Some Mt Woodson Classics (TR)

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eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
Big Grunt, 5.9 offwidth/chimney 90'
Bat Flake, 10c Hands 35'(one of the greats).
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 29, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
Thanks.

I added those climbs to The List.

I presume you meant 9ft for Big Grunt, not 90?

Darshan
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
No, I meant 90 ft, but now that I think of it, 55 would be a better estimate. It's 5.9 offwidth to get in then maybe 5.7 chimney to the top.
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 29, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
Wow, that sounds like a must-do then...
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 29, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
Do you have any information on these climbs?

Sunday Afternoon Boulder 5.9 hands
Grainstorm hand crack 5.9 hands
Out of Sight 5.9 hands
Monkey Crack 5.10c hands/fists
Ride the Lightening 5.10d cupped hands, wicked steep
Mariah 5.10d OW

Also, does anyone know where the San Diego Climber's Coalition Website has gone? It used to be at http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/ but now is gone and I can't even view the cached page from google... Also, when I try to use www.archive.org to view archived versions of the site, I get a message stating that the site has been blocked... http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc/

Darshan

mtwoodsonguide

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Jan 29, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
Dude your killing me, take your meds.
Grainstorm is V5otd face that should prob. be toproped
The rest of those are good. Out of Sight is stellar
Don't even ask about the website there weren't any Woodson topos there anyways.
If anyone wants to look at hard offwidth boulder problems that they've never seen before let me know. I still have a couple I haven't gotten around to doing yet.
Whats the use of listing crap your pulling out of book here with no topo.
Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo.
Tahoe climber

Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
Jan 29, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
I just moved to SD.
I love this thread.
My palms just go sweaty reading it.
Is it okay to chalk up in a retail store?

See at the badass splitter cracks!

OP: good TR.

-Aaron

ps: hitting up Vertical Hold gym tonight, and for sure Thurs nite if any SD climbers are still following this.
Busy during the day, so the gym will have to hold me over!
Woodson next week sometime, for sure.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 29, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
¿"Here's the top of the hill 100 problems, where old guides had 10-15. The V4 upside down offwidth is very unique.
you have to log in to see or open the 4 page text doc. that goes with the crappy topo"?


Where, exactly?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 29, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
wannabes.

all your sends are belong to me.

--pitansk

p.s. grades mean nothing at woodson. 5.10d = V0. so maria's OW is V0?? even tho it's overhanging, insecure, with a very bad landing, and it's 25' up before the business is over??

heh.

have at it, homeslice.

p/s -- if you like wide, go do sickle crack (first pic in this thread.)

remember, it's 5.9.

if you don't do wide cracks, bring a bro (spotters don't do you no good at 30+ feet) who has a cell phone. you can join your name to the long list of idjits who been choppered out of woodson on their way to meet the grevious angel.

watch your back, don't get in over your head. woodson ain't the happies. it's a "bouldering" area where people have died.

i'm just sayin', is all.

Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 29, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
Right on BVB! Just send 'em peeps!
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 30, 2007 - 01:20am PT
I plan to lead. I got big gear, and a rope. Might as well use it! Even if that means only using three pieces.
mtwoodsonguide

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Jan 30, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
[url="http://www.climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=227.0
"]Over the Top of the Hill[/url]

wups forgot the link, topo sucks, it's a work in progress
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
Hope this is ok with you, Watusi... Here's a better map of Woodson, drawn by Mike Paul and posted by Tarbuster in another thread.
Hootervillian

climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
Jan 30, 2007 - 01:54pm PT
nice way to enjoy woodson without losing the contents of your vehicle!

big grunt straight up? yuk. all this time i thought it was heel-toe, heel-toe, sliiide sliiide, all the way out the back door?

have i been doing it wrong?

which ones of ya'll have third classed uncertainty/curtains? could never sack for either of those problems sans cord.

who did airstream first?
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 30, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
Thanks all for your posts. The topos and route descriptions will be particularly useful. Man, I am psyched to get on these cracks this weekend for my first Woodson trip! Its only Tuesday, this week is going to be long...

D
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 30, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
I just repeated Hear My Train A Comin last weekend. What a classic line. I can't wait to get on more of the hard stuff out there. My friends and I tried to make it to Boulder 13 too, but it's WAY overgrown from the way we tried to get there. I'll have to go back with clippers or something.... Is there a trail there that I'm missing?

Josh
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 30, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
hootervillian -- greg epperson was the first guy to get up airstream. had these huge, flat, ultra-sticky first generation fires and perfect woodson conditions -- sunny, cold, and dry immediately after a good winter storm cleared out.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 30, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
Josh,
The trail that used to go to Boulder 13 was absorbed by the private home owners who built between the road and the boulder. Might have to crawl on your belly like a reptile through all that stuff!
Hootervillian

climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
Jan 30, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
thanks bvb.

studly, i'm sure i couldn't touch it in Fires.
mtwoodsonguide

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Jan 30, 2007 - 04:40pm PT
You just walk through their back yard from boulder1 and hope noone comes out and yells at you. Then it's just 20' of thick stuff on the W side of the bouder.
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