Fixed draws on sport routes ???

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
robman

climber
SLC
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 17, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
First off I would like to say that I appreciate the fact that people donate there time and $$$ to put up and equip routes.

My question is; once some one has donated fixed draws on a sport route (routes) who’s responsibility is it to maintain said fixed gear, i.e.; replacing worn beaners and worn nylon connection points?
My prospective is that it is a community effort. I would do the work but I don’t have the needed gear nor do I have the $$$ to acquire needed gear.

But what if no one steeps up? And said gear goes un-maintained then has become a safety issue? Deeply grooved beaners and torn webbing etc?

I’m just about ready to strip that crap and through in a sack at the base of the route.

Let’s here it!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Sep 17, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
If its become a possible hazard, seems like a community service to strip it.
pc

climber
Sep 17, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
It should be the gym owner's responsibility. 'cause that's the only place you should be finding fixed draws.
jstan

climber
Sep 17, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
We also very desperately need to have a whisk broom attached to all critical holds. If no one is going to keep them all brushed clean we at least should have a broom provided. I would suggest the following specification.

Sends terminated when a hold two grades harder than the neighboring holds has ten or more particles with diameter greater than 100µm shall be considered successful.

An NPS inspector shall be present and responsible for the testing and the quality inspector from Outside Magazine shall be responsible for reviewing the data and certifying the successful send.

When two or more holds on a climb have failed this test twice within any period of 10 days the climb shall be subject to cause and corrective action followed by a period of 6 months during which the holds on that climb shall be subject to Group C examination.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 17, 2010 - 08:57pm PT
yeah, who are these pussy faggots* that clean holds at the gym?

i just want to smack those dweeds upside the knoggin,

they are a disgrace to the rock limbing community,

* pussy faggot phrase used with permission from jim bridwell

jogill

climber
Colorado
Sep 17, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
Forget about that stuff and use a top rope.
tonesfrommars

Trad climber
California
Sep 17, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
take down the draws and just hang a little bell from each bolt.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Sep 18, 2010 - 12:30am PT
John, I find that a little urine goes a long ways for cleaning holds. Just acidic enough to work with the base of the chalk. Does not leave any sticky residual crap behind. Just a spritz is needed and easy to apply as you rap down the route.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 18, 2010 - 12:33am PT
more than a few, strip em
robman

climber
SLC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2010 - 11:25am PT
I'm thinkin stripin them, pissing on the holds to clean them and then attaching a broom for cleaning o-yeah and a little piece of carpet at the base...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 19, 2010 - 11:33am PT
They make great handholds.
robman

climber
SLC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Wes,
you are dead on, the condition of the stuff is like you say.The crag is the Minimum wall.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Sep 20, 2010 - 08:13am PT
Full story:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13270


Photos:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13271&start=45


Scary stuff. Recycle/replace/repair...but watch those knifey biners whatever you do...do it rite with steel if you can....
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Sep 20, 2010 - 08:46am PT
Thanks for the links 426.

If you must, use chain with a SS carabiner, and camo the rig to the rocks color.
robman

climber
SLC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
Thanks for the link 426,
I have heard of this sort of thing but have to see it happen (thank goodness)
Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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