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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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Anchorite bump!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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May 21, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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Thanks for posting this up!
I am heading to Dresden in August for two or three days as part of a week long trip to Germany.
Have most of my knot rack together, and getting stoked!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 21, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
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Jealous. Tried to go before the fall of the Soviet Union and after adventures in the East German consulates in Iceland and Norway we decided it was just too much hassle. So similar to SoIll climbing I still regret not making it over there - may have to make another go of it sometime even if I'm old now.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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May 21, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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I'm sure you'd do fine!
I remember reading a TR in Rock & Ice years ago on the Czech side...at one point, one of the guides took off his shoe, rolled it up and wrapped it and a sling in duct tape for a large placement lol. I remember thinking that those guys were nuts and there was no way in hell I would ever climb like that.
Then I went to Germany last year, and I was in the climbing shop in Mainz, and the guy there showed me a guidebook with pictures in it of sandstone towers by the hundreds rising up out of the forest....pretty much all she wrote at that point, I knew I had to at least go once haha.
I still would love to climb at Stanage Edge too, but that will have to wait for a while. We get to travel once a year, and next year we are debating either Nepal or Thailand.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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BUMP!
So Steve doesn't have to.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 23, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Alex Honnold ist eine kommunistche Sympathisanten.
I read about these pre-Commie era herren geclimben zie limestone tauren in the day. I allowed they were crazy to risk such long falls, but the truth is, I envied their free and easy appearing manner as portrayed in a couple old magazine articles I read.
First thing that appealed to me about limestone craggin like this? It's steep enough that the falls are not going to abrade the skin like on a slab, and THERE AIN'T ANY LEDGES! To speak of. I thought, no ankle breakers. Then./Now. All I hear in this video are references to leg-breaking! WTF but you need to try it to judge it, the proof is in the pudding, and experience is the best teacher. Can't go totally by say so.
Roper, lucky so and so.
We used to go play Tyrolean Traverse on the Rostrum Notch. Rather than use a piton or chock I used knotted runners (ring bends not grapevines) to secure the Rostrum side of the rope.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 23, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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Awesome!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Bump. Too good to miss.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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Always a good thread to bump.
Climbing in the Elb is a super unique experience, for sure. We got rained out for part of our trip, but Berndt Arnold more then made up for it by inviting us out to climb our last day there. So amazing to watch him climb, and the views in the area are spectacular.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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What Marlow said!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Killer knots! Thanks for posting the modern rack shot!
Did you have a chance to visit a local climbing shop to buy them already tied and shrunk or did you have to do it yourself?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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You could've designed your own Vegas-style spatel.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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I built them all myself, and took them over. The local climbing shop in the area is Bergsport Arnold, that's Berndt's place. I got the spatel there and the "fuzzy sling" - they don't sell those in the States.
You can buy a rack there for about the same cost as in the States, with the exception of the monkey's fists - they are kinda pricey.
Mouse, that cracked me up :D cool idea for my next trip haha.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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How much for that Baby Head in the window?!? LOL
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Ya, der Kinderkopf ist gut! Haha. Cracked me up when I saw the name for those the first time. The fusselschlinger - fuzzy sling - is also a trip - you use it to sling barely positive features. And it works.
What's amazing is how well the knots actually place - once I got the lowdown on how to set them, I was pretty confident with them. I wasn't taking any falls to test them out though!
Just for kicks, here is another shot from the same trip - climbing a Nazi bunker in the middle of Berlin. Once in a lifetime opportunity for sure.
My ride for the last trip - had a governor on it and only did 125 :(
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Travis looks like one of every three Deutschers in Deutschland.
Except Berndt Arnold. Or Alex Honnold if he were Deutsch.
But he played Deutsch and so did Henry Flat-Hat Barber, back when the West and East Germans liked each other enough to build a fence.
Those days are gone. Czechs and Poles and Italians and Americans and maybe even some Japanese have had the opportunity to work out on these marvelous hunky rocks.
Let us proceed. This if for anyone who thinks he's a decent face climber.
These all came out of a Mountain Magazine and if they've been posted here before, auch verdammt schlecte!
they've hung on my wall a while, there's tape residue, and they may be slightly out of pagination. Again, AVS!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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like
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 02:59am PT
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Ich nin froh, Ihnen gefallt, Munge!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/Germany/
More old Mountain mag. photos from their beta gallery.
It helps to know the area is known as der Pfalz. "Paltz" won't get you anyplace in a search. It's known for boulders, like that Frenchy place near Versailles.
Oakdale?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 03:02am PT
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Elbsandstein ist sehr cool!
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