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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 28, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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Rockfall or not Rixon's is a Classic.
Register courtesy of the Mountain Record Section, Bancroft Library, Berkeley.
Spent a great deal of time loading this and writing out all the names and dates and then ST ate up all the info and crashed-any questions I can probably clarify but someday I will have to scan and clean up each individual entry. Good job for master Haan.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 28, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Guido, you were one of the people I wanted to meet at FL but we just slipped past each other a couple of times. Next time I'll be sure to introduce myself.
Some real treasures in those pages.
When people talk about BITD women climbers, Ellen Wilts and Bev Powell are often missed.
Rixon's Pinnacle 1st ascent 1948 (which month?) Chuck & Ellen Wilts via South Face 60 pitons
Then untouched for 8 years and a new route:
2nd ascent Sept 9, 1956 Don Goodrich UCHC Dick McCracken via East Chimney
What's a "Dolt Channel"? Precursor to bongs?
Tom Frost
Dolt via West side Sept 11 59
Moonlight 6 Dolt Channels
TM Herbert
Yvon Chouinard
Took out 3 bolts
East side
?? 11, 1959
July 3, 1963
Mark Powell
Jim Baldwin
Beverly Powell
via West Face
First ascent of news route of w.face 3/65
Glen Denny Gary Colliver snowstorm Now that's Bad Arse.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 28, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
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Guido! Thanks so much.
First: Wilts & Wilts
Second: Goodrich & McCracken
Third: Sessions & Powell
Fourth: Sherrick & Kamps
Fifth: Reed and ???
Sixth: Harding & ???
Fantastic travel down memory lane.
g
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 28, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Guido. Send me these image files directly. I will see what I can do. I gather they are on disk so don't reformat; just keep as is. If giant, then I will give you a site to dump them rather than by email.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 28, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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Can anybody let me know who Rixon was/is?
I love these threads.
Thanks,
g
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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Looking only briefly so far, I see Phil Scott climbing the East Chimney 5th class with Frank Sacherer. I'm sure I've heard of other Sacherer ascents, so I wonder if it was something he climbed habitually.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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Would West Face Direct be Far West or something obscure?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:50am PT
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guido, that's a bummer your typing disappeared.
My rule is to always type into a .txt file if it takes me more than 5 minutes, then copy/paste to the web.
Here are the pages separated and 2x enlargement; no real tricks (except on the Sierra Club card).
not Mr. Powell's remarkable
time of 9 hrs. We took
all told 16 hrs. and
millions of pitons, sky hooks,
2 by fours, xxx of xxx
trees and Little Gem
Rubber Pitons.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for all the image manipulation work. Good job folks!
A Dolt Channel is almost certainly a piton made from aluminum channel stock.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Can anybody let me know who Rixon was/is?
ref "Tom Rixon" as Henry Knoll's partner on the first attempt of The Arrowhead Chimney, from the August 1942 Sierra Club Bulletin.
FA Fritz Lippmann, Torcom Bedayan, Henry Knoll, Pearl Harbor Day 12/7/41.
Damn, I hate being the dread last poster!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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All better now...Nice historical background!
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BBA
climber
OF
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Thomas H. Rixon also wrote up the the first ascent of the Lost Arrow for Yosemite Nature Notes when he was a ranger in 1946.
Page 8, the NA.... was Tom Naylor.
I have to laugh at what time does to the memory. I sure as shlt don't recall signing in on a register, but there it is. Thanks Joe.
Bill Amborn
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Wow, the memories. I think this was the first instance of a "Yosemite Pinnacle" with many more to follow, e.g. Coon~ard.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
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Bump
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 22, 2018 - 02:02pm PT
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Those register scans remind me of petroglyphs. Did the people whose names are scrawled go the way of the Anasazi?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Feb 22, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
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Who's Who of the Golden Years.
Cheers for the work done in the name of preservation!
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jstan
climber
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Feb 22, 2018 - 04:20pm PT
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How long I have been waiting this thread!
In the late 60's I went to do Rixon's with someone from C4. He took most of the day leading the rickety flake just off the ground leaving the rest of the climb to be done in the dark. Since it was growing dark I said, "What do you suggest we do? He replied. "Noot a prroblem. I hae a head llamp."
Not being expert in leading by the braille technique my companion led the second pitch too and went to sleep as soon as he reached a belay, Being met only by silence from above I had to take the resistance of the rope to my pulling to imply I might safely undertake the pendulum leading to the rest of the pitch. I took it as favorable that I could see nothing and hundreds of feet down there were no rocks on the ground below. It would be a long trip but at the end a soft landing. Since I could see nothing I unfortunately removed every last fixed piton.
I have to admit this climb was very much a learning experience for me.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2018 - 07:39pm PT
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Little Joe- Private Eye...
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