Longs Peak Early History Fricke Guide 1971

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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
In support of the Diamond Reflections-Kor Memorial gathering I would like to post some sections from the 1971 Walter W. Fricke guide pertaining to Longs Peak. Some of the speakers may not have seen these in a while.















More on the Diamond Reflections gathering here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2126118&msg=2135560#msg2135560

We will be discussing most of the Diamond FAs done just before this guide came out along with the Diagonal and Diagonal Direct.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 11, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
Still have my copy of Fricke's guidebook, although only the cover was durable -- pages fell out. Whatever, it opened up a new world of RMNP climbing for this Eldo prancer.

Most fascinating aspect of the guidebook for me was the pictures of large walls that had only one route, such as Notchtop, McHenrys or the Ptarmigan Towers. And secondly, the assortment of rarely-climbed routes (Kor's Door was one of them) rated 5.7 or 5.8 A2, obviously awaiting their FFA.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 11, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Yo Steve

Pages 74 and75?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
Got it.

Thanks$

The Fricke guide is a perfect resource for the sixties era routes.

The next Diamond event that I put together will go into the seventies and eighties.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
May 11, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
We called it "Fricke's Fables." It certainly kept your route finding abilities sharp!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 11, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Has anyone ever repeated the Shining Slab route as described here? I tried this route with Jonathan Hough in early Summer, 1967 and it had no relation to what we actually experienced. We bailed after 2 pitches, because the entire route was flowing with water. It also bore no similarity to this description.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Yessiree, the good old days when simply following the guidebook description was an adventure. LOL
Jimmer

Trad climber
Orland Park, IL
May 14, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
RMNP and Long's Peak are certainly a major part of climbing history.

FWIW, anyone interested in Rocky Mountain or Long's Peak vintage guidebooks should contact me. I have quite a few including the Fricke guides.

Shoot me an email and I can send price lists.

jimmerson@earthlink.net
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
Vertical Bump...
jopay

climber
so.il
May 25, 2013 - 06:52am PT
I too am interested in Longs Peak history, perhaps because Longs was the first real mountain I was on, or meeting and climbing with Kamps and a friend of mine, Jim Detterline was the climbing ranger there for several years. I have a copy of Longs Peak Tales which is interesting, shares some of the history.
Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
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