done Mental physics or Roadside attraction, but the rest are very cool. Everrbody else, too.
As a select few will concur, Throbbing Gristle, even with it's approach, is one of the best routes in the Park, at least the short distance up it I have been. Like all first rate Offwidths, it gets no stars in the guidebook.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Nov 17, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
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"5 star climbs with hour-long approaches that end up only being 20 feet tall."
LOL. That descriptor has gotta be Room to Shroom.
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Sluggo
Big Wall climber
zanadu
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Nov 17, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
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Melissa - when you embrace the cerebral qualities of slab climbing Josh will be a worthwhile destination.
* note offwidth thugs - Throbbing Gristle is a toprope - please lead this (jaybro)!
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