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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 12:46pm PT
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BTW, John, I spoke with Leslie Dittli at length a couple days ago.
And yes, that was Perry's blue Subaru at the big dig out.
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Good one Doug!
Also, so cool you have our early climbing photos.
That JT/Bailey Canyon goldline belaying shot you recently posted of me is likely fall of '75.
My Dexter hiking boots were purchased before summer school physics class in 1975, and IIRC, our fisrt Josh trip was after the Mineral King backpack trip that same summer. By spring of '76, I had purchsed the red Mammut rope. Also, by then, I had red PAs and you wore brown RDs.
From that backpack trip, with your dad, summer '75, at the base of Sawtooth Peak, my first Sierra scramble:
Thanks for pulling that trip together for us!
Tarbuster, Andy, and that suave North Face Tuolumne tent.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 15, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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Rose Van McDonald.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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... or Rudy McNugget ... or ...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Cool Roy.. You're part of the Tamarack alumni ! I'm living down the hill from the dittlis now.. Did a drive by this morning...Their house overlooks Crooked Creek and a large meadow where the Basque graze sheep...
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 15, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
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Doug, Ellen Munoz sitting in front of the Hidden Valley sign?
Great memories of Andy dude. I believe it was your parents that told me I was growing on them :)
We were all so strange back then and not many chicks hung with you buggerers...
DE heavy. Sounds like some great experiences with a good friend.
Enjoying the stories, keep it up. Perhaps more about your dad...
Jeff, we're all looking forward to more of your contributions from BITD. Appreciate the time and energy.
Bushman, more Tobin stories!
V
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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MoLinky, cranking the gumdrop:
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 15, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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Keep it coming Roy. Great Stuff!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 15, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
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Doug's father Andy......we named the route "Andy Dude" at Suicide after him.
Sawtooth Peak was an early peak for me as well. Soon after my father died on Split Mountain his friend Valerie Cooley took me there and she and I bagged it....maybe 1970. She also took me on a rafting trip on the Stanislaus River right before one of the big dams was finished. It was soon after that that part of the canyon was flooded forever (?) and that whitewater erased.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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Your old man died on Split Mountain, wow.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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E, Fred Ziel, Trono, after summiting the Pan-Am, October 79:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 15, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Thanks Roy, not familiar with the John Wolfe era crew. Gotta love the Munoz'
Love that photo too ; ) Met E three months after that climb.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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Being part Viking, and knowing many, I gotta say I've never seen one like
The E with such a righteous 'fro. Gotta be a story there, even if only
of interest to geneticists.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:10pm PT
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Here you go, Vikki, an excerpt from Randy's article, posted way up thread:
Interestingly, when Doug and I first started climbing in what was then "The Monument", we only knew about the Desert Rats, because John Wolfe and Bob Dominick had produced the only guidebook. So we were totally ignorant of the Stonemasters, who were already in full force.
For instance, a benchmark Stonemaster climb in Yosemite, Astroman, had been done in 1975. In 1976, the following winter, our first year at Josh (we were both 15), we knew nothing of it. We knew nothing of The Vampire, at Tahquitz … or Largo, or Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, Bachar, et al. Just the Desert Rats. As far as we knew, they were the dudes!
IIRC, in that original (or early) orange Wolfe/Dominick guidebook, there was a picture of John Long soloing White Lightning, on Hemingway Buttress.
Before there was a Tapes brothers, there was just Steve, of Steve and Dave Tapes. I wish I knew Steve's last name. (Dave Tapes a.k.a. Dave Wonderly). Steve pointed this picture out to me from one of those early guidebooks of Largo, climbing that route without a rope. This was where I first learned about about the activity of free soloing. And John long.
Another tidbit, John Wolfe's wife, Mona Wolfe, is the mother of the Stahl brothers. The person who has been posting here as Stahlbro, is Rob Stahl.
Doug and I used to see Dave Stahl, when he was just a scraggly blond haired kid, even younger than we were, (he was 13 years old I believe), running all over the rocks looking honed. One day we saw him top roping Water Chute, 5.9. We thought he was bad ass. For his age, he probably was!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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E, The Viking, Humdinger, Yosemite:
photo, Shawn Curtis
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 15, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
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A classic early shot of Juan Largo pulling hard on thin dime holds.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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!!! Thin crimps, big fella ... looks desperate!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 15, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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And, yes, Craig Fry was on the FA of Last Unicorn and lead a section (like the rest of us). He drilled the third bolt. This is above the acid traverse (which was boldly lead by Dave Evans), in the thin corner section. We took turns drilling. After Craig came down, I finished up to the belay ledge and drilled a bolt and placed a fixed pin (at that large, grey pointed flake, far up and left of the corner).
[There is a "story" about that bolt and fixed pin when Hensel and I went up to do a second pitch...]
Jim Angione either eating or smoking something and DE belaying.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 15, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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Wow
Such beautiful rock
Got anymore pics from that day
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 15, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
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Wow Roy, so thoughtful! Thanks for the history, insight, and another nice photo.
Rellly, Viking on father's side...hair from the mother's side : )
Randy, nice photos and the rock is beautiful. Thanks. Bring em on...
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