Superb Lynn Hill Interview John Steiger Climbing August 1987

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2012 - 01:45pm PT

A fabulous interview from the glory days at Climbing magazine. Kennedy at the helm and John Steiger on assignment as assistant editor. This was the Women's Issue and in honor of the 40th anniversary of Title IX enjoy the perspective of one of its golden daughters, the amazing Lynn Hill.

Norton

Social climber

the Wastelands

Jul 1, 2012 - 02:19pm PT

I don't know if freeing The Nose was her most technically difficult climb,

but it seems to have brought her the deepest respect

sure got mine!

flyingkiwi1

Trad climber

Seattle WA

Jul 1, 2012 - 03:26pm PT

I have to agree - a superb interview that stands the test of time. Steiger knew the questions to ask, listened well to the answers, and glued it up insightfully. That's rare.

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Jul 1, 2012 - 05:19pm PT

Such an interesting article for the gender issues. I remember in the late 80's and into the 90's all politics of women competing and body image and aggressiveness. You look at the way that the world has changed and how the culture of climbing has changed and you can see how Hill's attitude and efforts pushed that forward. I'm definitely grateful to be raising a daughter in her shadow.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2012 - 10:23am PT

Independence Day Bump..

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Jul 4, 2012 - 11:42am PT

Another one of my first climbing mags.
Some of those photos are burned in my memory.
Thanks SG.

Plaidman

Trad climber

South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA

Jul 4, 2012 - 12:10pm PT

Best line in that article:

I warned her that the classics at Smith start at 5.12b
Without any hesitation or hint of sarcasm, sht replied. "Yeah. Then I would like to do something hard."

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2012 - 01:58pm PT

Steiger Bump...

cliffhanger

Trad climber

California

Jul 9, 2012 - 12:59pm PT

Excellent. Thanks.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 02:11pm PT

Bump for talent...

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Dec 2, 2012 - 02:19pm PT

Scott Franklin wrote something about Lynn, along the lines of "... you've gotten a climbing lesson from Lynn, meaning, you've merely watched her climb".

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Dec 3, 2012 - 11:44am PT

"The suncross the Oregon sky."

"...the glory days at Climbing magazine."

It paints a picture. Who's an artist? What is art? Lynn Hill. Lynn Hill's climbing.

It's neat to think that "classic" can apply to every aspect of human endeavor.

Steverino is the classic ST historino.

As Roper is to guidebooking, Grossman is to cherry picking the past.

The glory days at Climbing needs definition, though.

All from that same publication, some more photos, and some pages from Climbing 12/87.

There's a quote from the article which appeared with the pictures, which was on Arkansas rock, concerning Lynne Hill and her effect on history. The tangential nature of who does what finished by whom is of great value in understanding that in the final analysis, it don't mean sheeit. No, that's not a valid historian's right to say that.

But I am only Steverino's "acidulous ape." I con't care. Just make of all this what you will and forum-ize, guys.

"In 1984 Lynne Hill paid a visit to Jaestown, managing to pull off the crux moves on what is now the area's hardest route. Hill had to leave before finishing the ptitch, though, so it was up to (Gene) Smith to run out the final moves of Hill Street Blues (5.12c R) on the Steggasaurous Slab just right of the Wonder Wall. This same year, Jamestown's most dangerous climb was put up in the same area by visiting Brit Paul Craven. Craven's Cap (5.11-R/X) has the potential for a 50-to 60-foot fall while climbing the curx." Crux.

[The long-time curx hurtz, but what's wurtz, is that it gives zBrown some fodder.]

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Dec 3, 2012 - 11:46am PT

"Currently, the top competitors are the same athletes pushing the standards on the cliffs. But virtually all of them agree that you can't determine who is the best climber in the world, no matter how people try."--Beth Wald, above