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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 10:44am PT
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I love my Acopa Aztecs! The rubber is incredible! I've been able to climb with extra precision and feel solid on some very precarious edges.
I also think Acopa is a better company to deal with since it won't charge you extra for two different sizes. I think that says a whole lot about the company.
(I do like the Evolv rock star! It is a nice shoe...)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2007 - 12:28am PT
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Here are my fantastic Acopa Aztecs
I've had them since July and used them mostly outdoors, in Tuolumne, Yosemite Valley and Red Rocks. I love these shoes. They were made special, the left is size 10 and the right is size 9½. Here is how they wore for me...
The leather is still tight enough so that it is worth repairing the shoes and resoling and rand-repairing them. The nylon bands that re-enforce the leather died at the first knuckle of both the left and right little toe... the rand also started to separate from the leather... shoe gu tacked them down for a temp fix. The soles started to separate from the rand area, but not so bad. However, the right toe blew through and the right sole wore through.
These shoes climbed with me nearly every weekend, so something like 40 to 50 climbing days of hard work. However, these shoes are in pretty good shape for me.
Here are some details...
From all the jamming, the right shoe outside leather wore through because of the alignment of my little toe first knuckle and the dip in the rand. The blue nylon reenforcement went pretty quickly with both left and right shoe because of jamming.
The sole on the right shoe just at the ball of my foot blew out on the Secret Storm, Doggie Do combination last weekend. Here is what the bottom of the right shoe looks like:
This next ding is probably due to bad foot work, but here is where the rand/sole separated on the right shoe:
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Dam Ed...you wore the hell out of those babies! You should get some JB's - they'll last longer (I think).
You're gonna resole them???? They look pretty wiped out to me (I'm spoiled though - I get fresh pairs all the time).
Thanx for the compliments and good luck!
Cheers, JB
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2007 - 03:35am PT
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I'll probably get a pair of JB's after I get the Aztecs resoled... I am still working on the Chameleons too.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Ed, the acopa JBs have worked out well for me on the cracks. the extra rubber around the heel and toe are so key for anything wide. I haven't seen anything else that is designed with that much on it. This i like for cracks.
still need to put more mileage on them, but so far, performance technicality is good.
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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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This might be useful: I had good luck in tightening a slightly too-large shoe by putting in a heel wedge in the back made of heavy foam tape. Although I have equal size feet I found a half-price pair of Mythos of unequal size that REI had somehow gotten stuck with, and the smaller one was perfect, and the other one only a half-euro size large. Every so often I replace the heel wedge.
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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I got Acopa Aztecs last year after I talked to John. Steve ordered them for me, 12-1/2 and 13 (I have odd feet also)
Awesome shoes. I burned through the factory rubber in 3 or 4 months. But to be fair I was laid off from work and I climbed alot. The resole job seems to be doing well, but I am climbing less because I am working again.
I am going to buy some JBs because I got nice colorful bruises on my ankles from one of the OWs we did, maybe Cookie Left. The hightops should provide some protection I hope.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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the photos from above:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
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well my Legends are blown out by now, and I'm working on my last pair of Aztecs, and the Chameleons that I use in the gym are probably on their last resole.
The search starts up again, 10 years after the OP of this thread.
What's the best shoe on the market these days?
There is a rumor that someone in Mexico is still making the Legend, now called the Diamond, but I don't know how to get in touch with anyone who knows.
I tried Bela's TC-Pros in Tuolumne one day and wasn't impressed at all, even if my friends seem to wear them, I like my Kaukulators bought from eBay much better (especially after Barry does his magic with C4 rubber).
I use shoes hard... so I'm not that interested in finding out the Mythos will just fall apart on me again.
The La Sportiva Katana looks a bit aggressive, but it seems to be well liked, but someone once referred to the rubber as "La Sliptiva" and I haven't gotten that out of my head since.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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The "bum" tells me he'll add some stiffness + c4, to old Syncros, (what had the "sliptiva" rubber on 'em)
I need to send out some shoes.
