Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening: Climbing Epic Sawtooth's 1949

From a Summit Post link. http://www.summitpost.org/baron-spire/155259
About three feet higher than my outstretched hand was what looked like a headless nail sticking out of the wall about two inches at a slightly downward angle. After several attempts, during which time the clarity of commitment began to fog up, I managed to sort of lasso the object with a sling. With conscious slow breathing, the clarity of commitment, and the gentleness and finesse reserved for A5 placements and 5.11 friction, I clipped an aider into the sling and tip-toed onto the stirrup. It held. I carefully moved up one rung. It still held. I tied off another sling where the broken-off drill bit that looked like a nail came out of the wall at an angle that threatened to shrug off the sling that held me in place.”