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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2017 - 09:36am PT
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Clint and I recently completed the rebolting of the Pinnacles ultra-classic Shake and Bake, put up by Tom Higgins and Chris Vandiver over 40 years ago in 1976. This was an historic ascent being the first route to tackle the ominously foreboding and steep water streaks of the Balconies.
I reached out to Tom and asked if he could pen a narrative of this groundbreaking climb. See the link below.
http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=261
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Tom wrote an article about it for Ascent if I am not mistaken.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 11:22am PT
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Thanks Clint and Bruce for re-bolting it. John Stoddard and I did a fairly early ascent and had no interest in going back a second time. The 1/4 inch bolt in the hard lump embedded in softer rock did not inspire confidence. Stoddard stemmed solidly. Particularly on first ascents, anything can come off. We were impressed at the line, commitment, run-outs, and steepness. On a different climb at the Pinnacles, I was on an early repeat 15 feet above a bolt, when both footholds popped off at the same time. I had a pebble for each hand, but my feet dropped about a foot or so as I swore and held on long enough to get alternate foot holds. Though the rock on Shake and Bake is good by Pinnacles standards, Higgins and Vandiver could have had a hold come off at any time. A fine achievement.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 11:29am PT
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Tom wrote an article about it for Ascent if I am not mistaken.
Tom wrote an article for the 1980 Ascent titled "Anti-climbing at Pinnacles" which dealt with climbing at the Pinnacles in general. It included short snippets about some of his FA's including Resurrection Wall, Balconies RR and Shake and Bake, but nothing in either length or depth.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 11:32am PT
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Stephen,
rebolting Shake and Bake was a two-part affair which included efforts from five climbers(beside Clint and I also Brian Biega, Dennis Erik Strom and Erik Bratton). You can read about it here:
http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=262
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 28, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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Excellent now maybe we'll see the strongest climbers teat themselves on this amazing looking line.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 28, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Not the strongest climber but I do like to teat myself.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Nov 29, 2017 - 04:00pm PT
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Clint and Bruce:
Thank you both so much for preserving ye old Shake and Bake for climbers of today and many tomorrows too.
Something about that wall wooed us in the day: the unlikely prospect, the queasy feeling looking up, the colors, bird and insect sounds of late day, dusky views to the east, wind in the digger pines, if I have the name correctly. I still can call up the zoomey feeling of it all these many years later.
Thank you again!
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Nov 29, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
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Thanks for posting this.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 29, 2017 - 07:22pm PT
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In the (Pinnacles) beginning Higgins and Vandiver created Shake and Bake.
Holmgren came later to make climbers pay for their sins of being hooking whores and slinging sluts. ;)
I love that Shake and Bake route, climbed it 3 times with partners Larry Martin, Geoff Norris and Caleb Rightmeyer.
Bruce, does it have a top anchor now?
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 29, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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How nice to see those pics of Bruce Cooke!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
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Thanks to this thread for this reminder of important parts of my past.
Hey Chris; if you're out there, remember me and feel like it: dalonso at uw dot edu . Hope you're doing well over there in Bainbridge(right?)
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 09:00pm PT
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Jon,
we only replaced the existing bolts on the route. You still have to go over to Electric Blue at the top which is fine since that's the best way to rappel back down.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Nov 29, 2017 - 09:51pm PT
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We hiked down in the day. Upside: might see a fox or Perigan falcon cutting near or have time to see the moon starting up.
Bruce Cooke pics: Bruce was the man, if that designator still is positive. He did Shake and Bake in his late 50s with nasty hip arthritis keeping him from stems useful on the climb. He kept moves close and tight, stiff looking but strong. He could do one arm pull ups through his 40s. He led the first and third pitch with no complaints. He bantered with me about why the hell we climbed this crappy, scary wall, (grouch to the end) but loving the climb i could tell.
Bruce suffered from prostate cancer in the end. True to his strong character and loyality in friendship, he kept his laugh and invited friends to meals or to watch Laurel and Hardy shows, all in spite of his uncontrollable pain.
I remember the last time I saw Bruce he shook my hand earnestly and said, simply, he enjoyed all our climbs and friendship. He wished me and my wife Nancy well. Two weeks later, he took his life to end the agony.
As I say, the man.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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