I've got 2 pairs of blue kauks, one past ready for its 2nd,1/4 replacement And a prized sz40s, climbed on until to far into the rand, an amazing testament to the shoe Absolutely no toe-box deformation. Disintegration of the lining ? that's a whole other issue.
The only current board-lasted climbing shoe I could find, made by, 'butora' (with a " Wide" option), and making the claim "The only boardlasted shoe made" the Mantra, climbing shoe. . . . .
http://www.backcountrygear.com/mantra-regular-men-s-butora.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi7vIBRDpo9W8y7Ct6ZcBEiQA1CwV2EbDg3Q83BK6aKOKm_wm4rWuLuq20w6LFPMrCi9WWlUaAqVI8P8HAQ
Some silly some not reviews.,
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112013652/butora-mantra-wide-shoe-review
Edit:
Ed, here if you missed this
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=63123&msg=2970197#msg2970197
One edge! Scarpa Edge s were great durable stiff and lightweight.
I think I still have two pairs, sz39 Both need fresh 1/4 soles. And feet that fit them. . . B^d
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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How about Boreal Golds? La Spotivas have never really fit my feet so I dunno about those models. I have a pair of Acopas that still have a few resoles in them.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Second on the Boreal Golds, if they fit your heel. If you fit well in a la sportive heel, traditionally, the Boreal heels are not quite right, and the reverse is true. I like the TC pro, but my feet feel 10x more right in a Boreal shape.
Nothing will compare to the stiffness of the Altias. Let go your inner struggle. ;)
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WBraun
climber
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"La Sliptiva"
Lol, that's what I thought too, shitty rubber for granite but works good on European limestone.
So La Sportiva rubber on limestone in Europe is good.
And in US La Sportiva rubber is immediately removed from brand new boots and replaced by C4.
Except for guys like Croft who can climb in roller skates and make us all look like n00bs ......
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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It looks like these guys might make an old guy shoe
http://butorausa.com
I know nothing about them but have sort been looking for new hightop/midtop
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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May 15, 2017 - 10:21pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2017 - 10:44pm PT
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the danger of a rainy day in the Valley, going to the Yosemite Mountain Shop to pick up a repaired cam and hanging out trying on shoes... they have a pretty big supply, and willing salespeople to schlep shoes out from the stock room...
So I tried at least a zillion combinations of the Butora Altra which is their high top... trying to explore just what might fit... Butora will build shoes with different sizes for feet like mine for and additional $25 and time... in the end, nothing seemed to fit.
I did have fun trying on the Evolv Luchador, but these wouldn't work...
A climbing couple from Washington State was in and doing the same thing, and he found a pair of 42 TC Pros for a discount, I tried them on and they fit, and the discount, after negotiations, was so good that I couldn't say no, so I bought them, even though I can't believe I did.
The TC Pros felt fine and I've had some experience climbing in them (I had to borrow Bela's new pair when I mistakenly brought 2 left Legends to climb in Tuolumne once) and I'll figure out a way to make them work. A break in session in the gym, and hopefully an early resole with C4 Stealth.
Next up, maybe a pair of Moccasyms... oops, Five Ten doesn't seem to make them anymore.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2017 - 04:47am PT
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Post adidas, there's major upheaval @five ten
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 16, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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And they still turn your feet red for the first several outings. Just bought my fourth pair a month ago.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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May 16, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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Ed I absolutely LOVE my Evolv Geshidos.
Geshido stands for Get Sh#t Done. Which is an awesome mantra. They start out with a bit of an aggressive toe profile but they fit nicely and the rubber really is amazing. Great on slabs and moderate cracks. The company was very helpful after I bought what I thought was my normal size (10.5) and it turned out that their 10.5 was more like a nine. Maybe worth giving them a call directly. I LOVE this shoe.
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