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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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Sorry for that bad poetry.
I'm off now for a hydrobionomy session.
Ever heard of it? Very soft touch
massage that is supposed to trigger
or activate the body's natural healing
powers... The first time I went,
I almost laughed. It was so light
I couldn't imagine it could do anything,
and then the next day I was so sore
I could hardly move (I know, "You
don't have to get sore about it.")
The lady doing it is the mother of
one of my karate students and just
wanted to give back... I took her up
on it... This will be my fifth or
sixth session...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 01:48am PT
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One of the best so far. She is great.
Tomorrow I will step onto the rock
for a few minutes, just to see what
it feels like. I haven't climbed
since that fall I took in the film...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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I was almost sure that report of
my going "climbing" would have
caused a few minor heart attacks.
I guess no one cares anymore...
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plund
Social climber
OD, MN
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Thanks a lot for "Disciples", Pat- it's a great addition to an already-admirable body of work. The Gill & Holloway footage is awe-inpiring, at least to a fat wannabe.....
Only one comment about the Ament climbing footage -- OUCH!!!
If you could post purchase info for the second installment, I'll be all over it!
Thanks again, and keep plugging away!
PS - how did the recent post-treatment climbing go for you?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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I'm going out in an hour. Actually
the reason is that this photographer
wants to do a photo shoot of me.
I keep telling him I've lost
whatever photogenic quality I ever had,
and maybe only with a long shot,
maybe fifty yards away could he get
anything that might look real...
The hydrobionomy was great,
and the climbing (in an hour)
will be more like some trivial
bouldering for about an hour...
Everyone has seen in the film
that I am a major has-been...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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glad yr getting out. i dont think anyone
expects you to crush v12. but i hope to still have
some kind of climbing practice however long i make it.
actually, that's why fontainebleau remains the healthiest
bouldering scene ive ever witnessed. stacks of folks from
eight to eighties out in the woods and on the stone.
we're really just now trying to make that transition
in the us, from a culture in which sports were for
young people, hobbies to be given up once you hit
middle age. the traditional exceptions were field sports
like hunting and fishing.
at the moment, bouldering is the most grommet-oriented
subculture in north america. there were so few serious boulderers
in the gill-to-ament generations that it's a novelty for the
groms to see someone in their 60s or 70s on the boulders.
i wish i had the dough and time to spend a year or two in 'bleau
on a documentary both of the early history and also of the
social history of the place and all those sort of nameless bleausards
who continue to climb way past retirement age, almost none of them
household names or ever even sponsored athletes.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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Nice visit with Ryan Day Thompson,
photographer... good spirit...
Although that was a bit strange. I mean, I
bouldered a couple of feet above ground
but was a little reluctant... still
envision myself flying down the wall
(i.e., in the film)... don't trust the holds
to stay on... He got some good photos,
he says, and I hope he did... Think I'll just
stay retired...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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Bump it or dump it...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I bouldered a couple of feet above ground
you say that like it's a bad thing.
that's where i live these days. nice movement is nice movement.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Thanks for the vote of confidence/and/or encouragement,
Kerwin. The older I get, the smaller the climbs... it seems.
I'm down now to about three feet. I did pull up just a little
on those holds that disintegrated on me in the movie, but
frankly that was too freaky... to go back to where I met
my demise, of sort...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Pat, glad you're getting out - it's the desire and intent that matter, not the result. But don't get hurt again, eh?
at the moment, bouldering is the most grommet-oriented subculture in north america.
And Kerwin, being a historian who has likely read his Samuel Eliot Morison, likely even knows what a gromet is. Gromet being the correct spelling - a grommet is a gadget that is used on fabric to make an attachment point.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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I wouldn't call it "getting out." A quick
glimpse at the rock, then ran away in terror...
with Ryan taking shots of my retreating
backside...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Gromet being the correct spelling - a grommet is a gadget that is used on fabric to make an attachment point.
Yeah, canvas tarps (like sails) used to have grommets. Although the spelling then was "grommet," possibly an Americanization or maybe just regular typos in the OI literature.
I have no idea how "grommet" became part of the vernacular or where. Presumably surfing, since mx and climbing in SoCal seemed to copy surfer culture as closely as possible.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A gromet is a ship's boy on a sailing vessel. Not sure what the derivation is, but it's a term that has somewhat fallen into disuse over the last 150 years.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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A gromet is a ship's boy on a sailing vessel. Not sure what the derivation is, but it's a term that has somewhat fallen into disuse over the last 150 years.
heh
btw, OED also uses two "m"s:
http://www.oed.com/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/82010
apparently from the 15thc french, "grommette." Maybe someone else has the time to chase that down through the etymological dictionaries.
this is some serious thread drift, but maybe it'll sell some merch.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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I have to confess I have no idea
what you two are talking about.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Don't mind us. We're cheerfully bumping your thread, while discussing arcane maritime terminology. Kerwin started it, when he said that "bouldering is the most grommet-oriented subculture in north america".
Morison says that Columbus' log spelt it "grumetes", but that the equivalent in Elizabethan English was "gromet", usually meaning ship's boys or apprentice seamen. There were ten gromets on Santa Maria, eight on Pinta, and six on Nina. As Morison was a rather well-respected historian, he can spell it however he wanted.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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pat, "grommet" is jargon for "kid." anders was explaining where the word came from.
one of the cool things about yr gill movie is that bouldering now is so dominated by pre-teen and teenage boys, that many American climbers have a tough time thinking of adults participating in it at all. really good for audiences in the US to see multiple generations of bouldering.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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All right, thanks. That makes sense, and I
appreciate it.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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Both of my shoulders hurt like heck, since that tiny
little bouldering escapade, and I am sore all over...
in part because of the orthobionomy probably...
My day in the sun feels like some tiny flash of light
in a carabiner some instant of some warm afternoon
a whole lot of decades ago...
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