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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 28, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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Shield Bump!
Thor
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 31, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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The location is fully awesome, the actually climbing, unfortunately, grotesque.
When I did it with John Fine recently we placed 8 hammered pieces and 4 of those were tapped only once. The route did have a far amount of fixed gear it in but it was fair less fixed than I was expecting.
I'm not a badass, brave to the bone clean aid climber but all in all, we certainly climbed no C4, mostly easy C3. Offset cam were the ticket with probably 85% of all placements. Beaks as hooks in scars was the next best bet. The were usually quite bomber hand placed and with one tap, they were piece of mind.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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A nice clean Shield bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Charlie Porter Bump...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 20, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Classic Valley History BUMP!
BTW, ec doesn't make stuff up Toker.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
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Bump for All Time Greatness.
Charlie and Gary snagged the Captain's best wrinkle.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
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Tasty Porter Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Hammerless bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Hatchethead Bump...
Anyone have a photo of these rare bits of Porterware?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 10:16am PT
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Sad that folks just keep pounding on this proud route.
Have a little pride and leave the hammer on the ground folks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2016 - 07:03am PT
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The Chief took a giant fall like the one mentioned, in June of '83. Ripped the groove from like halfway, later he was unable to untie the know and had to cut it with a knife. We were two parties behind. He told me the details while we walked down from the Ashram, after the Brutus memorial.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 18, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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Wasn't that Troy Johnson who took that huge ripper on the groove pitch and couldn't untie the knot.
Troy told me what happened about the knot and couldn't believe it.
Then he showed me the knot he had cut off from his harness.
That knot was welded so tight ......
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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I thought the Chief said he fell, but maybe he meant he was a member of the team (?)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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I recall that it was Troy too. See Kurt Smith's post upthread.
Funny thing about the Groove is that it isn't really a RURP-sized crack.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2017 - 11:28am PT
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The guru is the Groove...bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2018 - 07:54pm PT
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Bump for Yerian dreams...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 10:53am PT
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I had the pleasure of meeting Gary at the Bridwell memorial and look forward to interviewing him sometime soon. Lots of Wall Men at that gathering!
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