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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 12, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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anymore slabs to fix on?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
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Kelly,
> "Route found between Reefer Madness and Greasy but Groovy Route starts at the top of 1st pitch of Reefer Madness and goes pretty much straight up to the top of the 8Th pitch of Greasy but Groovy.
All bolts replaced."
> Is there a topo for this? Number of bolts per pitch maybe? Sounds wild!
This route is Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, FA by Ron Skelton, et al.
It's on my route list actually:
1690. Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, 7p, starts just L of GBG, crosses GBG on final pitch, ST
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOS.HTM
You may wonder how Ron got the bolts in.
On lead, of course. But there's a good chance it was with a 1/4" power drill -
his special setup so he could drill quickly one-handed.
The drill goes in a special sleeve/pack on his back - he just grabbed a hold with his left hand, then reaches over his shoulder and grabbed the drill! (Not to suggest that the rest is easy!)
Back in the late 80s when power drilling was believed to be legal.
Here is the photo overlay from the Arches Terrace 2007 rebolting report.
(rightmost green line, route "N")
Here are the upper pitches
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=416237&tn=40
How about you guys do it and fill in the ratings and number of bolts?
There were wet streaks on it during the summer of 2007.
Ryan and I climbed its p7 and p8 '07, and Ryan replaced the bolts on its p9 while we were eyeing a thunderstorm approaching from Half Dome.
Rodger,
Thanks for the tip on Lemon. Looks easy to approach!
Ryan,
Sure, there are plenty of slabs on the list! Hopefully not as wicked runout as your lead on Exodus to fix in 2009 - that was way rad.... I will get a list together and you can have "dibs"! :-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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May 12, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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I second Weld-Its request for Black Primo. That is such a fine route and could use it. And that's from the waaay back machine!!
How about the DNB? Seems like that one has probably already been upgraded?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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Bruce B,
"Weld_it" was trolling, or doesn't know what he is talking about.
I presume trolling, when he says "Fact".
Black Primo and Cat Dancing were fixed years ago by James Selvidge + Bernie Rivadeneyra.
DNB was fixed awhile back; it doesn't have many bolts on it anyway (except for belay anchors replacing old fixed pins).
Although there is an added Petzl Longlife just above the mantle which I would like to remove.
Check the ASCA Master List of replaced bolts I posted in the previous page:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
[Edited:] I thought Black Primo and Jigsaw were on the master list, and might have been lost in an edit, but I checked the archive and never found them on the list. So my source on that must have been something else.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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May 12, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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HA!
FACT: Weld It is almost always trolling...
I just saw his post and thought it was a rare moment of seriousness.
Thanks for the update Clint. I rarely ever check anything like a master list before I open my pie hole......
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 18, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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clint,
i have the second week of august off and will be in mammoth the entire time. if you let me know i'll take a day to drive down to the valley to replace some old bolts. i'd really like to replace stuff outta Toulumne just cuzz it'll be closer.
also, it's sad but true some rap-bolting bone head has been putting up squeeze roots at Echo and is using ASCA hangers. i can give a name through PM. be careful who you give those hangers out too!
RM
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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May 18, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Seems like the last time I did Mr. Natural the anchor bolts at the top were a bit ancient. Have those been upgraded in recent times? Cheers for all your hard work!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 18, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
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Ryan,
Sure, if we do stuff in the Meadows in August, will let you know!
Send the person's name to Greg (Barnes). Greg's email is on the ASCA site http://www.safeclimbing.org .
I have found ASCA hangers on a couple of obscure new routes before, but a few could be from old Sloan retros that somebody didn't agree with?
Dave,
Yes, the Mr. Natural anchors were replaced.
Got one when I climbed it with Jared in 2008.
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/08427.htm
Then Roger got the other one when he did all the anchors on that right side of the Apron in September 2009.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 20, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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thank's clint! i'll let greg know. my buddy waugh took a photo of (ASCA hanger spray painted with brown paint) the evidence. it's a shame that some rap-bolter would use ASCA hangers then paint the hanger and the surrounding rock. strange!
also: if your around the L.A area on a thursday then stop on bye Boulder 1 around 7pm because Cole BBQ's hot dog'z for all who show at Stoney! i have a friend who would love to meet the rebolting master mind!
