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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 26, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Did you name it 'Tale of the Skunk'?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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Looks like fun.
A single locking 'biner at your TR master point?
OK...as you like it.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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from Climbing Anchors by John Long and Bob Gaines pg 169
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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moosedrool I got nothing yet.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 26, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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Niiiiccce!!!! I'm jealous that you got to do something over 30 feet long. THat equalette set up is pretty sweet isn't it. I'm liking it myself...and I think it's pretty quick to rig (speaking from a slowpokes point of view that is). Just have to remember to rig the clove hitches right relative the spine of the carabiner.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 26, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Looks fine. Will you die? Probably not. (Obviously not.)
There's lots more movement at a TR master point, though...my personal preference is for two 'biners there.
Others will disagree. That's fine.
Beautiful location.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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There's lots more movement at a TR master point, though...my personal preference is for two 'biners there. I prefer two also, but couldn't find another (they were hiding amongst all the cams). For some reason, whenever I think of using one locker and one regular crab I feel like mixing them would be bad. No idea why I feel that way.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 26, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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I think that picture is simply illustrating a specific method of creating an equalized anchor- not specifically a TR anchor.
Rope moving through that master point has greater potential to move that 'biner around, perhaps into a position that wasn't intended, or open a gate. (The way you've got it positioned, though, is pretty good- free hanging, less likely to push against the rock.) For the purposes of easy rope movement, I generally prefer two of the same type of 'biner at a TR master point- preferably not a 'D', because they tend to pinch the rope (creating drag) when opposed. Ovals work nicely there- rope moves smoothly through them.
Again, others will probably have differing opinions. My opinion comes from institutional applications (teaching climbing for groups), where TR's get lots and lots of mileage.
Apologies for any thread drifting...
Edit: As mentioned below, 3 oval 'biners at the TR master point makes for smoother rope movement (not a safety thing)- wider radius in the rope's bend. It's the kind of subtle benefit that becomes apparent after running TR's all day long....
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adam d
climber
CA
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Nov 26, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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New tr crags are fun. Fun, low commitment exploration. If you didn't have to clean it, safe bet others have done so already.
I'm into 3 ovals for tr master points. Also, bombproof trumps self-equalizing for tr anchors too...shouldn't be a whole lot of different directions of pull on a top rope. I love magic x's in multipitch anchors but hardly use 'em in top ropes.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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New tr crags are fun. Fun, low commitment exploration. If you didn't have to clean it, safe bet others have done so already.
I'm into 3 ovals for tr master points. Also, bombproof trumps self-equalizing for tr anchors too...shouldn't be a whole lot of different directions of pull on a top rope. I love magic x's in multipitch anchors but hardly use 'em in top ropes. Couple of points.
1st- It was filthy. Definitely needs cleaning and lots of large loose stuff everywhere. Also no evidence of anyone making a small flat spot for a belay stance.
2nd- When building the anchor I was reasonably sure I'd be belaying from somewhere up there. Only after tossing the ropes did we find out both ends barely reached.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 27, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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Apogee, I appreciate the drift/discussion. From my perspective, it's good to here other peoples perspective along with reasoning for doing. If you look, there are some real gems buried in this site.... and I too use 3 ovals for TR'ing, a'la Bob Gaines.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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same here apogee,
even if i don't follow every bit of advice given it doesn't mean i don't appreciate it as i am the new guy here. i should probably post that pic and the pics of the rest of the anchor over in the 'supertopo be my mentor' thread
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2013 - 03:34am PT
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went back out today just to poke around and would have to say it is mostly a choss pile with great views.
have some more pics on my camera but it's out in the car and i'm cozy inside.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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I always post one of the help to watch master points.
I'm surprised at your cheapiosity, guys, but I applaud your safety concerns, really--I do!
Seriously.
but
I remember when I used my ONLY biners on the pro, one at a time, like,
"It vass good enough for Preuss, but dot sort of ting vill kill me, so I had better get a yob."
When I was a gumby...
"Feckit! Let's just go and do it."
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