Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
Hopefully, Ermas will post a shot or two once the footlights dim a little! LOL
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2011 - 02:23am PT
|
I seem to recall that I did the first pitch of the GD on the first day that Urmas and I rapped in there and rated it 5.10c. Yes, we did have RPs along. But we both thought the third slab pitch was the crux at 5.10d. I did that one too and rated it 5.10d. Certainly seemed harder technically than the first, but maybe that was because of the hand drilling? In any case, I also remember that the second undercling/OW pitch took a 3.5" camming device (i.e. 'Friend').
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2011 - 11:46am PT
|
The right hand variation to the second pitch, first climbed by Bob Harrington, doesn't require wide pro, and will be preferred by most I think.
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
|
I remember that Zappa Dave Austin underclung the whole OW section of the second pitch without any arm bars or knee locks. Oh well! To each his own! Can't understand why more people walk out there and do GD. With the hike and rap in, it seems like it should be a popular Meadows day excursion.
Good to see you writing on the boards, Urmas. I'm still doing a few new routes now and then at Castle Rock; that is, whenever I can push my walker out to Last Temptation Cliff or the new area, Diamond Heights. Best to keep on climbing (and skiing) I'd say because the alternatives are not that attractive.
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
|
I don't understand it either. It's partly due, I'm sure to the misleading approach beta in the Reid guide. Probably better that way though. Folks get upset when too many people start showing up at their area. I will be going out next summer myself to replace the bolts I am told I missed.
Yeah, we'll keep climbing.....until all we can do is climb out of bed!
Good to hear from you, Bruce!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
|
Wake Up and Clip! Bump...
|
|
Zappa
Big Wall climber
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:00am PT
|
So, this is a stealth post because no one is still following this thread. It looks like the line Cantwell and I did will finally get in the guidebook. Good. Thank you, Clint.
It is kind of mind blowing that no one has repeated this route and gone on to routes on the wall above it. The headwall has to be seen to believe how amazing it is. Go do it. It won't be easy, but it will be beautiful. Please send me the trip photos.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
|
Hey Zappa Dave!
Golden Routes from the Golden Days get the Golden Bump.
Do you recall taking the Big Ride over the lip on Tightrope BITD?!?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 12:28am PT
|
Big Ride Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
|
Second ascent just waiting folks...
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
Dave Austin, Scott Backes and myself went in to repeat the "Land of the New Rising Sun" (IV 5.11a) in June 1980(?) and after doing the crux second pitch got rained and snowed off. Epic retreat through rising nightmare creeks etc. etc. Then, in 1984, after putting up the "Golden Dawn" in July 1983, Urmas and I attempted to hike in from the Ahwahnee Hotel and link up "Land of the New Rising Sun" with the "Golden Dawn" (IV 5.10d). But after completing the first three-four pitches we got lost wandering around in some dihedrals and couldn't figure out where the "L of the NRS" went from there.
Maybe with the publication of Clint Cummin's new Yosemite Guide some brave souls will attempt a one-day link up of the "L of the NRS" to "Escape from Freedom" (VI 5.12c)? That makes more sense than hiking up the intervening slabs to the "Golden Dawn" finish. No matter. In any case, that's a lot of slab pitches in one day. Best to have driver meet you where the Snow Creek trail ends at the Tioga Road (US 120) to drive you back down to the Valley. Otherwise, quite a hike back. With a detailed topo I imagine the "Land of the NRS" would be a snap.
What would be truly amazing though is if the "L of the NRS" led to a new route starting out of the big water spout holes on the East Face of Watkins and then took a drop of water line straight up to the top of Watkins. Just talkin', but there certainly is a high-standard line still to go up there, probably out of the farthest east water spout. Unfortunately, it's so steep you'd probably have to rap bolt it. But to each his own!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 05:45pm PT
|
Slight clarification to Bruce's post - I'm not the only person working on updating the guidebook. Thanks to Bruce, David and Chris, I have a decent topo of Land of the New Rising Sun - if anybody wants to "test drive" it, just let me know.
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
I stand corrected, Clint. But who are the others working on the new Yosemite climbing guide? Does that mean it's going to be a collective effort involving a collaboration between various individuals?
PS- I too took the big ride over the lip on Tight Rope BITD. When I first met Dave Austin that was one thing we had in common. Didn't hit anything either, which is surprising, given the length of the fall. My toes just touched the slab underneath the roof.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
|
On stance bump...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
|
Bump for all things Dawn...
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
|
Mark Westman and I climbed the formation between Yasoo and East Face of Watkins. Was a very long route. Red is the line, black are the belays and blue is unroped scrambling/hiking. Anyone knows what is the formation called?
We turned the corner to the left because there were sweet cracks there that I scoped climbing Golden Dawn and a new route next to Golden Dawn. Cool area.
BUMP for a cool article/thread. Wish to have skill to give Escape From Freedom an honest go one day. One of the few established routes that inspires me to get better at slab.
|
|
shylock
Social climber
mb
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2016 - 11:05am PT
|
Bumb for more photos from v and anyone else
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
|
That's cool Vitaliy! I have spent hours looking at that buttress between Watkins and Yasoo. I looks amazing! Don't know what it's called though. You should name it. Did I understand correctly that you climbed a new route near Golden Dawn? Would you post a topo or photo overlay? I love that area and am excited to hear about anybody climbing there - especially new routes.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!