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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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The article that follows, written by Gabe Regan, was published in Crags Magazine during the Gritsone Revolution that took place in the mid 70s. Crags was a relatively short lived magazine, quite irreverent, which took some delight in taking the piss out of the stars of the day.
Articles like this were information life blood. BITD before the internet articles such as these were pretty much the only way you found out what was going on outside your own patch.
I can't recall if this article preceded or followed on the back of Bancroft's interim guide 'Recent Developments on Gritstone' The entire booklet was such a sandbag it would be highly valued in Afghanistan!
Usual disclaimers apply.
Steve
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Nov 11, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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TFPU
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nov 11, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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Classic-more!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 11, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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Classic-moor!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 11, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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when was the last photo (of steve Bancroft) taken? the text is too small for me to read and there is no caption
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 11, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Cool stuff, awesome photos, keep posting!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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It's not captioned in the article, but the photo was taken on the FA. This is recorded as the 16 May 76.
Steve
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 11, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Blakey, man oh man, keep on the scan.
Lovin' the sh#t out of the grit!
Are you a Brit?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 13, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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Steve,
I remember Crags; we used to get the occasional copy in Southern California mountain shops.
That last shot is amazing.
Rick
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Hi Rick,
It is a famous photo, and the route remains a burly if well protected challenge. I'd guess it's a right of passage nowadays.
I've done it a couple of times, but never as effortlessly as Bancroft appears in this photo - there's no sign of strain at all!
Regards,
Steve
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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In the second photo from the top, are those old bolt holes above the mini roof?
I'm curious, bolts aren't really employed on grit, right?
Thanks for the share.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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^^^
Hi Brandon,
White Wall is in Millstone Edge Quarry. The thin cracks in the walls were pegged as aid/aid practice, way back in the day. Eventually in the mid 70s they had got big enough, and climbers strong enough to start freeing them.
Once they were free climbed, the informal rule was that they would only be done on clean aid, rather than pegged - the same as in the US around the same time - no...
There are I think, some small holes on White Wall, finger sized, which had a fixed protection peg therin (Not sure if it's there now.). It's possible that the hole was climber made (but it would be a big, big drill - so unlikely). More likely it was the stub of some quarry drilling, there's lots of these, both verticle ferrules, and horizontal holes in our quarries.
There are I think, still some ancient, rusting bolts, or the stubs or sheaths on Grit, but practice and ethics dating back to the early 70s made them a no no.
Steve
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 13, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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Fun seeing the old Crags articles, thanks.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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A second Grit bump
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 14, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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Nice effort, Blakey, to dig out that old article & CRAGS Magazine! And what a World Class shot of Bancroft on Stapodichtomy. One should get Newman to sell some original silver prints...! Until that happends I will have to make do with my own copy of Crags issue #9.
A few weeks ago I managed to get up another of Bancrofts routes, Carlsberg Direct in Gothenburg, Sweden. Fingercrack, crimps, quite scary - and great. FA in 1979:
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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