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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
kristyle
climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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I'm brand new to Supertopo...so hi everyone.
Two friends and I are going up to Yosemite Valley this week to climb routes in honor of our good friend Zachary Parke who loved that place and recently passed away (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1524505/fair-winds-squatch-zach. It'll be our first time climbing routes in the Valley, and though we lack trad gear, we are really psyched and determined to get in some good climbing and make him proud.
I imagine there are existing threads asking for this kind of info, I just didn't have much luck searching for them. I'll be picking up the 'Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes' guide book this evening, but it always helps to have recommendations to help sift through all the options. We're specifically looking for good easy to moderate (up to .10d) sport climbs.
Thanks a bunch!
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Jun 13, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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Sorry about your friend Kris. I can't help but I'll bet the big heart of supertopo will show up and have plenty of ideas for you. Nice way to tribute a friend, have fun for him. Tim
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jun 13, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Spend some time in the Church Bowl. Lot's of fun stuff nearby. It's easy to climb a bunch of moderates in an afternoon there.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jun 13, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
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Pick up a set of stoppers and 3-4 medium sized cams and head to Swan Slab or Manure Pile Buttress. Just do the first 60-80 feet of whatever looks good. You just stick the pro in the rock, yank on it to test it, then clip and go. You won't be just a sport climber any more.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 13, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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pat and jack - bunch of good stuff there, lots of bolts to clip.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Kristyle, I would say that your best bet would be Pat and Jacks. There is some mellow stuff on the right side to start on, and then if you feel good move left and take a run on Knuckleheads or Skinheads. Dan and Jerry's playground is also pretty good but devoid of any climbs less than 5.10. I remember "Just Do Me" being very fun. There are a few climbs that you guys might be interested in at Five and Dime.
Personally I would take Spider's advice and do get a few pieces of gear. Having a set of nuts and few cams would open up more possibilities with climbs that require a pieces or two of gear. I'm sure someone around the edge would let you borrow. I've got a some extra stuff if you need it, but I am leaving town Wednesday morning.
Have fun and climb all the f$#cking walls!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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If it's not too hot, you could visit Parkline Slab and find a good handful of fun, moderate pitches. Climbing at Parkline doesn't give you the majesty of the Valley, though...
Aside from that, Mucci's got it with P&J's.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:14am PT
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Taft Point. WBraun:
Go down there and look/feel over the edge and you'll see the anchor bolts.
Rap down and sport climb back up.
Take your pick of which route you want to do.
They're all the same, climb up clip some bolt and then climb up some more, keep repeating until you're done .....
Don't-cha just hate my beta .....
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kristyle
climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Learning to place gear is happening this summer...maybe it begins on this trip.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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Learning to place gear is happening this summer...maybe it begins on this trip.
I think that's a good idea. Spider's recommended rack, plus a few runners, should get you started well. Otherwise, I would agree with the Pat & Jack fans and, of course, the ST Sport and Toprope guide.
John
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:22pm PT
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I know you said "up to 10d" but you're sooooo close : )
Church Bowl has Sport..
Pole Position 10a
Tammy Fae 10c
Energizer 11b
Bitches Terror 11a
Master Of Cylinders 11a
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jahil
Social climber
Does this rock make my ass look fat?
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
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Hi Kristyle
Some mutual friends from PE will be in the valley later this week, and you are sure to bump into some more when you get there. Check in with Mark and Myjah as I know they are going. If nothing else they can show you where stuff is, half the time for me at least its finding stuff, rather than climbing it thats the hard part. If you see me before you go, you are more than welcome to borrow my rack - just don't die using it :)
steve
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ian manger
climber
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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ditto Dan and Jerry's. the ratings are pretty darn soft w/ one of the shortest approaches in the Valley.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
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If you go to the Cookie Sheet you better know what Poison Oak looks like!
If you don't then you'll know what its effects look like on you :-)
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2Tru
Sport climber
UK
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Aug 23, 2011 - 10:14am PT
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I'm a Brit heading to Yosemite in September as part of 3 week road trip. I mainly sport climb and boulder but feel it would be a bit of a crime to come to the valley and only clip bolts.
I have a basic trad rack including a set of BD nuts 1-13, friends 1-3, 2 hexes, 3x slings and 3x carabiners.
Most of my trad climbing has been on the short gritstone routes in the Peak District but have done a couple of multipitch climbs in Wales. I have never climbed on granite before and have limited crack climbing experience, also my partner is a strong gym climber with little to no outdoor experience. I climb up to 5:11 sport and around 5:7 trad.
Where can I climb in Yosemite without killing myself. Is it likely I could meet up with a Yosemite hero to lead me up some interesting stuff.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Cheers.
Rob.
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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