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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2007 - 09:19pm PT
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The Rambler 5.10d
FA - Steve Gerberding, Scott Burke, Chris Hash, Gene Hash, 6/86
In 12/97, Chris McNamara and Jim Herson rebolted all but the first pitch of The Rambler. They also fixed ropes so that ASCA could rebolt Shaky Flakes as well. At that time the first pitch of The Rambler had 2 3/8" bolts and 5-6 1/4" bolts.
December, 2006. My friend Dan Urban was looking to tune up his slab moves, and The Rambler looked attractive, with apparently lots of bolts and a moderate appearing 5.10d rating. Read his trip report here:
http://www.yourclimbing.com/blog-the_rambler_and_the_cookie
He set forth up the first pitch (5.10c), with two solid 5.11-5.13 partners on hand for backup. Up to bolt #4 with no problems, but then it looked quite a long ways to the next bolt. He kept going and made it to a stance, but no bolt was there - just a 1/4" hole!!
Another 10' to the next bolt on slippery rock was not inviting, so Dan hesitated for many minutes. He went for it and managed to make it to the next bolt without taking the giant whipper, then to the anchor. The lads kept going in spite of the scare and did the second pitch, and also the third (with difficulty).
July 2007. Roger Brown was in the Valley, eager to rebolt and looking for partners to fix ropes for him on the climbs that needed work. I stepped in to help and we managed to fix ropes up to the p6 anchor on Friday the 13th. This set us up well for several routes below and right, but I also tied 2 ropes together and swung over to reach Shaky Flakes and eventually p1 of The Rambler. It was easy to find the hole where the 5th bolt should have been, and soon a new ASCA bolt was in place there. Five 1/4" bolts remain on the first pitch temporarily, but Roger will have them fixed next week.
The hole where the 5th bolt should have been.
New stainless steel 3/8" x 2.25" ASCA bolt.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 27, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
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somebody's finger nails need a manicure!
hahaha
rad clint!
cheers,
Munge
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks Guys
The Rambler was a good route that I used to return to now and then, but then I started to get old and er, wise. At least until high up, it sort of has enough pro to be doable/slidable.
I love that route tracing image. I realize I can do mid-life crisis (I qualify) and pick and choose among the hard routes on my way down.
I wonder if some kind of wuss linkup could be devised to avoid hard r and x rated sections, like of like Heart of Toad on fairview?
Peace
Karl
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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Deserves more time on the front page
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2007 - 04:15am PT
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Karl,
You could do 4 on Midlife Crisis, then maybe rap down and right to hit the anchor above the 5.10d pitch on Reefer Madness. Then one 5.10a pitch on Reefer Madness accesses the easy ramp over to the anchor atop p4 of Greasy But Groovy. Or climb runout 5.9 up Reefer Madness and GBG to the big pine tree. Then 5.10a up the new route and finish on GBG or the new route.
What I did was get to the top of 4 on Midlife Crisis, then go up the corner above on Friday the 13th and clip the protection bolt (it is only 5.8/5.9 to that point and maybe a little reachy at the top of the corner but good big holds up there). Then I lowered down and right and reached the top of the 5.10a pitch on Reefer Madness.
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