Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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What are all the opinions out there about rubber?
At first I didn't mind the Vibram® XS Edge for smearing, but when I got on some delicate friction I couldn't keep from skating off on XS Edge. My Evolv shoes worked well in the same spot. What do people think or is 5.10 Stealth still the good stuff?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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There is no single best climbing shoe rubber, it's going to depend on the rock, on the shoe and on the temperature.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
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What do people think or is 5.10 Stealth still the good stuff?
All around best stuff out there....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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Rudder I'm so pathetic I can't tell. I've got a pair of la sportiva nago's I had resoled with stealth & a pair with original rubber. At first I thought one was better than the other. But I put the wrong pair on & after needing a good bit on a small edge & thinking how nice that stealth was, I got to the top looked at my shoes & realized I had the original vibram pair on.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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Rudder I'm so pathetic I can't tell.
lol I hear ya' brother. ;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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I thought you were an Onyx guy, locker?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Well if I was going to take anyones opinion on rubber it would be lockers.
As far as peeling new rubber off ---I use to do that like 25 years ago --- but I don't climb well enough that it matters any + I like most of the new rubber.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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I thought you were an Onyx guy, locker?
Jay, I think his stance is that Onyx sticks TOO well, and as a result, wears too fast compared to C4.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Okay, I dropped off one pair of shoes to the Yosemite Bum for TRAX® XT-5. And, sending another pair to Barry for some C4. I'll keep you posted.
BTW, dropped off the one pair yesterday to Evolv (Yosemite Bum) and told him I wouldn't mind it back soon, but no biggie. He called today letting me know they were finished. One day turn around. Also, big bonus, when I went there yesterday to give them the shoes to resole Chris Sharma walked over and asked me about my shoes. I looked up (he's taller in real life) started stuttering, dropped to my knees, and said, "we're not worthy, we're not worthy." lol He is so nice and has such a great spirit about him. His girlfriend was with him, she climbs 5.14 and is beautiful and nice. I thought, what a great life he has... you need only be the most extraordinary climber in the world to have the same life. lol
John Long is still my ultimate hero, but Chris Sharma is a pretty special dude. :)
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 29, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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Just got back two pairs of shoes from Yosemite Bum. Looks like a good resole job and quick too. I have used Stealth and C4 for years as well as Sportiva rubber, and I have no doubts that Trax rubber will be fine also. It certainly smells the same as 5.10...I truly doubt there's much difference. I never noticed any difference between Sportiva or 5.10, so I ain't no connoisseur I guess.
Can't beat the currrent deal either!!!!!!!!
2 pairs resoled with Trax (1/2 soles) for $38.00, plus FREE return shipping. That's $38.00 total for TWO pairs! Took about a week.
http://www.yosemitebum.com/gift.htm
There is no reason I can think of to use ANY other rubber than C4...
Other's may be CLOSE...
But there IS a difference...
All the other companies are TRYING to get some sh!t just as good...
NOT THERE YET!!!...
Only my OPINION...
Only your opinion...ok, but do you base your opinion on anything relevant?
Stickier? Better for edging?, both?, other?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 29, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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except for a pair of Five Ten Mocs I wear Sportivas exclusively on account of my "European" (read: girly) feet.
I have resoled every pair of Sportivas with C4. That's just how it goes
girly man edit: my wrists are skinny! I wear women's watches!!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Aug 29, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
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I have no experience with TRAX rubber but I've always had the best overall climbing with C4 Stealth. The La Sportiva XSV was stickier but at the price of durability. 10 days of climbing did my first pair of Mythos in but afterwards I have always gone to C4 with much better results. The Scarpa Megabyte rubber faired pretty well for me, too, pretty close to C4.
I decided to try the Onyx rubber on one of my pairs of Mythos and found that the rubber is much harder and doesn't stick very well until the temperatures start soaring. I don't particularly like to climb in temps over 75 so the Onyx was a bust for me. In really hot weather, the Onyx acts like the C4 does at cooler temperatures. In the same hot weather, the C4 "melts" away too quickly.
The Acopa rubber behaved much like the XSV. Very sticky but not very durable.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 29, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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The Evolv Trax definitely outperforms the Vibram® XS Edge stuff which is on the LaSportivas.
Seriously. Been tested in the lab by an official scientist.
Until you get them on the rock. Then the Vibram® XS Edge has a tiny slight edge and is minimally better as the trax will slip first.
Seriously.
C4? I never tested that, all I have is the truth for Trax and XS. Oh, the Acopa rubber will grease much easier on wet basalt, easier than any other rubber. The Trax is X2 better and it's wet around here a lot. Sorry, I passed this by JB too and he sympathized, but knew it was the truth.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 30, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Five ten mystique is noticeably stickier then c4 and edges well (at least in the team 5.10 le's) but is only available on a few shoes and not for resole as far as I have seen. Pretty durable too.
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