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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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What is this pitch like? Can somebody post some pictures? Would you say Steck-Salathe is harder than the East Buttress of El Cap?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 19, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
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Dapper Dan,
Search the forum for "steck salathe neb" and you'll find an entire thread that compares the two climbs. Along the way you'll find a bunch of Steck Salathe threads if you search on "Steck Salathe". Yo's trip report of his ascent of the SS is one of the best couple of TR's ever done on supertopo. Search on "steck salathe the thin blood of sport climbers". If you search on “zander steck salathe” you can read my trip report. There are a few pics of the narrows move there.
Zander
Edit.
Oops, is eb of el cap in the original post. No wonder I have so much trouble with route finding.
Z
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Nov 20, 2007 - 12:36am PT
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I think he's asking about E butt El Cap, not NE of Higher. Anyway, I think NE of Higher and E butt El Cap are very close with E butt El Cap just a little harder overall. I think Steck Salathe is around 2x the effort of either, give or take an hour or so. The Narrows are nothing to worry about, especially if you bring a #6 cam. Other pitches on the route are harder. The pitch below the Narrows is the crux, I think. The two can be linked, so I hear. Maybe next time.
J
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2007 - 12:52am PT
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Dang the route looks sweet !
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Nov 20, 2007 - 02:10am PT
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Great Route!
Have fun.
Chiminey to a squeeze Chim...
Got this off the net somewhere...
DD
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Nov 20, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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I would say The Steck/Salathe is harder then East Butt of El cap. They have totally different kind of climbing. E. butt of EL Cap only has two hard moves of 5.10c on the first pitch I think? and a few 5.10a moves higher up with some really easy climbing between these pitchs. The Steck/salathe is a longer route and has way more phyiscal climbing with some of the easier pitchs harder then expected. I have reached the top of steck/salathe benighted and extremely tired after we did the E. butt of El cap and E. Butt of Cathedral in a afternoon the week before wanting to climb more. Different partners of course.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 20, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
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SS is easier because it rated 5.9, while E.Buttress of El Cap is rated 10b.
Time to climbed both routes according to ST is about same 6-10 hours.
Anyway, I bivied on both routes
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Nov 20, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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D Dog,
That picture is from Guillaume Dargaud's website. I know because he and Jenny are the only climbers I know who glued rubber to the top of their Anasazis so they could crack climb more comfortably.
Cheers,
Brad
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Nov 20, 2007 - 06:03pm PT
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Here's another view of the Narrows.
photo DMT
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 21, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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I think you can calculate how long it will take you to climb the SS using your time from the EB of El Cap. Just multiply by 1.667.
If it takes you 1 hour on EB it will take 1 hour 40 minutes on SS.
If it takes you 9 hours on EB it will take 15 hours on SS.
These are roped climbing times.
My $.02
Zander
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nov 21, 2007 - 11:24am PT
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I've never done EB, but have done SS a few times (all more than 25 years ago). So, as I understand it Zander, I would use the 1.667 in the denominator of my average SS time in predicting my EB time. Complicated stuff, but I think I get it:)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 21, 2007 - 11:30am PT
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eeyonkee,
I'm not sure of your average time but your solo time on SS as stated before here on supertopo would put you at 54 minutes for EB of EC.
Go for it. ;-)
Z
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