Squamtonians visit the Ghost Valley (Climbing Content)

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thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2018 - 01:45pm PT

Here is a link to a short film made by Kieran Brownie about an exploratory climbing mission with Marc Andre LeClerc, Luke Neufeld, Brett Harrington in Western Alberta's Ghost Valley.

https://vimeo.com/250377263

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jan 14, 2018 - 04:36pm PT

wow! TFPU

very gorjuss!

What's approach like?

nah000

climber

now/here

Jan 14, 2018 - 11:04pm PT

double wow again!

what a beautiful, beautiful short...

i have to admit i wasn't expecting that. i wasn't expecting it, as what i understand leclerc, harrington and crew to have done in there this year could have quite easily been used to tell a more traditional story line of crushers contributing to the progression of the game...

as one example and assuming my understanding is correct, that leclerc on sight free soloed a couple established 300m mid 11 routes [on the same day] while down climbing, what to my recollection is a sometimes greasy and at other times loose 250m 5.8, is nothing short of ground breaking in these parts... and prob most other parts as well... while the ghost is way more solid when compared with the rest of the canadian rockies, it's still the canadian rockies, and on sight soloing at that level and on that rock is way, way out there.

so kudos: nice work brownie and co for not just making the same ole, same ole vid.

and so a serious chapeau to the whole crew. [and thx to tkc for posting up]

munge: access to the south ghost and the bulk of the established climbing is relatively straight forward in summer. two wheel drive gets you to at least the "big hill" and if there is not much water flowing then to the new "big berm". from there it is about a 60min hike to the bases of the bulk of the climbing. if'n you got a serious 4X4 and you can make it over the berm and to the banff national park border then you're looking at about a 30min hike to the base of the bulk of the climbs. from downtown calgary with a dirtbike i can be climbing in a little over an hour and a half. with a car/truck it's more like a little over two hours. admittedly i speed on most trips out there... :)

but that's not where, i understand most of that vid to have been shot. while i suspect the soloing shot at the end was in the south ghost, if my memory serves correct, the rest would have been in the waiparous valley to the north. there are biggish 3-400m walls out there with in general very few established climbs and only a couple of those specifically tackling the biggest walls. i've never personally done that trek so all i've got is guidebook beta. sounds like the crux of that one involves either about 10km of serious 4X4ing or mountain biking, or backpacking, or [as their crew did] horse packing. there is more off highway before that, but that is the length at the end where it sounds like it gets seriously tricky and even 4X4ing is touch and go.

the ghost is one of the most magical and incredible places to climb. if'n you take the time to head out there you should read up about the history of the place as it relates to a battle between the stoney and the cree. not to mention, my understanding is that, the early settlers and native tribes before them, used it as access to the bow valley and passage to the columbia.

that place has grounded me and likely kept me somewhat sane on a couple go rounds... as such a part of my soul is permanently intertwined there...

which is why i have to give another heartfelt thanks to the vid makers and their contributors for doing justice to that place with their work...

telemon01

Trad climber

Montana

Jan 15, 2018 - 07:08am PT

Great video, great place to climb.

You really captured the whole experience.

Marc-Andre knows whats up!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jan 15, 2018 - 10:46am PT

Thx nah000! Seems awfully reasonable for such a pretty place. Need to up my passport.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jan 15, 2018 - 12:50pm PT

Thanks for the lovely glimpse Kid.

Most of my time in those parts has been in winter and I never quite mustered the gumption to visit the Ghost under those circumstances. Might have to rethink next time...

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Jan 15, 2018 - 01:15pm PT

Splendidly evocative. Insightful. Brings back great memories even though I've never been there. Much harder to do than it looks. Talent apparent in the climbers and the capture and editing.

THANKS!!!

Trad climber

Calgary

Jan 15, 2018 - 01:55pm PT

The video does not do the area full justice as far as beauty as it shows just 1 area in the Waiperous (I believe but not sure exactly where it was shot). It is even better than shown plus it has some of the best multi pitch limestone climbing north of Mexico.
Imagine many 1000 foot routes of (mostly or fully) bolted 5.10-5.12 on (generally) great rock, free camping, no services or cell phone coverage yet easily accessed from the city (in summer anyway when the river is down).
It is heaven when the weather co-operates.

Check out some good videos on Vimeo featuring "The Real Big Drip" a classic mixed route.

EDIT: I take it back nothing to see or do don't bother coming