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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 29, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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I "found" this place on Google earth last winter and have spent far too many hours looking for information on this lovely piece of granite. I did find out that allegedly Todd Skinner and Paul Piana did some routes here, free at 12ish, of course. I assume Fred Beckey has been here (out on a limb, I know). Today I finally had the opportunity to drive over the Bighorns without pressing business to tend to, so I took the hike up to see first hand what I built up in my mind. A relatively easy approach (7ish miles of good moderate trail) has me baffled that there is so little information.
Is the north face as yummy as it looks? The east face looks ridiculously hard.
Anybody want to fess up?
North face, +/-1,000'
East Face, +/-1,200'
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 29, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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There is so much stuff in those photos I can't even begin to comment.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 29, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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I've also heard some tales that Steve (Nitro) Petro has done some climbing there. But nothing that I can substantiate...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 29, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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WRM Bighorn Peak is bad ass. I have done a couple of 1500foot mixed routes on the East side which has several cirques on it. I think Piana and Pete Delenoy did a route on the right side of the cirque on the west side. On the east side the rock is very compact and has somewhat of a lack of continuous cracks so the snow and ice help to link together some nice features. The two routes I have participated in were basically huge chimneys that squeezed down after about 500m to the point of putting your back on one side and hands and feet on the other. We climbed water ice in june which is hard to believe when in the Black Hills two hours away it was in the upper 90's when we left. Here are a few pics I have posted before from the chill lake cirque on the east side. It is extremely hard to get into the East side as ther is only a trail for the first half and many times the road is snowed in. Let me know if you want any other info.
I have hiked in to the west side but have not climbed.
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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I hear what you are saying Dingus, and believe me I'd love to be posting a TR instead. The close proximity to the Winds will forever keep the Bighorns in a state of obscurity, and partners up for the "wild" in short supply. After looking at it closely, I need more sack (and a stronger partner, actually my partner needs a stronger partner) to jump on these. I'm not concerned about getting a FA, as I'm sure it has been climbed before.
Mike-Cool shots of yet more BH magic.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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7 miles of humping wall gear will keep it down, especially if the cracks are discontinuous and need bolts to link them. Bolts are heavy.
Anyways, totally dig it. When is the season for rock? Now?
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Munge- Late June to mid September is generally the season.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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I hiked in there "to take a look" in the early '80s. We were very impressed---too impressed to try to actually climb anything. My impression was that there was a lack of continuous crack systems or other obvious lines (at least for a team of our limited abilities and without bolts). It seemed quite an intimidating place compared, for instance, to the areas of the Winds and Sierra that we had climbed in before, but not enticing enough to draw me back (as my abilities remain limited--if not deteriorating)in the intervening years. It is interesting that the area, really so accessible, still retains an aura of mystery even today---there are still plenty of adventures to be had for those willing to have a go,
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Aug 30, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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FA dreamin' now...
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 30, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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is it a disheartening paradox, since nothing about twin lakes cirque was ever lost,
that what allure remains should drive the hastened absence of it's own mystery?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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There have been at least 7 routes put up here by Chris Hirsch and a bunch of strong black hills climbers in the last few years.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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The area has been viewed for climbing for many decades -- there are reasons why not much happens around there. In the mid eighties Steve Babits dropped me off at West Tensleep Lake and I hiked through Lost Twin Lakes Cirque then up and over the divide between Big Horn Peak and Darton Peak and descended into the Chill Lakes Cirque going out east to the highway. Soon after spreading the news Curt Hare and Bob Archbold set out for the Chill Lakes Walls and climbed something.
Steve ?? who worked at Big Horn Mtn Sports back then ask me if I had found his rack that he stashed at the Lost Twin Lakes Cirque.
There are miles and miles of totally unclimbed rock in the Horns compared to the Wind Rive Range -- but something is different -- I noticed and put my time elsewhere. But if you must, what you get is an experience rather than a possession.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 24, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
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These walls top out high on the peaks. Some close to 13,000ft which is very high for the area. I think there is a lot of potential for those with the resources. As high clearance 4 wheel drive will be a big help in some instances.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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I was out there in '88. Hiked to the summit. Was impressed by the potential in the walls. Todd Skinner tried to rope me into an attempt/ascent/ recon in '83 or so, but I must have had something else going on.
Paul Piana lives in Newcastle and is on Facebook. He'd be a lead to follow up!
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