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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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I was hoping to get some feedback on this shoe. Is this thing any good? I haven't seen it in stores anywhere, or anyone wearing them.
Specifically I was wondering
1) how stiff is it?
2) does it essentially fit just like the normal anasazis?
3) how good is the heel fit? (I know some of the five ten shoes suck in this respect)
4) peoples experience sizing it relative to TC pros, etc...
thanks!
matt
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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I tried them on when I was shopping for some new high tops. I also tried on the grandstones, TC pros and the Astromans.
TC Pro - great fit, medium stiffness, good ankle protection, decent ankle support and flexibility, nice quick lacing, good ventilation and very expensive.
Astromans - great fit, medium stiffness (as stiff or stiffer than TC pros), good ankle protection, OK ankle support and flexibility, good lining and expensive.
Anasazi hitops - OK fit, very fast to put on/off, ankle cuff seems to come up higher than the astromans or TC pros but there is hardly any ankle support. The high top on this shoe seems to be more like an ankle cuff that offers protection but no support. this shoe offered the most flexibility of any and had the least stiff soles. I did not like the ankle cuff coming up so high without lacing to keep it tight around the ankle. I felt like the ankle cuff move around during some climbs and it seemed like a thin material that would wear out quickly. also the velcro laces seemed lik they would come undone while jamming certain crack sizes.
Grandstone - Best ankle protection and support. toe box was too big and laces do not go far enough down to avoid a toe bubble when you tighten the shoe up. Shoe had medium stiffness better than the anasazis but not as much as the TCs or Astros.
In less words:
Stiffness (lowest to highest)
Ana-Grand-TC/Astro
Ankle protection (lowest to highest)
AStro - TC - Ana - Grand
Ankle support (lowest to highest)
Ana - AStro - TC - Grand
Taking on/off (slowest to fastest)
Grand - AStro - TC - Ana
Durability (least to greatest)
Astro/Grand - TC - Ana
Ventalation (least to greatest)
Grand/Astro - Ana - TC
Price (lowest to highest)
grand - ana/astroman - TC
I ended up getting the AStromans and have been very happy so far. I have used them on granite and sandstone for face, friction and crack.
Hope this helps, but really try em all on and decide for yourself
Cheers - Matt
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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Thanks, Matty. I particularly appreciated your opinion about the Astros, since I don't know many who've used them. I currently use a pair of original Fires, re-soled with C4, for long crack and edging routes, but suspect that the modern hi-tops may be better.
Thanks again.
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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thanks for the thorough comparison.
I like the tc pros a lot but I go through them way too fast. They only last one resole in my hands before non-rubber parts get worn through. So I am trying to find a good alternative to the TC pros.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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I've been using the Anasazi high-top (synthetic model; someone here suggested that they moved to leather?). I like the fit, but 5.10s always have fit me, and La Sportivas not so much. As far as climbing, they really are a lot like the velcro Anasazi. The ankle protection seems good, but I would have said you have less ankle flexibility, or maybe you just notice the ankle coverage more than with the TC Pro because the top velcro strap is up around your ankle.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
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matt, looks like matty covered alot of points there.
just tried my hightops next to my tan vcs anasazis and they fit the same (sizing), with what appears to be the same exact heel. i wear my shoes to be comfy now, (went up a half size) and can wear them all day. there is an airspace in the heal because i went up in size, but it only seems to make them perform better since my feet are so much happier. the velcro is cool, cause on the fly you can crank down the top of the shoe for more support if your going into some wide and need it. i can see why guys like the stiffer boots like the old kaukulators and boreal golds for the wide cracks, for heal/toe technique these shoes will shine.
i used to run mostly the five ten mocs, the hightop allows me to do more pitches in more comfort, since im mostly into handcracks/widecracks now. this might be the most sensitive shoe on that hightop list you guys have there, that might be why i like it so much. fwi-after about a hundred pitches i did notice the velcro threads needed goop (on the top side, where it rubs the crack) so i gooped my new pair when i got them out of the box
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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mctwisted-- this is the info I wanted, thanks!
It sounds like these shows are more or less identical to the tan anasazis, with some sort of material around the ankle.
how thin is the toe box on these?
thanks
matt
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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feels about the same, if you get your shoes with a relaxed fit, they work better in finger cracks as your toes aren't all jammed up in the end of the toe box making it thicker. slightly more of an airspace in the tan shoes on the topside of shoe(just behind where toes would be)
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