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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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Last sunday, Amy and I checked out Fuller Buttes, they are super big, and according to the Spencer guide book, the Buttes has the best rock at the Southern Yosemite area, so a google mapped the area, and 6s22H looked the best way to go, with the help of google maps, it was not hard to find, and the hike was somewhat mellow compared to shuteye hiking standards. after crossing a creek, we found a good trail that lead to the base of the west Buttes, a ton of slab climbing there, went around the corner to look at the east side, and the dome is way steeper. Thomas Hartmaan, posted some stuff on Fuller Buttes with a handful of routes 5.6 to 5.10b mix and bolted climbs, but did not find them, but will go back this season and look around some more, ps, no bugs at all :-)
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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great article, Steve!!
how cool it woulda been finding a carved stick summit register!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I remember talking to Galen Rowell shortly after he and Jerry Coe did the FA on their route on the East Butte. The crux was a nut throw, which was a very new idea at the time. He said he rated it 5.8, A3 because he really wasn't sure how to rate a nut throw. Do you base it on the number of attempts it took to get it to stick?. In his AAJ note, he rated it 5.8, A?.
John
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I'm pretty sure it's gone free, Jeremy, but I can't remember the rating. I do remember Rowell's story, however. He was telling it to me, but in the hearing of TM Herbert. He said that there was a decent piton crack deep in a recess, but it was so awkard that he could only move pitons up about 6 inches from the previous spot. TM broke in - "then that's what you do." The implication was "Don't place a bolt!"
Robbins had described TM as "the Barry Goldwater of Yosemite climing," and this was not that long after the second ascent (and partial erasure) of the Wall of the Early Morning Light. TM is a very funny man, but he also has (or at least had) quite strong opinions about bolting, to the point where he wrote a short comment in the AAJ praising the "erasure."
In any case, I understood from Galen's description that it was a steep (likely overhanging), wide crack. It sounds like a typically desperate offwidth if free climbed.
John
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Find it funny that you've just now gone there Mike.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I'm pretty sure it's gone free, Jeremy, but I can't remember the rating. 659. Eagle Dihedral 5.11
FA: Jerry Coe, Galen Rowell, 4/71
FFA: Dave Nettle, Brandon Thau, 8/2004
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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