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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Great story and photos, Jim! Thanks for sharing.
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steve shea
climber
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Great story on the GCC Jim. The introspection and "line in the snow" comments speak to the nature of the climb. You guys did it. Really good tale!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Love these stories! Such a wild place. Some awesome pictures.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Great story and photos, Jim. Thanks a bunch.
Being an ex Teton dink, I remember a picture of a Dave Jenkins 3rd classin' the steep pitch on the Run-Don't-Walk Couloir on Mt. Owen in the Jenny Lake ranger station. I can only assume it's the same guy (??)
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Castiella
Trad climber
Donostia, spain
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Jan 12, 2015 - 08:01am PT
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Mountain 60 (p.14): "joe Kaelin and Bill Pilling made the third ascent of the right-hand route (ramp route?) on mt. Kitchener's north face. The ascent was hampered by the fact that Pilling broke his ice axe just above the bergschrund, so the two days' climbing time was spread over three". 1977.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 31, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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hey there say, ... wow, i just found a great chappy story... thanks mark!
will read this now... :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 31, 2015 - 08:47pm PT
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hey there say... wow, great photos from jim, up posts, there... and from avery... very nice shares... :)
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Feb 22, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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Hi Avery,
I just recently scanned these old slides from Tobin and Jack Roberts' ascent. Don't know the exact date but I think it was the winter of 1978-79.
The avalanche was in the morning before doing the route. They were camped near the bottom of a snow field below the face. Tobin said they heard a cracking as the summit cornices broke and he shot a picture as the ice roared down the face towards them, then they dived into the tent as if it would do any good. As they cowered in what they thought would be their tomb, there was a loud 'Foomf' sound as the avalanche hit the tent. They climbed out to find a foot deep of ice crystal snow had harmlessly swept over and deposited onto them. Agreement was made then and there to start the climb before another avalanche scoured the route.
Any other info regarding this ascent would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Tim
Here's the link to the the seperate thread on this ascent
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2584071/Sorenson-Roberts-Grand-Central-Couloir-Mt-Kitchener
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Feb 22, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
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Thanks for your generosity Bushman. These pics are a genuine slice of climbing history.
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cheesenuts
Trad climber
Burnaby, BC
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Feb 22, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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I see a lot of references to 'reasonably cold alpine conditions in the summer back then' in many posts. Can someone elaborate on the 'back then' part of this?
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