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Manjusri
climber
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You're not helping with the namecalling couchmaster. Some people deal with grief by imagining little tito crushing in heaven, others by trying to use the moment to strategize against future tragedies. I think that this latter approach is constructive but I agree that this is best done in another thread.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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A sad event. Best to the parents and friends. Once again, please check your gear. Do it every time time you you tie in.
Brian
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Matt's
climber
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from my understanding of the french website, it looks like a young girl (probably as old as Tito, but who knows) put together the draws by clipping the carabiner-->plastic holder-->dogbone. In other words, the carabiner was connected to the dogbone by a non-structural component.
given the age of everyone involved, it's a bit hard to judge these children too harshly.
what a tragic accident...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I think that if I lost a child that I would want others not to suffer the same horrible experience, yet I still do not have any idea of what was done wrong here. Could people stop dancing around "dog bones" and come out with a clearly worded explanation.
Condolences to family and friends.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Heartbreaking.
So sorry for family and friends
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Climbing is dangerous and has a casualty rate. If you're a member of a climbing community, you'll have friends die. At one point I stopped climbing because I thought it was only a matter of time before something happened to me. You're always in a zone of calculated risks, even with sport climbing. Whether 12 year old is old enough to be in this arena, I don't know.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Senseless tragic waste. Thoughts and prayers to the family....so very sorry.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hey Ron,
This is, perhaps, what caused the accident. No way to say for sure, but regardless - a good thing to be aware of.
http://vimeo.com/4138205
Regards to his family and friends and his community. Absolutely heart wrenching. Just terrible.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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That poor little girl.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
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Murcy ... I was thinking the same thing too ...
This really is just so heartbreaking... all the way around.
Again, peace and love to the family and group with Tito that fateful day.
~leggs
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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This is, perhaps, what caused the accident... No, I don't think so. First of all you would have to have an open draw. (Petzl explicitly warns against this by the way.) And then the funky misclipping of the bottom biner would have to have been done on eight of the twelve draws; this just doesn't seem possible.
The rubber thingy in question either is or looks like this:
The quickdraw sling is inserted down from the top. The carabiner is clipped through the bottom. [The original explanation that followed didn't work; the sling would just have fallen out. But...]
Edits: when the carabiner is clipped through the bottom, it is supposed to go through the sling. But if it doesn't go through the sling, then the sling is just pinched by the rubber against the carabiner. Depending on the thingy involved and the thickness of the webbing and biner stock, the fit could be tight enough to hold the sling in place even though it isn't clipped into the carabiner.
Here is a video demonstrating how this might have happened, using a different rubber holder:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The following shot, from rc.com, http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2630465#2630465, illustrates another way in which a Petzl String brand of rubber keeper could be catastrophically misused:
The thin rubber ring holding everything together in the picture is only meant to keep the main rubber appliance from falling off if the carabiner is removed. The draws might have been set up this way originally, or they could have been incorrectly set up as in the first edit, in which case they would with look ok or would ``default'' to this configuration if the sling slipped out of the rubber holder.
An article in Grimper Magazine, http://www.grimper.com/news-mauvais-montage-degaines-utilisees-tito-traversa , describes what they say actually happened:
What a terrible sad tragedy. My heart breaks for his parents.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Wow so so terrible :,(
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steve shea
climber
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Good grief! What a tragedy. Parents give your kids an extra hug tonight. I can't imagine how the parents are coping. Devastating. RIP little one.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Thanks
I guess the take away is that when kids climb they need meticulous supervision right down to careful gear inspection.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Terrible tragedy and condolences to his family. I agree with Ron on the supervision thing.
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MisterE
Social climber
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This just breaks my heart - so much spirit lost so young.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Any thoughts why they wouldn't have just bought the quick draws already assembled? And why there was no adult input / inspection in the process ... ?
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monolith
climber
SF bay area
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Someone could have bought the dogbones with the rubber retainer already attached(either sewn or threaded), in order to use biners they already own.
The retrofit retainer described by RGold is not attached to the dogbone and thus couldn't even hold the weight of the rope if done wrong, let alone 8 of them and no one noticing.
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