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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 15, 2014 - 07:34am PT
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Hello everyone, sorry for the translation:
I wanted to ask a question to you experts of Denali, and here in Supertopo forum, I have the luck, and thank you to have many experienced mountaineers and kind. So, I would ask what you think of RIDGE OF NO RETURN in Denali, that one of my great mountaineer, who was often in my city (SALUZZO) (worked for CAMP) RENATO CASAROTTO, I think one of the greatest mountaineers!
Renato Casarotto said:
The last 3500 to 4000 vertical feet were Climbed first along a snow-and-ice wall, then on mixed ground, and finally on snow and ice again. The steepest part of this section Reached 65th. I left Base Camp on April 29 and the top of Point Reached 15,000 at 9:30 PM on May 11.The was hindered by bad weather on the first seven days; this was Followed by five days of good weather. The ridge is three miles long and rises 7000 feet. I used five rock and six ice pitons along with one deadman for protection. I used no fixed rope, left nothing on the mountain and alpine-style Climbed (Said Renato Casarotto)
I would like to ask, this great route is one of the hardest of the DENALI? Some of you did it and what difficulties did you encounter?
Thanks for the answers. Greetings to everyone.
Gigi (Waterman2)
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 15, 2014 - 07:45am PT
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I'm thinking..........TROLL
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10b4me
climber
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Dec 15, 2014 - 08:08am PT
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Not a troll
AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org
Mount McKinley, Ridge of No Return
The Ridge of No Return is the southeast-trending ridge which descends from Point 15,000 on Mount McKinley’s South Buttress before ending on the west fork of the Ruth Glacier. It lies approximately one kilometer to the south-southwest of the Isis route. From Base Camp on the Ruth Glacier, I passed solo under the north face of Mount Huntington to arrive at the foot of the route. It begins on a 1000-foot-high triangular snow face at the southern or left end of the enormous snow-and-ice wall which forms the vertical east face of the southeast spur. After reaching its top, in order to continue along the southeast ridge, it is necessary to pass through a series of enormous cornices of all shapes and sizes, overhanging in different directions. Several grade-5 rock towers were passed in this section, although the climbing was predominantly snow and ice. The climbing was always very exposed and dangerous, with many vertical and overhanging sections on both snow and ice, some of the most difficult I have ever encountered.
The last 3500 to 4000 vertical feet were climbed first along a snow-and-ice wall, then on mixed ground, and finally on snow and ice again. The steepest part of this section reached 65°. I left Base Camp on April 29 and reached the top of Point 15,000 at 9:30 P.M. on May 11.I was hindered by bad weather on the first seven days; this was followed by five days of good weather. The ridge is three miles long and rises 7000 feet. I used five rock and six ice pitons along with one deadman for protection. I used no fixed rope, left nothing on the mountain and climbed alpine-style.
I made a new descent which lies about 1/3 mile to the east of the standard descent route on the steep portion of the South Buttress route. My descent involved about 3500 feet of 70° water ice and is not recommended. During the descent I watched a team of three fall from an ice wall. I realized it was impossible for me to give any immediate help and so I decided to get to Kahiltna Base Camp as fast as possible to call for the rescue helicopter. I walked all night and the next morning met some climbers who lent me skis. The rescue team, which I joined, could save them.
Renato Casarotto, Club Alpino Italiano
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Dec 15, 2014 - 10:34am PT
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I'm also voting "not a troll". I think there's a kneejerk reaction to seeing the name Waterman, which is eternally linked to the notion of epic Denali adventures, and for whom the term "no return" is disturbingly relevant.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 15, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
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He is no troll. Just a guy who really appreciates the history of the AK range and would like more info.. Can't blame him. I love some of the discussions he has started. Some stuff you cant find anywhere else.
Unfortunately I dont know much about this route, nothing more than what I read years ago in Watermans book. Seemed pretty gnarly.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Dec 15, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Unless he starts posting links to "Gofundmyexpedition" BS, there is no point to trolling.
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Dec 15, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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The Ridge of No Return was repeated just once- it was around 2003, by a French team who also climbed the French/Northwest Ridge of Huntington on the same trip. Apparently, this team like cornices!
The Ridge of No Return, in technical terms, is nowhere near to being Denali's hardest route. Routes like the Slovak, Light Traveler, and the Denali Diamond are much harder and much longer routes.
