Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
YoungGun
Trad climber
Ottawa, ON
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 2, 2011 - 09:41am PT
|
Okay, so I'm relatively new to climbing, compared to most of you, in that I just started a little over a year ago, so I appreciate your tolerance for my question. I'm obsessed with climbing now, and it's completely changed my life. It's hard for me to think about anything else. Hell, I'm writing this right now at work! I'm sure many of you can relate. I've managed to redpoint 5.10d sport and 5.10a trad.
My greatest weakness is slab. I've never taken a fall on slab, mostly because I'm too afraid to fall. I'll stall out for a few minutes sometimes before I commit to some tenuous move because I want to be sure I have it. I think this means, however, that I'm not learning as much as I could, and I'm not pushing myself as much as I should if I'm not falling.
Is the so called "cheese grater" a real risk? Am I going to f*#k up my hands for weeks and not be able to climb if I fall on slab? Should I be scared, or should I go for it, or both? If you could share your experiences falling on slab, that would be awesome!!
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
The leader must not fall.
If you fall on slab, just start running.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
Stretch your arms and legs towards the wall and "Cat Slide" the fall...
edit: BTW, one never really "falls" on a slab--"tumble" would be a better definition of the event.
|
|
neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
|
|
If you start to fall...just run down backwards...you're gonna die anyway.
|
|
Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
|
|
tuck and roll. I call it bowling for belayers.
|
|
jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
|
|
My very first post on ST is similar to this... only with crack climbing, and I received some excellent advice from many people.
Slab climbing is rad! Like a few other posters have said, don't focus on falling. Just start with the easy stuff - try doing every 5.7 slab climb at your local crag. Then move to every 5.8 and so on.
Then go to J-tree and eventually the valley/Tuolumne and focus on slab climbing. Before you know it, you'll bag the 3rd ascent of Hall of Mirrors.
When you eventually fall, it will be either because your foot slipped (something we don't necessarily have control over), or because you were gripped and your elvis-leg caused your foot to slip. Don't rag-doll in this situation, start running...
|
|
YoungGun
Trad climber
Ottawa, ON
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2011 - 10:10am PT
|
Hahaha I've never run it out 20 ft on slab. Maybe I should try that. I guess running backwards doesn't work if you're taking a 40 footer.
So basically: go balls out, risk a little scrape, and learn good footwork?
|
|
Daniel Eubank
Sport climber
Woodbridge, VA
|
|
Young Gun,
Have popped on lead slab climbing at Suicide Rocks. Managed to stay on my feet when my first piece popped, was really haulin' ass backwards when the next piece, a #3 Camelot with a double length runner finally arrested my rearward fall. Keep your legs/feet motoring to avoid road rash. Climbed back up, replaced the popped piece, albeit a better placement, and finished the route.
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
"Slid and Glide and Save Your Hide"
Motorcycle leathers!
"We use to joke about the ideal Apron climbing attire being motorcycle leathers, We even
had our own Apron dialogue with such terms as Pilot Slippée and Piolet Crashée, just a little game with Yvon’s book on ice climbing."
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
Is the so called "cheese grater" a real risk?
Seems real enough to me. My middle finger on my right hand is 3/8" shorter from a slab fall. 4 hours of surgury to repair the tip (after two weeks of soaking in peroxide to get the f'n plaster of paris cast out of the wound from an ER doc in remote Utah).
Good times.
Needless to say, my life as a "slab master" changed pretty much on the spot that day. Bit less carefree about running it out on hard friction.
Your lead...ha ha.
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
No. Refer to Tami, the cheese grater only applies to O/W.
I've run out long & taken long slab falls. Ain't no big deal, unless there's somethin' to hit (i.e., chickenheads) or swing into (a corner).
Focus, Grasshopper, focus...snatch the hacky from my hand...
 ec
|
|
froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Often slab falls are slow and undramatic. Sometimes, if you keep your balance, you'll even stop before the rope catches you. I think the main thing you want to avoid is tumbling. There have been some bad accidents where the climber's feet have caught on either the rope or a feature on the rock and flipped them backwards resulting in a whack to the back of the head. Stay aware of where the rope runs and any features below you.
The "turn and run method" can work well for really low angle falls, esp. if you're to one side or another of your last piece of protection. Otherwise, the general rule is to "cat" it out when you start to fall. Keep your arms and legs wide and your weight centered.
As for the cheese grater effect, it's real but the grit of the rock is a big determining factor. Smooth granite like at Suicide usually isn't too bad. I've taken plenty of sliders there with no bad effect.
|
|
ME Climb
Trad climber
Behind the Orange Curtain
|
|
Call me weird but I love slab climbing. I am old, fat and have never been able to pull hard. So slab climbing is my strong suit. I enjoy the concentration it takes to find the tiny imperfections in the rock and trust your feet. Standing on things where you have no idea how you are sticking.
My very first lead fall was a 15 footer on a 5.6 slab. Seemed like I just kept sliding and sliding. The thing I remember is how hot my hands got.
Eric
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
You guys that tear of the tips of your fingers or get hot hands.
Let the f*ck go if it's inevitable that you cannot stop the momentum.
ec
|
|
YoungGun
Trad climber
Ottawa, ON
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
|
No. Refer to Tami, the cheese grater only applies to O/W.
I thought with O/W the biggest risk was getting my knee stuck and shitting my pants.
|
|
ME Climb
Trad climber
Behind the Orange Curtain
|
|
EC- I learned that lesson rather quickly but all be it to late.
Locker definately has the best advice!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
Most slab falls I've seen and been a part of kind of resembled a way over inebriated drunk falling down a steep San Francisco sidewalk. Slow motion, stops and starts, lots of rash that looks more impressive the next scabby day.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
You just can't approach slab climbing with the sport climbing "must fall to progress" mentality.
Work up the grades. Don't plan on falling, but try to be aware of your trajectory and what you might hit. :)
Many of us have seen 5.10-11 sport climbers wig out on 5.8 slab. Completely different animal, as you already know.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!