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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Free Muir?
Is there anything else to read about this?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2006 - 07:21pm PT
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>Free Muir?
>Is there anything else to read about this?
Right now, I don't know anything more than what is shown in the post above (and what I've seen on Supertopo - see my post below). I've done the Muir on aid, so I'm looking forward to seeing this! I'll post more info after the slideshow, for those who can't make it.
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rradakovits
Sport climber
san diego
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From a quick search I gather that he also has freed Salathe, how much harder is Muir???
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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>From a quick search I gather that he also has freed Salathe, how much harder is Muir???
The previous free version of the Muir, "The Shaft"
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#shaft
is 5.13c, with 4 5.13 pitches and 14 5.12 pitches.
In comparison, the Salathe' Wall
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe
is 5.13b, with 4 5.13 pitches and 4 5.12 pitches. So I suppose you could say the initial difference is 10 5.12 pitches....
But I believe the Free Muir may climb the big upper corner which Smith and Cosgrove didn't think would ever go free.
Edit: see Ammon's description below in this thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=154388#msg154629
So I expect there has got to be some pretty hard climbing up there. We'll see!
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Ha, we are all guessing... I just remember his girl dropped the haulbag with his camera.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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thought i'd heard some banter about the free muir not really following all parts of the muir, but i can't recall the specifics.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Rob Miller and Justen have been working the free muir for a bit (check out pics in the new black diamond catalogue). Also, Tommy did the shaft (not too much press on this for some reason). Not sure if Justen has freed it in one push yet. I'm pretty sure Rob and Justen have been keeping closer to the original muir.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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[bump] - Slideshow is tonight - should be fun...
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Mar 13, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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Billygoat,
Rob told me that their free variation is actually a spin off of The Shaft and climbs even further away from The Muir on the headwall. They avoid some of the chossy pitches up high and climb on Turning Point before going into The Shield.
He mentioned they will probably name it a new route name all together.
Wish I could make it. It's pretty impressive to watch these two climb.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Seattle, Wa
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Mar 14, 2006 - 01:11am PT
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Hope you had a great slideshow Justen! Sorry I couldn't be there, I am chained up here in Seattle for another 50 days or so...See you this spring, hope you are sending. Say hi to Platinum for me.
Best,
Holly
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Mar 14, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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good show
lots of work to set those pics up on everyone's part from what Rob and Justen were saying. Tim Kemple was the photographer on Muir.
I'm now officially in training after seeing the big stone. :)
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Mar 14, 2006 - 04:46am PT
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Yeah Ammon,
I guess we're both right. I was talking with Rob earlier today, and their line keeps a bit closer to the Muir further down (around pitch 24), but exits the Muir lower than the Saft to go to Turning Point.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2006 - 06:36pm PT
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Fun slideshow! Dodging rain and skeeters above the Arctic Circle in the Arrigetch and then working on the Free Muir. Pretty nice side-perspective shots of all the hard pitches above Mammoth by Tim Kemple - as Rob B said, it must have taken a *lot* of work to get those.
The version of the Muir they have been working on follows the Muir/Shaft to the top of the p23 lieback (shown in the poster at top). The next pitches on the Shaft var. have some way sketchy death blocks which endanger not only the climbers, but folks below. So they found a way back left onto the original Muir, did a cool pitch on it, then left to Turning Point, and climbed up to the left end of the bivvy ledge on the Muir below its big upper corner. They joined the Shaft again at this point for its left traverse to Chickenhead Ledge and finish on the Shield. With something like 16 5.12-13 pitches, it's hard to comprehend taking on such a tough project, but they seem well on the way!
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