That being said, its corniced sections in the middle of the ridge make a good candidate, along with the Happy Cowboys on Mount Hunter's South Ridge and the French Ridge on Mount Foraker, as one of the most serious and committing corniced ridges in the Alaska Range.
When I climbed the nearby Isis Face in 2008, I had a good look directly over to the middle section. There were a couple parts that looked full value. Staying directly on the ridge looked nearly impossible in a couple spots.
Here's two photos taken from Isis:
Casarotto had some cajones to take on those cornice sections using only sliding prusik knots on a line as his self belay. Apparently he took a huge fall off the ridge at one spot, and also was able to get around many of the cornices by traversing far below them.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Dec 15, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Holy crap.... Cornices from Hell!
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Dec 15, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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I think he was using dual sliding knots, which would certainly be safer. I seem to recall in the account that he was surprised that his self belay and anchors held in his 90' fall.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 15, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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Stuff like that scares me a hell of a lot more than most "technical routes" not that I have the skill anymore or ever the experience to do the hard technical routes. But from an objective hazard point of view that corniced stuff is just...horible.
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
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Hello everyone, first of all I want to thank CLIMBSKI2 that he told the truth, I'm not a troll, but a great lover of adventure climbing,
"""""""He is no troll. Just a guy who really appreciates the history of the AK
range and would like more info.. Can't blame him. I love some of the discussions he has started. Some stuff you cant find anywhere else"""""
And even 10b4mefor the story of Casarotto
and even Mr. MARKWESTMAN for photos and explanation of the route. And also thanks to all the others that I have responded Thanks. Maybe my questions may seem naive or another, but I like to learn and know about these great routes, their technical difficulty and everything else.
Certainly since I met the great WATERMAN (from the book of Kraukauser into the wild) I was amazed by this great mountaineer, (UNKNOWN in Italy and perhaps in Europe), however, are not a troll (who wants to see my profile goes on Yahoo Answers Italy in the section Climbing-Arrampicata (I am gigi81vitcon) Anyway, you have a little patience for my questions, and if you answer me do me much pleasure
A big hello to all and best wishes
Ps. Excuse-me for language.
@@@@@ Mr. BRUCE KAY :
AAA Bruce Kay,.
Having the article written by casarotto on his technique autosicura climbing, write it:
Casarotto has always done its great climbing solo with this system for autosicura. he strove 2 lanyards 6 mm doing 2 knots PRUSIK tied to one end of the rope, and slid them as he climbed, more as a cushion to stop starting put his heavy backpack (on average 30-40kg) that in case of a fall, it was a shock absorber (hard for me to explain that I do not know the language well)
However, in all his great climbing (I have two books and many articles on Casarotto, has always used the system for AUTOSICURA (I can not translate it) with two lanyards Nylon 6mm in diameter, which he ran as they climbed, after course have blocked the rope departing with heavy backpack that served as SINK (SHOCK absorber)
He always used this system.
Best regard
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2014 - 08:09am PT
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Good morning Mr. Bruce Kay (I could speak English, perdindirindina !!!!) Then, Renato Casarotto is considered in Italy, France Spain ect one of the greatest mountaineers of all time, his great climbs worldwide prove it (I have a friend, with whom I climbed (by us very famous, GUIDO GHIGO) that climbed along with Casarotto a month in CANADA '(to do a month of climbing frozen waterfalls (including POLAR CIRCUS) speak of the 80, (30 waterfalls in 30 days (Casarotto- Grassi - Ghigo) However my friend Ghigo told me that Casarotto (always first climber and the other two behind was impressive as was topping !! A force of nature, a GREAT mountaineer !!!!
However the system of 2 prusik with lanyards 6 mm. the Casarotto it strove in solitary in all soils (ROCK- ICE- MIXED) He always used this system until his death. One of his masterpieces (15 BIVOUACS SOLO WINTER Without radio is the SUPER INTEGRALE FULL PEUTEREY of the Mont Blanc (4810m.
This is one of two books that I possess.
"Beyond the Winds of the North"
Renato Casarotto
Five months of climbing
in North America.
The frozen waterfalls
of Canada,
a great new way
on McKinley,
climbing in Colorado,
Wyoming and California.
