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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Mar 27, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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Donini must be away, as he usually chimes in on similar topics with various sarcastic comments--usually addressing the climbing prowess of the Anasazi. While to some extent I understand Jim's thoughts on the absurdity of such exercises, climbing itself is basically absurd and compiling such lists do provide considerable entertainment to those of us who are climbing obsessives. So I'll plunge in on this topic and further muddy the waters.
In addition to the complications of contrasting apples and oranges and pears that Clint mentioned above, there is also the fact that many "breakthroughs' (or possible breakthroughs) have been made at more obscure areas (or by obscure climbs at major areas) often places with sandbagged rating systems, first-ascender modesty and poor record keeping or a combination of these factors.
So, sticking to US climbs, I'll mention a few "contenders" over-looked above.
Vector climbed by Fritz Wiessner in 1935 is rated 5.8 in the current guidebook, but would be considered 5.9 in most other climbing areas. His even earlier ascents of Tower Crack(done as an off-width)(1934) and Wiessner Corner(1933) on the same crag are almost as hard and more sustained---all before Mechanics Route listed above as "America's fist 5.8"--though I believe that Albert Ellingwood climbed a chimney outside of Colorado Springs before the First World War that gets this rating today).
I also have a vague memory of another World War 2 era 5.9 (probably top-rope)done on an island in the Potomac near Caderock outside of DC--possibly done by Arnold Wexler. Any DC locals on here to fill in the details?
Jumping a couple of decades, John Turner's Repentance on Cathedral Ledge,NH climbed in 1958 is traditionally rated "5.9+", though one guidebook has it at 5.10c, maybe a bit generous, but closer to the mark. Turner stood on a piton for aid, but that was below the crux section. This route seems technically easier than the Northcutt Start in Eldorado Springs, but is more strenuous and was done a year earlier. Both are harder than Goodros.Also from 1959 is Chuck Pratt's Split Pinnacle layback in the Valley (major area, obscure route) rated 10c. But during the same '58-'59 time period John Gill climbed (often solo) a series of routes at Devil's Lake several of which were harder than any of these climbs, and some (Gill's Crack) are likely 5.11s, despite the more modest grades given in the Devil's Lake guidebook. (During those same years, Gill climbed a series of routes on the buttresses of Disappointment Peak out of Garnet Canyon in the Tetons. Again often climbing alone he sought out difficult sequences--boulder problems in the sky--ignoring easier options nearby, making it impossible for future parties to know if they are replicating his actual routes or to determine their true difficulties. However given that they were climbed by Gill in his prime, they were undoubtedly pretty "stout").
Greg Lowe's Crack of Doom (5.11c)in the City of Rocks was climbed in the early '60s,(record keeping at the City has always been pretty "lax") and I've heard that this was far from the hardest route he climbed during this period.
Finally, City Lights (512c)at Giant City,SoIll. was climbed by Joe Healy in 1975. While a year later than Supercrack--given the same grade--it was still a fine effort worthy of inclusion. And, is there anyone who has done both routes, so can say which is harder?
There are quite likely equally advanced little-known achievements in places like the southwest or northwest that should also be included on this "list".
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 27, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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One tiny detail is incorrect: the Split Pinnacle Lieback was first freed by Dave Rearick, if my failing memory doesn't fail me here.
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BlackSpider
Ice climber
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Mar 27, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Was Alex Huber's route "Open Air" climbed before or after Fred Rouhling did "Akira"? Adam Ondra upgraded Open Air to 5.15a after making the second ascent (to put it more in line with routes such as Action Direct), so it may potentially be the first route warranting that grade.
There's been speculation (by I believe Ethan Pringle and others) that Chris Sharma's "Jumbo Love" may in fact be 5.15c. Also Sharma did not grade "First Round, First Minute" and there's been speculation it may be harder than the previously-estimated 5.15b grade.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Make that the late 1950s. Gill was certainly doing boulder problems in the V7-V9 range then.
His boulder problems still amaze me -- and we're very fortunate to have him as a regular contributor on ST. His bouldering was several decades ahead of his time.
And Brokendown is correct: the Split Pinnacle Lieback was Rearick, after placing a bolt on rappel, in the early 1960's.
I wonder how hard the Pratt Chimney (1959) really is, since I know very few who've done it.
John
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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2008 Jumbo Love. Clark Mountain CA by Chris Sharma (5.15b)
Of course this is trivial, but Clark Mt. is in NV, not CA.
Also, wasn't Sharma's 'Realization' the first 5.15?
Cool lists...
Now, shouldn't we separate bouldering from roped ascents? Crack vs. face?
Naw....
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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To Bolt or not to Be was the first 5.14 in the US right? Put up by frenchman JB Tribout.
I imagine Just Do It was put up shortly thereafter, and that's even harder (like 5.14c?), so it may have momentarily been the hardest.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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It may be very hard to figure out the 'progression' of difficulty at any one established area, say Yosemite. Either based on perceptions at the time, or in retrospect. When you add innumerable areas, some as Alan says not well known, and a wide variety of rock and climb types, it makes it even more complicated.
