Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2006 - 11:44pm PT
|
My partner and I started up the pitch right when the light was just starting to hit the roof itself, it was like the sun was slowly starting to reveal what lay ahead:
The sun really starting to illuminate the roof:
As my partner reached the roof, the stone was glowing. Looked sooooo inviting.
By the time my partner finished the pitch, the rock was glowing and ready for me. The sun fully across the roof was really inspiring, it gave me a calmness and serenity that stayed with me through cleaning the pitch.
And then it's all over.
Anyway, that's it. It's the magic pitch on the route and I was lucky enough to hit it at the magic time of the morning. Thought the photographers on this site would appreciate the beauty of the light and the stone...it made a formation so many dread turn into such a joy to climb. Almost spiritual.
|
|
dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
|
|
got to lead that pitch a couple weeks ago!
SUH-WEEEEET!
still can't believe Kor only placed two bolts on it!
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
I can't believe it went free.
Looked about v-barely holds last time I was clipping it out...
Cool pix, thx.
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
name dropper. no wonder fattard is your twin. lol!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
aye, got us there cap'n.
though i wish in some sense that I knew more politician's so I could whisper in there ears. "hey man, that bolting ban stuff, you gotta vote that out man."
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
That roof is free? Who freed it and what is the rating?
Kor obviously didn't have short people like me in mind when he led it and placed the bolts.
|
|
Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
|
|
Possibly Rob Miller?
|
|
poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
It wasn't Platinum Rob Miller... I don't remember the name of the guy... but it went at like V12 or harder.
|
|
Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
Matt Wilder free'd it and called the roof V10.
i assume the question about Rob refered to the guy on it last week?
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2006 - 12:10am PT
|
Kor was a badass.
Anyone know any history of his FA? Would love to hear an original account of the FA, especially of this pitch.
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
I don't know much about the FA but did the route with a couple of crazy Austrians more than 30 years ago and had a blast (but the descent was a bit hairy).
Then, years later, I stayed at Layton's place in Glenwood. Much beer and midnight oil was consumed and our conversation only touched on the roof of the SFOWC.
Apparently people had given him a fair bit of grief over the spacing of the bolts and he seemed most pleased to hear me say that, at 5'6", I had no trouble making the reaches without cheater slings or stick. At the time it seemed best not to mention that an inch or two more might have been another story,...
I remember there being these old Gerry "flip-top" type bolt hangers on them. These hangers were notorious for acting like little pry bars UNLESS they were placed on overhanging rock of the right angle, which that roof seemed to be.
Anybody else recall these?
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
Yeah, its amazing how tripping in a puddle can turn into kicking a poodle off the Point.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
I actually went up there with Tony Yaniero (SP?) in the mid 70s and we put a pretty solid effort into freeing the thing, including all the original aid pitches up to dinner ledge--not too hard, but pretty good. Even then I knew the whole thing would go free. We started to get the first few moved dialed in (on the roof) but it was hot and I only had a swami, no harness, and eventually ran out of gumption. I'm not totally sure, and that was a long time ago, but as I remember I think you'd have to surmount the last bit of the roof via a lunge and catch a hold over the lip--probably a little left of the second bolt. Just back from the lip is the crack, and that isn't too bad because the angle isn't that rad. Yarding over the roof French free style (sans aiders) isn't all that bad. But freeing it clean would be pretty damn hard, but not unbelievabably so.
But I might be remembering this all wrong.
I did the South Face a stack of times just for fun. Two times stand out. Once Billy Westbay and I did it with two Japanese climbers who spoke no English at all. By the time the second had free-jumared over the roof pitch, the trail line was sawn half through. Another time I did it with British climber Ron Fawcett in about two and a half hours, simoing the lower bits and just going all out on the upper sections, anything goes. There was a bunch of fixed stuff in the archs and the thin straight in crack up high so that made for some pretty fast going. I did a lot of speed climing in those days but never as fast as that day with Ron. Just to the right is the Prow, which is the second wall I ever did. Then later Astro Man a few times. I missed out on the first of Electric Ladyland, done by my homeimes Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo and Gib Lewis. I always enjoyed WC. It was big enough to get a big wall buzz without having to drag along tons of shite.
Those pictures brought back fond memories . . .
JL
|
|
Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
|
I watched a video my friend took from Dinner Ledge of Tommy Caldwell freeing the Kor Roof this spring...WILD!
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
|
What did Tommy grade the roof as when he did it free? 5.13?
Also, the duct tape section on the lip of the roof, was that from free attempts? How long has that tape been up there? It looked kind of fresh.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!