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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 6, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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Medicine Man, Sentinal Tower.
FA Andy Petefish and Tom Bratton, FFA Alan Lester and Pete Takeda
Finally the weather was great, and the temp was above 45. Add in a south facing tower and you get a remedy for the winter time blues. Sentinal tower is in the Grand Junction's Monument canyon. It is known for the route Fast Draw that Layton Kor put up back in the day. Fast Draw because the bong he was on was greasing out so he had to slam in another one, just in time. If you have been here you can identify Kissing Couple, Independace and others.
From the rap point we saw that we were rapping into shade which ment alot of snow on the slab that you have to down climb. EAsy remedy, tie two ropes together and slide down the slab. Jugging the line proved to be frustrating, wet, and cold.
What a gem this route is. First pitch you have to grappel with the chinle a bit until you can sink your mits.
Second pitch is wild, bombay corner, .75's to the roof where you traverse out and left. The manky hangerless bolt has been replaces not by one bolt, but also another one right around the corner.Do a bit of face climbing and jab up to a stance where the business starts.
3rd is the crux thin hands splitter crack that starts out tame and then kick out a bit making it overhanging. Lots of #1s.
We didnt have enough time to top out. Work and school were calling us. At least for a while, we were healed.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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oa, so nice. Did you have to do that to us?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Bueno!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dood, that looks frickin' all-time.
JL
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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*bolts have been replaced, no more mank to climb on. Takes some of the spice out of it, but it makes it safer, there is a giant block above climber.
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WBraun
climber
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That thing looks really good, it attracts the minds eye very nicely.
Glad you are now healed.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nice report!, Thanks! One of the very best desert tower routes anywhere!! (wish I,too had pictures) The crux pitch is red cam nirvana, and the other ones have moments that keep you on your toes.
If you liked Tales of Power and Primrose dihedrals it's a must!
The medicine man has what you need.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Daddy like.
What's that biz breaking right onto the face? Don't look too bad neither. Looks Jaybroish though.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
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not really breaking right, trying to digpast the ledge in the back of this bombay to get a .75 crack and sqeeze in to the mantle, a bit exciting. Lots of fixed cams on the route, which is surprised me because it is grand juntion, not indian creek.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Now that's the spirit!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Fixed cams? yow, it's gotten more popular. None, as recently as '03? (02?)
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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I mean that other crack system going right.
You styled it, brother. Sustained reds are not for this schoolgirl.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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to the Right is Vision Quest a variation of medicine man, a friend of mine put it up, 5.11+ offwidth.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I think that Layton and Harvey named the tower the Watusi BEFORE the rangers started calling it the Sentinal, an overused name to begin with.
In the 70s after my second solo ascent of it, and before doing a tyrolean back to the rim (the best way to go IMO), I rapped a ways down the then virgin SE face and checked out the line. It appeared to have some hairy loose blocks so I gave it a pass but as soon as Andy bagged it I regreted it.
Ah well, locals have an advantage.
Still, the wingate in the Monument although fine grain is so poorly cemented that its about the softest I've seen and fear that none of the routes could endure fore very long.
The Otto route seems to be bearing that out.
Anybody know how Angular Motion is doing? Andy and I put it up 30 years ago this October.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 10:49pm PT
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I was on AM a at the end of summer. We replaced some slings. IT does not get much action. The anchors probably need replaced, a couple of the pins are loose at belay stations. The head wall pitch has some scarring from people hammering on it as well.
some pics:
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Yeah.
Another nice airy route.
Sure you got enough aid steps there Jesse? (just kidding)
Bet that route is warm in late summer.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I remember looking to the right and seeing that line, probably thought I would get back to it. Congrats to your buddy, Cuck.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
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you happen to do Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky on Tuesday, that is not on sentinal, but to the right of Medicine man non the butte? Bottom pitch looks like crap but the top look like chocolaty delicious.
P.S I have since downgraded to one set of aiders, decrease the cluster f&uck factor.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2011 - 02:37am PT
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Another one for the list, return to Vision Quest.
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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