Thirty-seven years old, a resume of ascents exceptional Renato Casarotto is absolutely one of the
strongest exponents of 'touring internationally in recent years.
Became established in the past decade as one of the largest dolomitisti of all time, in 1974, with
an exploit exceptional for the time the first solo winter street "Simon-Smith" to the North
Pelmo reveals his true, great vocation: that of climbing solo, a specialty in
which will touch the highest levels so far expressed by the history of 'mountaineering world.
From that 'year Casarotto begins a formidable progression that led him to open the first routes
VII degree of the Dolomites and paves the way for the great mountains beyond.
And here, in 1977, an outstanding enterprise, then unthinkable and still unrepeated: in 17 days from opening
only a grand new route on the north face of Huascaran in the Cordillera white; in 1979, with
another legendary ascent, still in solitary, links its name to the legendary North Pillar of Fitz Roy, in
Patagonia. Then, from L to 15 February 1982 realizes his company more beautiful: the Triptych of Mont Blanc,
a solitary climb - was written - "worthy of the great tradition of mountaineering not only but of all
the human adventure in the broadest sense. "
But the list of ascents lonely stretches of Casarotto yet. In the summer of 1983 here yet
another important step in the history of mountaineering: the first ascent dell'inviolato spur
Northern North of Broad Peak (7600 m), the highest mountain of Pakistan yet to climb, a
climb 2500 meters in altitude lasted 10 days.
The last, large enterprise alpinist Vicenza, in March 1985, is the first winter solitary
Street Gervasutti-Gagliardone the East of the Grandes Jorasses: how to tell the greatest ascension
coldest winter of the century.
And still there is the North America, where in 1984 the mountaineer has proven to be able to move at the highest
levels of all three land that the mountain offers. There are those who excels on the rock, some on ice, those on
mixed terrain.
A few, like Casarotto, manage to touch the highest summits of his age knowing all live
experiences that the mountain offers. From waterfalls to the loneliness of the Canadian McKinley, from canyon
Colorado to the smooth walls of California, in his first book (to which others will follow)
Casarotto recounts the experiences of five months in American life.
http://www.sas-sas.it/images/Pdf%20Casarotto%20-Oltre%20i%20Venti%20del%20Nord-.pdf
Many Regards
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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Good Morning Mr.Bruce Kay
RENATO CASAROTTO :
The trilogy of Frêney ( SUPER INTEGRALE DI PEUTEREY)
In 1982 Casarotto performs an assemblage, a triptych, which was thought for many years. It was the chaining lonely winter of three difficult routes in the basin of Frêney, without having climbed earlier. Casarotto had already tried unsuccessfully in 1980 starting from the south ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, but he had to stop the tower Welzenbach. In 1982 it tries again, this time to the west face of the Aiguille Noire.
On 1 February 1982 begins the approach to the base of the wall, with a backpack of 40 kg, containing a curtain of Gore-Tex and the equipment and food for many days of climbing. It is no radio and did not set supply depots. The day after the attacks via Ratti-Vitali on the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. On the evening of February 4, it reaches the top, down and sleeping in the next day begins a difficult descent towards the glacier of Freney, then go up it, the day 6, up to the attack of the street-Gervasutti Boccalatte to Peak Gugliermina.
From February 7 to 9 rooms the way Gervasutti-Boccalatte, in strong snow, and the last day under a snowfall. Then reach the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and descends to the Col de Peuterey where bivouacked in a snow cave.
On February 11, ATTACKS THE BONINGTON ROUTE CENTRAL PILLAR OF FRENEY After two days come to the base of the Chandelle, the most difficult stretch of the road. Exceeds this wall in difficult weather conditions and 14 February to the summit of Mont Blanc, immersed in fog. The next day down to Chamonix on the French side, who had never Casarotto path.
GIAN CARLO GRASSI :
Gian Carlo Grassi from his resume (Curriculum - Palmarès) shows that the fat has ever climbed (HAS NEVER CLIMBED) nor mountains of the Himalayas in 8000, and even the mountains of 7,000m.
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In the late seventies Grassi is passionate nascent climbing the frozen waterfalls, and it soon becomes the protagonist. Fats also manages to bring the technique of the falls in the high mountains and becomes specialist ascent of so-called ghost couloir, gullies where only winter snow and ice create a route.
