Show Me What You're Building!!

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climber

away from the ground

Nov 13, 2015 - 12:48pm PT

TJI- check out Waterlox. Also a 1/1/1 poly/linseed/mineral spirits would work for you. It's a forgiving finish to learn with. Practice on cut offs before you commit to the big slab - many projects are bumbled in the finishing stage.

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Nov 13, 2015 - 12:51pm PT

I'll check out the waterlox. I was a painter for four years, so got good at the finishing part. Big thanks for all the advice.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Nov 13, 2015 - 01:07pm PT

J, I wasn't making fun of you regarding the dowels. Dowels or biscuits do
help to align the boards but they don't add any strength. The edge joint
is plenty strong. In fact I find it easier to apply the glue (using
Titebond Extend gives you more time), make sure it is relatively even, then
put the dowels or biscuits in dry as they are just for alignment. Also
remember that you don't need 10 tons of pressure or you will squeeze all
the glue out - just enough pressure to get a nice even ooze-out.

Re: water-based finishes check out Target Coatings. They make all kinds
and most can be either brushed or sprayed. They also make a water-based
shellac which is amazing - great for a sanding sealer that adds some warmth.
I particularly like the EM2000 alkyd varnish. It is self-sealing and gives
a really nice warm tone like oil-based finishes. If you're aiming for a
piano finish then be sure to get some of their SA5 Retarder which you
can add up to 5% by volume to get better flow-out, especially if you spray.

http://targetcoatings.com/

Waterlox is good stuff and it can be applied with a rag or anything but it
doesn't build that fast. It does look good though. Of course, you can't
buy it in SoCal because it ain't 'green' enough.

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Nov 13, 2015 - 01:27pm PT

Haha, you can make fun of me whenever Reilly. I'd rather spray, so will look into the target brand too. Great advice.

climber

away from the ground

Nov 13, 2015 - 01:28pm PT

TJI- If you have finishing experience, check out Reilly's suggestion. Waterlox is a tung oil based product, and it does build up slowly with a long dry time/cure time. Is quite nice when all done though.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 13, 2015 - 05:48pm PT

always an awesome thread...
I'm not a craftsman, but I enjoy turning a pile of material into a structure

FRUMY

Trad climber

Bishop,CA

Nov 13, 2015 - 06:34pm PT

Still my favorite thread.

Edge

Trad climber

Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO

Nov 13, 2015 - 08:27pm PT

I just found this video of the recording studio that we created over the course of the last year, beginning with a former radio station and converting it into one of the premier studios in Colorado. My contributions began with demo and included concrete work, framing, metal work, insulating, flooring, tiling, all finish work, and onsite built-ins and finishing, and a whole lotta stuff I won't disclose.

Woo!

[Click to View YouTube Video]

SGropp

Mountain climber

Eastsound, Wa

Nov 14, 2015 - 11:00pm PT

Rough forged elements for a big garden railing project in progress.

Mostly forged from 1 1/4'' to 2'' solid steel bar.

SGropp

Mountain climber

Eastsound, Wa

Nov 14, 2015 - 11:03pm PT

SGropp

Mountain climber

Eastsound, Wa

Nov 14, 2015 - 11:04pm PT

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Nov 15, 2015 - 10:58am PT

Nice Gropp!

steveA

Trad climber

Wolfeboro, NH

Nov 15, 2015 - 12:38pm PT

This is a great thread!

Nice work Lauren and SGropp!

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Nov 15, 2015 - 01:54pm PT

Man, impressive shop. Where did you come by the caged Little Giant?

SGropp

Mountain climber

Eastsound, Wa

Nov 15, 2015 - 02:51pm PT

Both the green 25# and 100# Little Giant power hammers were bought fully rebuilt from the Little Giant Company in Nebraska many years ago. Even though no new hammers have been built since the fifties some parts are still available. These are the same style and sizes of hammers used in the early days at Chouinard Equipment and the Great Pacific Ironworks.

I also have a 1924 Beaudry #7 hammer with a 200# ram that I bought sight unseen from a tool forge in Massachusetts that was being converted to condos. I spent about a year in my spare time getting it set up and running again. It is a fantastic tool, being able to hit both really , really hard or just soft feathering blows.
All three hammers have an electric motor constantly driving a heavy flywheel. The foot treadle engages a clutch mechanism that drives the hammer head via a crank and spring linkage.
This leaves both hands free to manipulate the hot steel between the hammer die and the anvil. The force and speed of the blow are controlled by foot pressure.
The mechanical hammers have the advantage of being fairly simple to keep in adjustment and consume relatively little power to run.
The forge shop floor is dirt but the hammers all have massive concrete foundation blocks below grade.
This kind of work has a lot in common with climbing, a lot of cool gear, the requirements of a constant focus and the ability to look ahead to avoid mistakes and the constant opportunity to get really badly hurt if you let your attention wander.

Doing this for a living and raising a family by it is definitely not for the faint of heart !

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Nov 15, 2015 - 03:01pm PT

Ah, didn't see the little one in the back of the pillar - nice. Lot of stuff to get out to an island. As I said, impressive shop and equally impressive work. Where did you learn / apprentice?

[ Edit: found your site: http://www.salamanderforge.com/index.htm (your contact page is throwing an error) ]