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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2015 - 03:48am PT
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The 1976 Boardman/Tasker Route on the West Wall of Changabang
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 13, 2015 - 06:14am PT
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Hey, Avery:
Just read both accounts by the two recently. This climb was so badass, so visionary. I think of the ascent of Meru/Shark's Fin as the modern incarnation of this historic climb.
Sadly, like the wingsuit pilots we've been discussing on other threads, these were two dudes right at the limit. RIP, brothers.
Everyone should read Boardman's and Tasker's books!
BAd
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jul 13, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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Awesome... I bet if there were wingsuits back then, both would have flown off!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 13, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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Another two thumbs up for their books, both of them were outstanding writers.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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They trained for the cold by bivying in meat coolers in UK.
They traveled overland to the mountains.
Then they did that totally badass climb.
They each wrote a book about the experience; Tasker The Savage Arena and Boardman The Shining Mountain. Anyone interested in really wild times in high places should read these books. Better yet, The Boardman Tasker Omnibus includes two more of their books with a foreword by Chris Bonington.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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I just got done with Savage Arena. Great read.
It reminded me of this quote from Repo Man:
"Ordinary people spend their life trying to avoid intense situations, Repo Men spend their life getting into intense situations."
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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Have read Savage Arena a couple of times. Those guys were incredibly tough and Changabang was a massive undertaking for those times. Curiously, they both cut their teeth in the Alps rather than Yosemite, even though the climb seemed to be an ideal "big wall" under alpine conditions rather than your typical brutal Himalayan slog. They were using hammocks for crying out loud!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 11:19pm PT
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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Tasker still missing on Everest. . . perhaps the most befitting of an avante guard alpinist.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 01:29am PT
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jul 14, 2015 - 05:44am PT
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One of the best two man trips!
Ever.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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Thanks DMT. An excellent article.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 14, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
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A great climb. Fully ten years ahead of it's time. Those two books fueled my alpine passions and drove me from the Sierra to the Andes. Alas, I was not quite as much of a hardman as Boardman and Tasker, but I had some great times, inspired directly by this climb!
TY
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Jul 16, 2015 - 07:42am PT
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I loved reading all their books...Thanks for all these Alpinism threads Avery!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 16, 2015 - 07:51am PT
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What a team eh?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 10:44pm PT
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Bump, for two legendary climbers and writers.
If anyone wants an old copy of the 'The Shining Mountain', just let me know.
I've got one to give away.
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