In recent years knows Gianni Comino and he made a series of important ascents of Mont Blanc. In 1978 he opened a new gully on the north face of the Aiguille Verte and the Ypercouloir on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. In the summer of 1979 make the ascent of two extremely dangerous seracs: July 4 the serac Col Maudit and August 11, one on the left of the Pear. And it is on a serac that a few months later, Gianni Comino, just twenty-eight, loses his life. On 28 February 1980, after a thorough study of the conditions of the terrain, Comino attempting alone climb the serac right of the Pear, but towards the exit a collapse of ice precipitates.
After the disappearance of Comino Grassi continues his exploration of new ice climbing waterfalls across the Piedmont and Valle d'Aosta in Valle Orco, Valli di Lanzo, Susa Valley, Val Varaita Val di Cogne. Scala also abroad: California, Canada, the Andes, Patagonia, the Himalayas. In 1984 with RENATO CASAROTTO AND GUIDO GHIGO salt Pomme d'Or in Quebec (180 meters stalactite), POLAR CIRCUS and Slipstream (cascade of 900 meters) in the Canadian Rockies. In 1985 with Mauro Rossi repeats the way Supercanaleta to Fitz Roy.
A forty-four, still in the prime of his mountaineering activity, Grassi is killed on 1 April 1991 after climbing an icefall on Mount Bove, in the Monti Sibillini, for the posting of a snow cornice.
Best Regards.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 16, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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Renato Casarotto
 Solo Di Cordata Demo
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Renato Casarotto, one of the best solo climbers of all time, one of the purest and least celebrated mountaineers of all time "remembered by the people who knew him well"
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 16, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Some of Casarotto's most significant climbs in the Alps:
Via Solleder - Sass Maor - dicembre 1972 - Salita invernale con Adriana Valdo, Renato Gobbato, Renzo Timellero, Paolo e Ludovico Cappellari.
Monte Civetta/Torre Trieste - 18-19 marzo 1973 - Salita invernale con Diego Campi, allora quindicenne.
Monte Civetta - agosto 1973 - Traversata integrale con Giacomo Albiero in cinque giorni e salendo 22 cime con 4.000 metri di dislivello.
Via Casarotto-Campi - Pasubio/Soglio Rosso - 1º maggio 1973 - Prima salita con Diego Campi, 270 m/VI+.
Spigolo Strobel - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero - marzo 1974 - Prima invernale con Diego Campi e Piero Radin.
Via Simon-Rossi - Pelmo - 19-23 dicembre 1974 - Prima solitaria invernale.
Via Andrich-Faè - Monte Civetta - 22-27 febbraio 1975 - Prima solitaria invernale.
Via Casarotto-Radin - Pale di San Lucano/Spiz di Lagunaz - 8-11 giugno 1975 - Prima salita con Piero Radin.
Via Casarotto - Cima Busazza - 1976 - Prima salita con Giuseppe Cogato e Giacomo Albero, 1000 m/ED.
Via Casarotto-De Donà - Pale di San Lucano/Spiz di Lagunaz - 1977 - Prima salita con Bruno De Donà, Casarotto la valuta di VII grado.
Goulotte Comino-Grassi-Casarotto - Aiguille Verte - 18 luglio 1978 - Prima salita con Gianni Comino e Gian Carlo Grassi, parte nord, 1000 m IV/4+.
Trilogia del Frêney: via Ratti-Vitali sull'Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, via Gervasutti-Boccalatte sul Picco Gugliermina e via classica al Pilone Centrale del Freney - 1-15 febbraio 1982 - Concatenamento in solitaria invernale e senza depositi di rifornimenti.
Diedro Cozzolino - Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza - dal 30 dicembre 1982 al 9 gennaio 1983 - Prima invernale e in solitaria.
Via Casarotto-Grassi - Pic Tyndall - 29 settembre 1983 - Prima salita con Gian Carlo Grassi, 1300 m/ED.
Via Gervasutti - Grandes Jorasses - marzo 1985 - Prima solitaria invernale, 550 m/ED.
Wikipedia
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If
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 22, 2015 - 02:20am PT
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I remember when Casarotto climbed this route, there's an amazing photo of his little red Ferrino tent pitched under one of those massive cornices.Maybe someone can find it, I can't.
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