RM
edit:
evidence pic of false rebolting.
here is a picture of his roots. just left of the black water line. i've climbed here since 95'. this stuff is OFF.
here is the first bolt taken from the left most route.
So, U put a bolt then spray to color over. why not spray then place it?
once again! people are putting ASCA stamped hangers on new roots. then camo painting it on the rock.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 29, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 29, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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I agree with Brokedown, would be nice to have the rap on Lemon fixed... but is it just going to get chopped again?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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Roger and I fixed 600' of rope on Saturday, scouted in the snow/rain Sunday, and fixed 1400' of rope on Monday.
We found about 90 1/4" bolts for Roger to replace in the next few weeks. Plans are in the works to fix ropes on some big routes for replacement, too.
The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Clint, Roger,
Nice start to the year's activities. I have a question for you.
Do you ever consider moving an anchor bolt, or two to make a belay anchor better. I am thinking of your photo of the anchor in the slime and also the situation where the two anchor bolts are poorly positioned (not at same height, too far apart, etc.)?
I know it is a bit of a difficult decision to make when you are doing a one-for-one bolt replacement, but it seems to me it is best to great the best anchor possible.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
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Bruce,
In 2007, I moved an anchor slightly on Friday the 13th, to move it out of a slime streak. It was also very low to the stance.
Later I noticed that the slime streak got wider and narrower over the course of the day!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
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Hourglass Right - one original looking quarter incher above the tree belay at start of P3. Very fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to approach it. I would not bet on that thing holding a fall, though le_bruce had more confidence in it.
One item for discussion... maybe put in a new 2-bolt anchor at or a little below the tree, to help keep the tree alive. Or maybe turn that bolt above the tree belay into part of a new anchor. If the approach hike was shorter, the belay tree would probably be gone already. As it is now, it is a little sketchy hanging out there, and mandatory climbing through the tree to pass it.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Another vote for Piece de Resistance, but then since Vern Clevenger and I did the FA, I might be biased. Sure seemed like a great line and route, though I did get reports back in years after FA indicating crux pitch was not as high quality rock as I remembered, and maybe closer to 5.12 than our rating of 5.11. I'd be interested in your appraisal of the rock quality of the headwall pitch if you do it.
Not sure of the rebolting status of other Fairview Dome classics, maybe you could post. Thanks for all your good work.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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This one is quick & easy single pitch and not in the league of the other routes mentioned here, but the anchor on top of Babble On (at Pat & Jack) is a really sad looking tree that's going to pull out some day. See the comments @ MP (http://mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105990395); - most others have felt the same fear. Would be nice to put a couple of rappel bolts there... (the only alternative is to use the anchors from Boneheads, but sometimes two different parties do these two routes, and it's quite a bit to the side). Would be happy to help, etc. feel free to email me.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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le_bruce,
I have seen photos of that bolt on Hourglass Right Side, and it appears to be outdated by cams? (and on a strange side of the crack). Replacement would be a judgement call.
As for an anchor to bypass a tree, we only replace existing bolts with ASCA bolts. Sometimes if an existing fixed anchor (fixed pitons) is unsafe, we might replace it with our own bolts and hangers.
So we have a somewhat narrow objective - replacement of existing bolts, usually as defined by an accurate guidebook topo (and sometimes with more research).
We don't try to add fixed anchors or substitute bolts for trees.
We often subtract extra bolts at belays (i.e. when there are more than 2) and sometimes protection bolts obviously added (such as when Angel's Approach p1 went from 4 bolts on the topo to about 11, with the added bolts all the same type of hanger and about 2' above existing bolts...).
Those things might or might not be good ideas in terms of public service or preservation of shared climbing experiences, depending on the circumstances.
But we try to avoid these things, as they are controversial and not central to our mission.
pvalchev,
For Babble On, I agree with the comments on mp to use the bolt anchor on Showtime/Boneheads instead of the tree (although someone else may be using it).
Maybe contact Ed and suggest a change to the route description on mp?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 04:04am PT
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> The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.
I fixed it on June 19. I hope it lasts. It seems that somebody does not want an anchor there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 04:07am PT
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Midnight Rambler (just left of Lunatic Fringe) - all 3 bolts replaced by Roger and I.
Thanks to my friend Ian Post for leading Lunatic Fringe, for the setup.
Roger also replaced all the bolts on Duck and Cover, further left.
I don't think it will see many leads, due to the fragile flake.
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