For example, in 1975 Hot Line was trumpeted (in Mountain, anyway), as the first 5.12. Yosemite was the 'happening' area then, and so perhaps got more attention. But a 5.12, the left side of the Split Pillar in Squamish, was done in September that year. And as Alan says, other routes of that difficulty were done then or earlier.
1949 5.10c Goodro's Crack, Harold Goodro, Big Cottonwood Canyon
1954 5.11 Fissure Brown, Joe Brown, Don Whillans, Alps
1961 5.12a/b (V5) The Thimble, John Gill, Needles
1972 5.12b Kansas City, John Bragg, Gunks
1974 5.12c Super Crack, Steve Wunsch, Gunks
1975 5.12d Psycho Roof, Steve Wunsch (or Jim Collins?), Eldorado Canyon
1977 5.13a The Phoenix, Ray Jardine, Yosemite
1977 5.13a/b Phlogiston, Pete Cleveland, Devil's Lake
1979 5.13b Grand Illusion, Tony Yaniro, Sugarloaf A list that begs to be fleshed out.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 27, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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No mention of the Lowe/Jones route on North Twin (oops this is in Canada)
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 27, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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They don't even have Kauk's "Magic Line" listed? (5.14b)
How homo is that?
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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It's kind of ironic that I was the person to start this thread, since I generally don't pay much attention to who is doing what grade, and the only interest I personally have in ratings is to give me a safety guideline when I go up on routes.
But after seeing that photo of a climb in Maine, with that "hardest" caption, it just struck me I did not recall ever having seen a list for gear protected climbs (either US or worldwide).
I kind of recall such a list in an article about the progression of grades in sport climbing.
To me, the interesting thing is not the grade itself, or the list itself but what were the factors (training, ropes you can actually fall on, shoes, cams, other athletic background, psychological mindset, etc.) that led to the route going from "can't do" to "can do".
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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The Grand Illusion is not at all a sport climb! I had the interesting experience of belaying a very good climber on his first time ever going up on it. Pre gri -gri's.
Anyway it would take someone knowledgable and organized, like Clint, to parse these lists into boulder problems, solos, sport, and then flesh them out with more info, like crack size, angle of steepness etc.
Rainy day internet research/playtime for someone?...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 27, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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You should write a TR, or at least tell us that story!
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bob
climber
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Mar 27, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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Yeah Phylp that could be a pretty fun story! Tap tap on the computer? Please.
Bob J.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Mar 27, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Clark Mt. is actually in CA, not NV. It is ten miles west of the CA/NV border.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Great list, Alan.
I have even done some of those climbs - I have added them (and others) to the list on my page.
Your comment about Greg Lowe reminded me that Jeff Lowe posted here that Greg climbed the Macabre Roof 5.12c in 1967. It's a 40 foot roof.
So it's another example of an early obscure and hard route!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=291953&tn=80
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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Thanks for the correction re:Rearick leading Split Pinnacle. Something in the back of my mind said that it was someone other than Pratt, but I just went with what was on the FA list in the copy of the Yosemite guide that I grabbed off my shelf. Pratt did the FA, but the list. obviously, didn't include the FFA. Also, the 12c at Giant City is City Limits, not City Lights. I knew this, but the name of a fun Gunks route just "came out of my fingers", not the correct name. Though Macabre Roof in '67 preceeds both this and Supercrack by a good few years---and there may well be similar "well ahead of their time" accomplishments that have yet come to be generally known.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 28, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Topropes of 11b in the mid 60s, 12 in the 70s? Come on.
Quoting Jello here:
"In the mid-1960s in Idaho's City of Rocks, Greg had been among the first to lead 5.12 on rock in classic, completely free style."
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 28, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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1972 5.12b Kansas City, John Bragg, Gunks
1974 5.12c Super Crack, Steve Wunsch, Gunks
1975 5.12d Psycho Roof, Steve Wunsch (or Jim Collins?), Eldorado Canyon
1977 5.13a The Phoenix, Ray Jardine, Yosemite
1977 5.13a/b Phlogiston, Pete Cleveland, Devil's Lake
1979 5.13b Grand Illusion, Tony Yaniro, Sugarloaf
-----
This section in here is full of holes.
English Hanging Gardens (5.12b) at Big Rock was done sometime around 1970. Paisano Overhang at Suicide (5.12c) was done in 5/73. Hangover (5.13a) at Tahquitz was in '77. Also, Bachar was doing a lot of hard things out at Josh circa '75 - '78. And there's plenty more, including Bridwell's Abstract Corner, 5.12a/b, at the Cookie, done around 1970 (??).
JL
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Green Gulley of course.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Yer awesome Toadgas. That DOES happen to be a slung solution pocket in front of my pal the Brave Little Toaster. I was pretty proud of that.
I think it was like 5.8d+, almost R, major funkness rating.
So yeah, pretty badass.....
Now back to our regularly scheduled spray...
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