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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 14, 2019 - 03:12am PT
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*bump in the night*
"Get up and check the front door, babY?"
It's not obvious what it is, waking out of a sleep, but it's obvious where it is.Why is it my favorite?
If I have to have a favorite, and I do not that I can think of,
and if I do not want to appear to be square or, God forbid, inexperienced,
then I'd have to take this one.
I've led it, handily, but you don't want to know what it cost to get there,
at least not at the moment, which is the middle of the night.
It would take a whole TR.
Dangus! That's a good idea! Cool as Jebus!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:21am PT
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Good one at Butt Rock, home of Vector Analysis.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:55am PT
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Caver's Route, Tower Rock, Red River Gorge. It was 5.0 in 1976 but 5.4 now. The route starts as a face climb, then up a chimney, then tunnels through the tower to another chimney. It used to feature the only bolt(!) in the Gorge - a Star Dryvin with a strange hanger (never seen another like it since) at the crux of the first, otherwise unprotectable chimney. If there's a bolt there now, I'm sure it's a replacement. I'm pretty sure it was my first lead and one of the only routes I've soloed (up and down).
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:21am PT
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Personal fave would be the bombey chimney near the top of Sykes Sickle on Spearhead, RNMP.
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john bald
climber
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:26am PT
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Twister at Lumpy Ridge..........because you do
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 14, 2019 - 11:12am PT
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The Black Thai Chimney on Babes in Thailand, Snow Canyon.
Varnish so black that it is purple.
Used to be 5.7X because of a dicey exit, but there is a bolt now.
The pitch that follows is still R rated with a 5.8-9 runout looking at a factor 2 forty footer.
The .10a crux is well protected. Great route, I've repeated it numerous times, a thousand foot free route that requires only a single rope on the standard descent.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
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I always enjoyed Rockwork Orange at JT. Its not very long, but full value.
The start of Jumping Jack Crack (also JT) is fun too.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:56pm PT
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My favorite chimney outside of Yosemite is at Suicide and which shares the first pitch as David, namely Goliath, 5.7.
Partnered up for this climb with Roy Naasz in the seventies.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:31pm PT
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Epinephrine is a pretty awesome chiney for about a 1000ft.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Mar 14, 2019 - 02:05pm PT
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Mike M, really nice pics, thanks for sharing them. That last one of the Conn chimney looks like climbing up a two-sided cheese grater - I sure would hate to slip on that one.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 14, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
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Ran into a Fischer cat in that one time. It was freaking out and running up and down the chimney just above my head.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:12pm PT
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Mave McCuaig on the FA of Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side (YPLS), at Squamish. Pitch 3 of 4. This is the easy part.
Several years ago, a prominent local climber added a bolt at the crux, WITHOUT PERMISSION!!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
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Texas Flake is not my favorite, but this Russ comment I read today on MP is funny
Yannick Gingras :
What size gear would one need to protect the Texas Flake Chimney more than with the single mid-pitch bolt? Oct 27, 2017
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Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Something like 34.7" cam
Oct 28, 2017
This comment has helpful beta Beta: 10
My favorite chimneys all at Arch rock. They are friendly to Arch rock friends
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2019 - 05:31pm PT
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Alexey: lol!!
Chrysler Crack
One Armed Giant
One Armed Giant
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 14, 2019 - 06:49pm PT
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Levy gettin the FA of the 3rd pitch of Escape Hatch 5.10+X, X on P1 And P3. No pro in the Chim.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 15, 2019 - 10:15am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 15, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
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Mike Might already have these. International Chimny and station 13
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SuperTopo on the Web
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DEER (tunneling behind Reed’s Direct P2)
Let us know!