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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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i always see other parties when i climb over there
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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check out this link but a picture is worth a thousand words. Anyone want to go up Mr. Natural?
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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the whole valley is an active rockfall zone!
i have done mr natural twice since that unfortunate guy died there. great climbing, just get in and get out.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Rokjox wrote:
>... Maybe we need a self appointed cleaning crew to release that thing late some night.
The flake is huge, so it would take some serious explosives - so basically there is no way; we'll have to wait for nature to take its time. I recall a photo taken from a helicopter. It's not handlable by 1-2 people like that old block on the Nose that got trundled.
and Matt wrote:
>the whole valley is an active rockfall zone!
True, but clearly some areas are higher risk than others (just in terms of observed frequency of rockfalls, for example). Everyone chooses their own level of acceptable risk, of course. I guess I'm lucky that I already did Mr. Natural so many times; I don't feel such an urgent need to get back on it now.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I climbed Mr. Natural (perhaps ill advisedly) last fall. Such a shame about the rock fall potential as it is truely seared in my mind as one of the best pitches (we third classed to the crack) Ive ever been on.
That said - I wont go back, just not worth it to me
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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A large car jack was used to increase the length of "Strange Energy" by at least 30 feet. The whole "Punch Bowl" to "Mr. Natural Area" has been a bowling alley for years, and years. Just take a look at the talus pile over there. We always climbed on that side of the Apron in the Fall or early Winter after everything had cut loose in the Spring. When the water is seeping, stay away.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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I've been on Mr Natural twice since the big rock fall. I don't see it as a bigger deal than being at the bottom of Central Pillar or being anywhere at the bottom of El Cap.
I wear a helmet, rack up away from the cliff, and don't hang around (same thing I do at Central or El Cap).
I even did Good Book this last year, although it looked a little dodgier (but very fun, my first time on it).
As far as other people climbing at the Apron, there are a lot of already runout routes that are getting pretty rusty. Anyone for free soloing 5.11 friction?
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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I can say that being at the top of rixon's after doing the good book this spring. I have never wanted anyone to follow a lead that quickly. Jeez all the bolts sheared off and bent.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Rockfall or not (thanx NPS) the Apron is home to some of the best slab routes on the planet! Something about the sound of rubber squeaking on glacial polish just sends me. Too bad certain individuals have felt the need to boost their sagging egos by slagging friction routes and downrating Apron routes. Routes like Perfect Master and Nothing on the Apron are solid 5.12 regardless of whether some guidebook author hung his way up the bolts or in the case of Hall of Mirrors downrated the route after wearing out a pair of shoes whipping all over the rig! Damn the Torpedos - full speed ahead.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The idea that the rockfall pushed the goodbook all the way over to rixon's is enough to make me, wary.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Some of my fondest Valley memories are of routes on the Apron.
At the end of my first trip I fell off of "Lean Years" and went home to New Hampshire. Six months later I returned and led it, in Fires with 5 pieces of pro. Someone at the base razzed me for taking so little gear, but I countered with, "If I take it, I will use it," and so I sent it with some unnessesary runouts.
Son of Sam and Lean Years were pre-breakfast classics; I probably did 20 ascents of each. The boulder problem (Short Circuit, I think???) that was uphill and to the right was the only place I saw rockfall, courtesy of the watercourse above. I never got hit, but there were some memorable close calls. I still never wore a helmet, being 20 and indestructible and all...
Misty Beethoven was the best, and when I return to the valley I will surely throw myself at the pitches above Misty's P5, and damn the torpedoes.
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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confusion by me good book= the folly ? someone help me
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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On Stoney's main wall is a boulder about 7 ft by 3 ft Elipsoid.
A car jack would send it tumbling down towards Topanga Canyon. Anyone in?
Juanito
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Coonyard, circa 1975. Dig the pair of biners, the pop-top hanger, and the bell bottoms baby.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Off White - Yeah , I remember you - you made and sold those vintage pile pants right?
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Well, they're vintage now, but they were cutting edge, well, maybe more like a butter knife, all back in the day. Who're you?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Just another dirtbag slab sheriff from the Platinum Age
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